Using a coolsat7000

[bootstrapbill]

Moving along to more questions...I am using a coolsat 7000 (recently donated to me cheap). No manual. I noticed that some things, like recmnd freq settings, are not there. Skips over what is recommended to higher or lower. Is the CS going to do the job, or should I go for something different? Will it work well using USALS if I ever get the motor on the dish?
Looking at coolsat site, I see fac. files...Do I need the newest of what is listed, and that's it?
I'm also thinking I need to get myself a signal meter of some kind to make this a little easier?
Am I going in the right direction by trying for 123w first?
I've looked over the "List" and seen the "strong tp" listings, but I think I'll be shot down on most of them because of trees during the summer.
Bear with me guys...I'll get this thing going if it kills me.

"Endeavoring to perservere"

 

[Mr Tony]

Moving along to more questions...I am using a coolsat 7000 (recently donated to me cheap). No manual. I noticed that some things, like recmnd freq settings, are not there. Skips over what is recommended to higher or lower.

WHat do you mean? Are you talking about the transponder list or the LNB LO settings?

Is the CS going to do the job, or should I go for something different? Will it work well using USALS if I ever get the motor on the dish

I thought the 7000 was like the Visionsat which I just love

Am I going in the right direction by trying for 123w first?

are you going to be motorized or a fixed dish? If motorized you want to try and lock your true south satellite which is the same longitude as where you are. As an example, I am at 93W so my true south is G26. Fixed dish you can try 123W

 

[bootstrapbill]

I'm thinking it's the transponder list, but I'll check again when my young'un gets tired of cartoons after while.
Don't know if CS is like a Visonsat , but I'll do some looking and see how they compare. I am thinking since folks use the CS 5000 and 6000 units, the 7000 will do OK. BTW, does the C following the sat # on the menu mean C band reception capable?
To begin with, I was going (currently) fixed dish, but after a cup of strong coffee, I might be as well off to go ahead and start out with the motor and get that part out of the way. I'll have to do some remounting hardware first, so allowing the rain might stop for a couple of days, that will be first.
I think I might squeak by and be able to see 93w, but that's going to be about as far south as I can go. When the leaves are gone, I'll have a little more sky. From around 110w and up is well in the clear for me at all times. I'm located at 88.38w longtitude.
I need to read (again) on setting up the motor. It's gotten sort of confusing. I'll try to get all the ducks in a row today, and be a little more specific on the recvr info.

 

[Lak7]

does the C following the sat # on the menu mean C band reception capable?

Not necessarily. To determine if a Sat is setup for C Band, look at the Transponder list, if the TPs have 4 digits - it's C Band, if there are 5 digits - it's Ku. Even if the actual Sat in the Sky has both C and Ku, the receiver needs a separate Sat setup for C and Ku.
So for AMC 1, for example, you would have AMC 1 C and AMC 1 Ku. You can name the Sats what ever you want.
A receiver's Sat list is never up to date, so you will need to edit or add what's missing.

 

[bootstrapbill]

Thanks Lak7.:up Didn't realize that the same sats could even be both C and ku.
Been out looking over the motor situation, and I'm going to have to do a little bit of fabricating, otherwise I have to go back to square one. The arm o.d. on the motor is considerably smaller than the i.d. of the mount on the superdish and discovered the stationary pole is a few degrees out of plumb.
But...the sun decided to shine.!

 

[Lak7]

Pole MUST be Plumb, don't take any shortcut there.

You may be able to split a piece of PVC to fill the gap.