Setting the pole (1 Viewer)

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4311wade

SatelliteGuys Family
Jul 25, 2021
36
19
Charleston West Virginia
Team,
The steel for my C band satellite dishes main 3 1/2 inch ID pole will be delivered tomorrow. When setting in concrete Should the mast be installed perfectly plum or should it favor the Opposite side of the load from the polar mount and dish Slightly?
thanks,
 
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RimaNTSS

SatelliteGuys Pro
Aug 9, 2013
850
887
Riga
Should the mast be installed perfectly plum or......
Sure, it is better to concrete it plumb. But, unfortunately, when you hang the antenna on the plumbness will, most likely, be gone. So, I would say, it is much better to have possibility to adjust the plumbness of the pole after concrete is cured.
 
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stecle

SatelliteGuys Pro
Feb 17, 2010
240
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Between the North and South Pole
Team,
The steel for my C band satellite dishes main 3 1/2 inch ID pole will be delivered tomorrow. When setting in concrete Should the mast be installed perfectly plum or should it favor the Opposite side of the load from the polar mount and dish Slightly?
thanks,
If your pipe is moving when you install the dish, you aren't using the correct pipe or enough concrete. The pipe should be schedule 40.
 

Comptech

SatelliteGuys Pro
Jun 26, 2006
3,006
2,227
Travelers Rest SC
Set it plumb and deep. As said schedule 40 pipe will not move on a good base. Have a way to tie it off to make sure it stays plumb. Rope to trees, anything that will hold it in place. Also what I find works here in hard clay is to go in with hand tools and mushroom the bottom of the hole out
 
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4311wade

SatelliteGuys Family
Jul 25, 2021
36
19
Charleston West Virginia
Make your concrete soupy, and let it cure for a week. If you really want stability, make a batch of extra soupy and pour it down the pipe.
Thanks,
I was concerning putting two 2 inch holes in the pipe one at one foot off the bottom of the hole and one at two feet off the bottom of the hole so the concrete can flow into the pipe.
 

primestar31

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Mar 15, 2005
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Thanks,
I was concerning putting two 2 inch holes in the pipe one at one foot off the bottom of the hole and one at two feet off the bottom of the hole so the concrete can flow into the pipe.
NO, do not do it that way!

Drill a hole about 1ft up from the bottom, place a long bolt or all-thread all the way through, that hangs out a few inches on each side. Once the cement sets up, that keeps the pole from possibly spinning in the cement due to extreme wind load.

Here's what I did on my last dish install, in 2018, quote from an older post:

Last year I put up a 7.5ft SAMI dish. I used an 11' pole, 4 feet in the ground, 18" hole at top of ground, oval cut on one side, and belled out at the bottom. 1 bag of gravel leveled in the bottom for ground water drainage, and a heavy metal plate in the center that the pole sits on before pouring cement (so it can't sink) I used 980 POUNDS of cement. I mixed it, and did this all by hand, AND I had a broken rib at the time!
You can read my thread (further in for C-band install as I wasn't sure if my new property could work for satellite reception) for ideas if you like. I installed my first C-band dish in 1984, and this one is my 6th C-band dish install from 1984 - 2018. I'll take "Name that satellite" for $500 please! HELP!
 

4311wade

SatelliteGuys Family
Jul 25, 2021
36
19
Charleston West Virginia
NO, do not do it that way!

Drill a hole about 1ft up from the bottom, place a long bolt or all-thread all the way through, that hangs out a few inches on each side. Once the cement sets up, that keeps the pole from possibly spinning in the cement due to extreme wind load.

Here's what I did on my last dish install, in 2018, quote from an older post:
Thank you for sharing
 
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armadillo_115

SatelliteGuys Pro
Jun 10, 2015
1,279
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Virginia
Make your concrete soupy, and let it cure for a week. If you really want stability, make a batch of extra soupy and pour it down the pipe.
'Soupy' concrete cures weaker than concrete with less water added.

Vibrating or tapping around the pipe with a hammer will remove voids and air pockets. ;)
 

primestar31

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Mar 15, 2005
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Make your concrete soupy, and let it cure for a week. If you really want stability, make a batch of extra soupy and pour it down the pipe.

'Soupy' concrete cures weaker than concrete with less water added.

Vibrating or tapping around the pipe with a hammer will remove voids and air pockets. ;)

'dillo is correct. Do NOT make the concrete "soupy". Look at the side of the bag, and use the bare minimum water you need to mix it up and just wet it all. For instance, when I mixed my 80lb bags, I used a hair over 1 gallon of water. That's IT. That's all you need, a maximum of 1-1/4 gallons of water per 80lb bag. Anymore, and you'll compromise the concrete.

After setting and staking the pole completely level and filling the hole slowly around all sides with concrete, you let it dry for a minimum of 5 -7 days before mounting the dish on the pole. Round the top of the concrete slightly higher than ground surface, so rains runs off it and doesn't pool at the pole. I cover the top of the concrete with the empty bags, and soak them damply during the week of curing. You don't want it all to dry too fast.
 

RimaNTSS

SatelliteGuys Pro
Aug 9, 2013
850
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Riga
I will post pictures as the project moves forward.
Yes, pictures are much appreciated.
More than 5 years ago, I made this base for an antenna. It was a deep hole poured with almost 1 ton of concrete. After curing, I used anchor-bolts to attach a piece of thick-walled 140mm OD pipe with 6 welded nuts on it. Now it is possible to install and adjust plumbness of any pipe up to 100mm OD. In addition, I do not have obstacles when moving the grass around. :)
 

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JFOK

SatelliteGuys Pro
Aug 12, 2012
932
674
Cape Cod - MA.
Hi all,

For better or worse, I’ve always installed my poles on a tripod base. This would allow me to compensate for possible shifts in the ground or concrete base itself and then allow for easier adjustments back to “plumb.”
Never had an issue in the 30 years I‘ve followed this practice.

John
 

4311wade

SatelliteGuys Family
Jul 25, 2021
36
19
Charleston West Virginia
Thank you all for your input.
I will post pictures as the project moves forward.
Yes, pictures are much appreciated.
More than 5 years ago, I made this base for an antenna. It was a deep hole poured with almost 1 ton of concrete. After curing, I used anchor-bolts to attach a piece of thick-walled 140mm OD pipe with 6 welded nuts on it. Now it is possible to install and adjust plumbness of any pipe up to 100mm OD. In addition, I do not have obstacles when moving the grass around. :)
3 1/2 inch ID schedule 40 mast with 4 inch by 4 inch fins welded in place painted with oil base Rustoleum.
 

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