My setup for my new 722 system: TV1 is downstairs and TV2 is upstairs. The remote for TV2 only works in certain areas upstairs and makes changing channels difficult. The installer assumed that the walls of my "well built house" was causing problems with the UHF signal. He moved the TV2 antenna upstairs but the splitter caused too much of a signal loss. I've done my own experimenting and have determined that my Samsung LCD TV, TV1, is the problem. When it's turned off, the TV2 remote works perfectly. The antenna on the back of the Dish receiver is right next to this TV. So should I extend the antenna with coax so it's a couple of feet higher than the TV, get an attenuator, or is there another preferred way to do this?
TV 1 interfering with UHF antenna for TV 2
- Thread starter mikecnorthwest
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See here, though it sounds like the installer already tried the splitter trick.
http://www.satelliteguys.us/dish-network-technical-discussions/263461-722k-uhf-remote-2-problem.html
http://www.satelliteguys.us/dish-network-technical-discussions/263461-722k-uhf-remote-2-problem.html
If you loss picture quality on TV2 after installer hooked up the antenna to splitters he may of had the splitter hooked up wrong.
My understanding is that each time the signal passes through a splitter there is some signal loss. I don't think he had it hooked up wrong, I think it was just the fact that there was additional signal loss.
Many, many folks here have done it without problem. Sometimes one needs to change the modulated channel to a higher number, usually in the cable range.
Its not "some signal loss", its a minimum of -3 dB which is 50% signal loss. However, the signal output is strong enough to compensate for a typical splitter and cable loss. Just make sure you use the shortest possible good quality RG6 cable, connectors and splitter rated @ 1000 MHz. If you are going to change the channel output, select the lowest possible channel number (lowest frequency) where the cable will have lower loss.
OR ... YES.. you can just simply attach some coax to the back of the receiver's antenna port, and move the antenna up the wall or 6 foot away from your TV1 ... lets not make this complicated.. if the signal degraded using splitters then let it be with whats working ... and relocate the antenna.
BUT ... the other option, is to check to see that the modulation setting was for Home Distribution rather than "direct to tv" .. if it was set as "direct to tv" re-hook everything as it was... reset the power output to Home Distribution (Menu 6-1-5 hit connection and select "Distribution") and see if that fixes the degraded signal ..
Splitters do in fact drop on avg 3.5 db .... which if you look at them they have -3.5 on them ... because they drop 3.5db ... some are designed for specific uses ... like the amp I'm using now on my home antenna ... it came from the cable company for "boosting" signals since there were problems (long story) most of the ports on it are -3.5, one however is -7.5 and is labeled for the cable modem.
Here's a picture of a random 3-way splitter .. note -4.0 / -7.5 on the ports.
BUT ... the other option, is to check to see that the modulation setting was for Home Distribution rather than "direct to tv" .. if it was set as "direct to tv" re-hook everything as it was... reset the power output to Home Distribution (Menu 6-1-5 hit connection and select "Distribution") and see if that fixes the degraded signal ..
Splitters do in fact drop on avg 3.5 db .... which if you look at them they have -3.5 on them ... because they drop 3.5db ... some are designed for specific uses ... like the amp I'm using now on my home antenna ... it came from the cable company for "boosting" signals since there were problems (long story) most of the ports on it are -3.5, one however is -7.5 and is labeled for the cable modem.
Here's a picture of a random 3-way splitter .. note -4.0 / -7.5 on the ports.
Another possible solution for you:
Get a cheapo indoor antenna and extend the remote's UHF antenna with a length of coax to it. I bought a couple at the dollar store for about $5 each and use 'em with both my 722 & 722K. The remotes will now work outside from over 50 yards from my house on either receiver.
No, I really don't have the need to do that but it DOES work--tried it just for chuckles.
Ed
Get a cheapo indoor antenna and extend the remote's UHF antenna with a length of coax to it. I bought a couple at the dollar store for about $5 each and use 'em with both my 722 & 722K. The remotes will now work outside from over 50 yards from my house on either receiver.
No, I really don't have the need to do that but it DOES work--tried it just for chuckles.Ed
Try changing the band used by the TV2 remote:
http://www.satelliteguys.us/dish-network-forum/199877-any-way-get-more-range-ir.html#post2076800
http://www.satelliteguys.us/dish-network-forum/199877-any-way-get-more-range-ir.html#post2076800
Well I extended the antenna using coax so it's about 5 feet away from the TV and higher than the TV. Reception is better but still spotty. I'll try to switch the remote to B when I get home from work.
I would wonder why type of connection is going to TV2 from the sat receiver if the TV is interferring with it. Sounds like a bad ground on this cable at the connector or very cheap rg59 with virtually no shield, only a ground tracer.
I thought that the issue was that the signal from the UHF remote wasn't making it to the sat receiver when TV1 was powered up, not that there was any problem with the video going to TV2 (or TV1 for that matter).
I have a 625, not 722, but it sounds similar to the problems we had. At install, the TV2 antenna was directly connected to the back of the DVR. TV2 is actually located two rooms away. It was very hard to change channels. I then added a few feet of coax to the antenna, but it was still not much better. Finally, I ran 50 feet of coax through the basement and put the antenna right behind TV2. This setup has worked great for the last few years.
I opened my remote and there is no A/B switch. The only switch is UHF/IR. The remote is a 21.0 IR/UHF Pro. The only other thing to try is the attenuator unless someone can think of something else.
That is correct. A/B band is chosen with the remote address numbers. Odd numbers=A, Even numbers =B.
Because you must be using the older generation 6.3 remote that is switch controlled. The 21.0 works differently, as I explained.
So the instructions I read to change A/B involved the switch in the battery compartment... can you help me with how to make the change using the remote?
I have found on several occasions that the CLF's coming from flat panel screens can cause erratic remote function or complete loss of remote functions. This usually affects IR remotes but anything is possible. Make sure your TV is not in energy saving mode. Usually, the brighter the screen the less likely it is for the screen to interfere with the remote. But like the others advised, sometimes changing the modulated channel can help. Usually the 2-set coupler and antenna move to TV2 location works great. However, some 2-set couplers have a coil across the connections. This is found by putting a resistance meter to the center conductors of any two of the f-connectors. It will check a closed connection. I have had better luck with the 2-set couplers that do not have closed continuity across the f-connectors.
Page 72-73, 722K user's guide (assuming you have the K since you have the 21.0).
