Trying to solve the mystery of which Wireless Access Point device to pair with my Comcast SMC Modem/

BobMurdoch

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Sep 12, 2003
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Brielle, NJ
OK, so after two hours of trying to solve this myself, I'm putting the question up to my fellow dishheads as I am at a loss to find an easy solution.

I work in a small office that has 9 computers tied into a server (and no IT guy on staff, but I wind up getting the job as no one knows half as much about computers as I do around here). We then have a DLink Bridge (I'm assuming I am calling that device by it's proper name - I can connect 24 lines into this ), that then feeds all that traffic into a Comcast SMC branded Modem/Router (4 LAN ports on the back, not 1, so I realize this is a router and not just a modem). I used to have problems trying to plug another router into the back of it (we kept the router when we upgraded from DSL 2 years ago, but then got rid of it when it kept killing our internet connection, and we realized the Comcast Modem had a router built in - which was not teh case with the Verizon DSL Modem it replaced), so we ditched and just stuck with wired connections, which have been working great with good speeds.

However, we now have 4 IPhones and 2 IPads in use and want to add WiFi capability to the network as our building blocks the 3G signal from coming into the building easily. We have the AT&T Microcell which we got for free a year ago to boost the cellphone reception, but I want to avoid using the 3G connection for the I-Phone/Pads as the data caps make life difficult for those of us who like to stream video or use other data intensive apps.

I've figured out that I want just a Wireless Access Point type device to plug into a spare Cat5 receptacle we have in one of the offices that is centrally located (or I can plug one into the router directly if that is better, but then the signal probably won't travel to the other end of the building as efficiently without a repeater). I keep reading that certain WAPs don't play well with the Comcast SMC Modem/Router, so I am wondering if someone in a similar situation has had any luck with any particular model vs. another. I realize I can configure a router to mimic a WAP, but I figured the cost and plug and play aspect would nudge me to get a dedicated device.

Any suggestions? I'm normally pretty savvy with technology items, but networking computers and devices makes my eyes glaze over..... I normally outsource something like this to a consultant we use, but was trying to solve this one on my own.
 
However, we now have 4 IPhones and 2 IPads in use and want to add WiFi capability to the network as our building blocks the 3G signal from coming into the building easily. We have the AT&T Microcell which we got for free a year ago to boost the cellphone reception, but I want to avoid using the 3G connection for the I-Phone/Pads as the data caps make life difficult for those of us who like to stream video or use other data intensive apps.

I didn't think you usage with the microcell counted toward your minutes or data plan.
 
Actually, it does... which is why so few got them. All you are doing is boosting your reception by somehow piggybacking things on your internet connection. It says MCell 3G on my display and my data usage levels keep going up (I watched about 20 minutes of streaming video once on it to verify). It did improve call quality and reduce dropped calls. Since we got it for free, I'm not complaining. I don't think too many paid $120 for the things though, unless they had severe issues and felt they had to.
 
My Airport Extreme works great with my Comcast service, but I use a Ubee Modem. If the SMC gives you trouble you could always swap it out for a modem at your local office.

Sent from my iPad 2 using Forum Runner
 
I didn't think you usage with the microcell counted toward your minutes or data plan.

It might not count toward your minutes, but it will count toward data. I have one at work. We got it simply to improve cell phone reception in the building for certain people.

Actually, it does... which is why so few got them. All you are doing is boosting your reception by somehow piggybacking things on your internet connection. It says MCell 3G on my display and my data usage levels keep going up (I watched about 20 minutes of streaming video once on it to verify). It did improve call quality and reduce dropped calls. Since we got it for free, I'm not complaining. I don't think too many paid $120 for the things though, unless they had severe issues and felt they had to.

If you have a wired network, you should add wireless to that. Wi-Fi is how you should handle data. So you're heading in the right direction.

Read the fine print here.

"*Wi-Fi is the optimal solution for home mobile data use, and doesn't count against your mobile data usage bucket. Visit AT&T Wi-Fi Access - Wi-Fi HotSpots - Wireless from AT&T for tips on setting up and using Wi-Fi. When using 3G data services through your 3G MicroCell instead of Wi-Fi, standard data rates apply."


