Will Readjusting Clock Position of C and KU Band LNB's Improve Satellite Reception

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jsattv

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Jul 4, 2006
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I have worked for a week spending hours readjusting my Declination on my 12 Ft Mesh Dish to a position where for my location Latitude 49.92 and Longitude -97.05 the most I can decrease Declination to is 56 degrees. My Elevation is currently at 49 degrees, giving me a declination angle of 56 - 49 = 7 degrees. (The ideal or objective for my location is 57.18 - 50.57 = 6.61). There is just no way to further reduce Declination as the screw that controls the drop of the Dish is right up against one of the Ribs of the Dish see picture # 1.

My question is since I can't drop Declination anymore would repositioning the C Band and KU Band LNB's from 11 and 5 o'clock help bring in the 2 TP's I cannot receive on G 25 / 97.0W?? See Picture # 2. Or would re adjusting the F/D Ratio on the LNB placement in the middle of the Dish help? Any reply would be appreciated.
 

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No lnb position will compensate for improper declination angle.
You may have to cut that bolt off or get another eyehook from the hardware store.

I don't think it really matters at least on lnbf's which position the lnb are on just as long as they are skewed so that your horizonal and vertical is in line when your receiver calls for the proper polarity.

I have never had a corotor or servo type feedhorn, but there is probably a proper method of orientating the lnbs and feedhorn so when your skew control kicks in it sends the probel the right direction.

I would just cut the bolt to attain the declination angle you need. A reciprocating saw will do with a long blade for metal.
 
No lnb position will compensate for improper declination angle.
You may have to cut that bolt off or get another eyehook from the hardware store.

I don't think it really matters at least on lnbf's which position the lnb are on just as long as they are skewed so that your horizonal and vertical is in line when your receiver calls for the proper polarity.

I have never had a corotor or servo type feedhorn, but there is probably a proper method of orientating the lnbs and feedhorn so when your skew control kicks in it sends the probel the right direction.

I would just cut the bolt to attain the declination angle you need. A reciprocating saw will do with a long blade for metal.

Thanks a lot for the reply truckracer. I guess I could cut off the end of the Declination Bolt with a saw or grinder. The accuracy of my Magnetic Polycast Protractor / Inclometer is such that I'm not sure I can even get to the required 6.61 degrees from my current 7.00 degrees. I now have a good Inclinometer having returned 2 of them Back to the Auto Store since they were sticking a bit, I guess a Digital Inclometer would be ideal but are they made?? But after many hours of using my Analog Inclinometer this week it is nearly impossible to fine tune to get 6.61 degrees accuracy.
 
you could take the adjustment bolt loose and stick a washer or two on the backside nut, that would save you from cutting or sawing .

a board a clear plastic protractor and weighted string also make a Inclometer so if your having trouble with a store bought one.
 
I use a 99 cent plastic protractor, a piece of coat thread, and a fishing sinker for the weight.

Works great with great accuracy.

Thanks for the suggestions linuxman and gabshere. A plastic protractor sounds like a great idea especially if it will give me more accuracy for my Declination adjustment. After a detailed look today, I am missing 5 of 19 Tp's on G25 / 97.0W, & I cannot see how I can sort out 7.00 degrees from 6.61 degrees with my current $15.00 Inclinometer. Are there plans on how to construct that plastic protractor??
 
Are there plans on how to construct that plastic protractor??
I bought the protractor from Office Max. It had a hole in the middle along the straight edge already.

I got a button from my wife and a piece of coat thread. (thicker than regular thread) I then ran the thread through all 4 holes on the button so that the thread winds up in the middle of the button, tied it off and ran the other end of the thread through the hole in the protractor and let it dangle down past the curved edge. Got a fishing sinker from my son that had a crack on one side down through the middle. Wrapped it around the thread up close to the curved edge and clamped it onto the thread with a pair of pliers, cut off the extra thread, and voila!

A nice accurate tool and very inexpensive to build.
 
I will add to what Gab said and say that with a 3/4 inch nut under the 1/2 inch one you will gain about an additional 3/4 inch in adjustment.
It looks like it would then center the adjustment on the threaded rod portion.
The 3/4 inch nut is large enough in diameter to slip over the 1/2inch rod.They make very cheap spacers.
I have a digital Craftsman level that has all kinds of functions ,one of which is a digital protractor.
 
