Setting the pole

Living in the north country where winter frost depth and side pressure creates potential leveling issues, my preference was for setting 3 or 4 all-thread legs in the concrete with a triangular or square steel plate welded to the bottom of the pole that fit on the legs for easy re-leveling over the years as needed.

I even used the leveling plate concept to fix a fellow's concrete embedded c-band pole that had shifted over time. I cut the pole off a couple of feet from the ground and then welded matching triangular plates with matching holes at the three corners to each part of the pole. All that was left was to adjust the bolts and nuts at each corner to level the pole and reinstall the dish.
 
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Team,
When setting a mast for an 8 foot C band dish how much rear clearance do I need if setting in front of a structure?
That all depends on how the structure is laid out on the property, and how that corresponds to YOUR particular satellite receivable arc "look angle". You'll need to measure, and calculate for yourself what that minimum distance will be for sure.

Let's say that a perpendicular line going out from the center of that building line faces directly your "True South", and that's where you want to install your dish. To be able to allow the polar mount to swing the dish from it's furthest East and furthest West and not hit the side of the wall with an 8ft dish, you'd need about a bare minimum of 5 feet clearance OUT from the building. That's just for the dish to clear and not hit the wall, though I'd recommend you give it a bit more distance than that, especially if you use a linear actuator that's longer than 24".
 
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3 1/2 inch ID schedule 40 mast with 4 inch by 4 inch fins welded in place painted with oil base Rustoleum.
Moving forward with setting the mast.
 

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