And BTW, I think that D-Link "bridge" you have is actually a 24 port switch.

As to WAPs: 2.4 GHz is most common, most crowded, and travels distance better. The 5 GHz band is less crowded, but generally can only be expected to go thru one wall. Distance is more limited. Many units, indeed, most units, require you to select 2.4 or 5. A few, such as the Apple Airport Extreme and a new top of the line, just as expensive D-Link model, support both simultaneously.

You don't want two DHCP servers on one network. A pure WAP solution will be easiest. How cheap do you want to go, and how much capability do you need? It might be best to just cave in early and buy the Apple. EASY to set up. I have one at home, along with my FiOS Actiontec wireless router.
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The big question on your final setup will be how secure do you want it to be? I don't know what your business is so adding a wireless access point to your network may not be a very good idea unless you are willing to have unwanted vistors potentially connecting.
 
The only real issue is finding a WAP that works reliably with iOS 5.1. I was very happy with a Trendnet WAP until my boss brought in a New iPad that wads it up tight.

Anyone that blames their router or provider is fooling themselves.

I'd recommend using a wireless router unless you want to print from the iOS devices. They don't need to be stinking up your conventional network just to get Internet access.
 
I have a password on the router, so I am fine that way, just looking to add WiFi to dodge the 3G capped data plan issues.

I was about to get an Amped AP300 model until I heard that they absolutely refuse to play nice with Comcast SMC modem/routers, so I'm looking for a Comcast user in the same boat that knows a model that works with minimal setup hassle. Net gear has severe support deficiencies, and LinkSys caused issues with the SMC modem/router previously so I was probably avoiding them for that reason (I realize the two DHCP devices were probably the cause of the problem last time..... Like I said, networking is my kryptonite...)

And yes, my 24 port device is a switch, I knew "bridge" didn't sound right.....

Thanks for any suggestions.... I'm one of those guys that drills into google search results looking to solve tech issues, but no one online seems to have posted the best prescription for this conundrum.....
 
Thanks, I'll consider going that route if I can't find a better solution, but I'm trying to keep this budget tight as times are still brutal at our construction business.
 
BobMurdoch said:
Thanks, I'll consider going that route if I can't find a better solution, but I'm trying to keep this budget tight as times are still brutal at our construction business.

Comcast will swap your router with a DOCSIS3.0 modem for free at your local office.

Sent from my iPad 2 using Forum Runner
 
Any old wireless router should work just fine. You want something that supports WPA2 at least. The one I'm using now is a Linksys WRT160N I found for five bucks at Goodwill. If you find a couple of cheap ones of different brands, set them up with different channels and SSIDs; likely if a device has trouble with one it can work with the other.

The standard way to convert a "wireless router" to a "wireless access point" is pretty simple:
- reset it to factory defaults. Usually there's a recessed button to do this.
- connect it to a standalone pc.
- login, setup the wireless parameters including security, change the router password, give it an IP address on your local network, and turn off the built in DHCP.
- plug it to the local network with one of the LAN ports.
- leave the WAN port disconnected.
 
I'm using an AirLink 101 (AP671W). It was going for around $20 on NewEgg a few weeks ago. Been working great with that crappy SMC Comcast "Business IP Gateway".
 
Sounds like we have a winner..... Any issues setting up the airlink? How is their Tech Support? I have some Netgear devices, but hear their support is atrocious, so I didn't want to use them for anything that wasn't completely plug and play.....
 
Installation was a piece of cake. Plug it in, go to the config page with your browser, and enter your security settings. Didn't need their tech support so I can't comment there.

Range seems to be decent. Although in my application I've got a brick wall not too far away from the AP. Don't need signal the other side of that wall, but I took a laptop out there just to check. Drops off quickly in that direction, which is to be expected.

Since my last post I found my receipt. It was actually a special deal at Meritline, $25. Bought some stuff at NewEgg as well and mixed up where the AirLink came from.

Good luck!
 
Found a Trendnet TEW-650AP Wireless Access Point that got hooked up without a hitch for $29 on a sale at Buy.com. Worked without a hitch. Thanks for your help everyone.
 

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