Thanks for all the suggestions guys. Not sure I follow all the Instructions re linuxmans's plastic Inclinometer. There may be just enough room to drop Inclination a couple of more threads. And I'll look into adding the 3/4 inch Nut or some washers for spacers if that doesn't work.

Gpat did you get your digital Inclinometer at Sears USA, because they are definately NOT available here in Canada??
 
My boys got it at Sears here in Fla.
Gave it to me for Fathers day.
It wasnt cheap but I use it for everything,even has a laser that will go a few hundred yards.
I have a picture of it in a previous post.
 
even if with a digital unit you may have to slightly (and ever so slightly tweak) the setting for ku on a 12 footer. I would hate to tune a 12 footer for ku band , my 10' has been a bear.
 
Yes it reads in degrees
You first must zero it out
I used the kitchen countertop and feeler gauges.
it should read the same when faced both directions.
It can do minus 90*,+90*,show difference.
probably has a few thousand features that I wont live long enough to figure out.
Since it goes down to .1*(tenths of a degree) its very repeatable.
It has a very strong magnet so I could place it on the backside of the polar mount
and watch it while adjusting.I did all the calculating and set it with the level at that
settting and only had to turn the nut about 1/2 turn to peak .I do alot of pipe bending,
which was the main reason kids got it,and its far better that my protractors for accuracy.
Also I changed my 8.5 ft ChannelMaster dish to a 10Ft Channelmaster and added the Co rotor.
After I got a good co rotor and Ku LNB(thanks George) it was a piece of cake for Ku.
 
Yes it reads in degrees
You first must zero it out
I used the kitchen countertop and feeler gauges.
it should read the same when faced both directions.
It can do minus 90*,+90*,show difference.
probably has a few thousand features that I wont live long enough to figure out.
Since it goes down to .1*(tenths of a degree) its very repeatable.
It has a very strong magnet so I could place it on the backside of the polar mount
and watch it while adjusting.I did all the calculating and set it with the level at that
settting and only had to turn the nut about 1/2 turn to peak .I do alot of pipe bending,
which was the main reason kids got it,and its far better that my protractors for accuracy.
Also I changed my 8.5 ft ChannelMaster dish to a 10Ft Channelmaster and added the Co rotor.
After I got a good co rotor and Ku LNB(thanks George) it was a piece of cake for Ku.

Thanks gpat. I think I found it on the Sears Canada web site: Craftsman / MD 10" Digital Level - $59.99 in Canada, $34.99 in USA. With the Canadian dollar almost at par with the US Dollar you have to wonder why they are almost charging double the price in Canada versus USA?? Please let me know if yours is called the MD 10.

Re setting up a 12 footer for KU and C Band, I am almost at the point of throwing in the towell. I have spent countless hours outside especially in the last 2 weeks adjusting Inclination and Declination and no good results... extremely frustrating!!
 
I just started over on my 10 footer when I got to that point. I checked my pole and made sure it was perfectly plumb. I then drove the dish to the zenith point and set the mount angle and declination again. My true south bird is amc-9. It is ku so I found a ku signal.
I tweaked a little from there but I did not have any trouble after that.

While on G10r ku band, I lifted and pushed down a little on the dish and the signal got worse. I knew I had my polar axis right from there.

I played the the focal point and F/D

I spent several hours though. My 7.5' sami mesh was a lot easier to get zero'd in.
 
Gpat, thanks a lot for the tip on the Sears Craftsman 10 inch Digital Level. I was able to find some of these units in the new tools of our local Sears store on Friday. Waited until the weekend for a $10.00 off coupon and picked it up for $50.00. I know thats expensive but it's a great level, really solidly constructed, fantastic magnet on it, great Green Digital Display, and as you mentioned more features than anyone could ever use, ie. laser level, temperature, storing features, beeper, etc, etc. I have already found out that on my Declination Angle I went too far, - it was 56.6 - 50.5 = 6.1 degrees and I need to get to 57.18 - 50.57 = 6.61 degrees, so I'll slightly tweak up the Declination angle tomorrow. Thanks again.
 
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