I stopped obsessing over it and it was the reason I had two HWS's recording the same things. Never had to worry or feel rushed. We prob record 25 things a week in peak times and watch maybe 10-15.
"HDR On" incorrectly with LG Display and Hopper 3
- Thread starter gadgtfreek
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I stopped obsessing over it and it was the reason I had two HWS's recording the same things. Never had to worry or feel rushed. We prob record 25 things a week in peak times and watch maybe 10-15.
This is weird but I got the recordings working and basically had to use another USB to SATA Converter with external power instead of the My Book itself.
Here are the three different scenarios:
1) Western Digital My Book 2TB which is a WD20EZRZ Green drive in it's enclosure with external power - the problems being that it doesn't show all recordings and play back doesn't work - this was how it was originally recorded.
2) The same WD20EZRZ drive with the ThermalTake BlacX HDD Docking Station with external power - same problems as described above
http://www.thermaltakeusa.com/products-model.aspx?id=C_00002058
3) The same WD20EZRZ drive with the Unitek Model Y-3322A USB3.0 to IDE+SATA Converter with ON/OFF Switch - works fine and shows all recordings
http://www.unitek-products.com/en/product_detail.php?id=196
So there is some type of compatibility issue between the USB to SATA converter and the H3 as #1 and #2 both work fine with the Hopper 2000 with the same EHD.
Here are the three different scenarios:
1) Western Digital My Book 2TB which is a WD20EZRZ Green drive in it's enclosure with external power - the problems being that it doesn't show all recordings and play back doesn't work - this was how it was originally recorded.
2) The same WD20EZRZ drive with the ThermalTake BlacX HDD Docking Station with external power - same problems as described above
http://www.thermaltakeusa.com/products-model.aspx?id=C_00002058
3) The same WD20EZRZ drive with the Unitek Model Y-3322A USB3.0 to IDE+SATA Converter with ON/OFF Switch - works fine and shows all recordings
http://www.unitek-products.com/en/product_detail.php?id=196
So there is some type of compatibility issue between the USB to SATA converter and the H3 as #1 and #2 both work fine with the Hopper 2000 with the same EHD.
Except you didn't hear about the bad part... While drives can be replaced when they fail or when you feel like it, if your enclosure ever dies, any drives that you used with that enclosure, you will lose the data forever on the drives that are still working as all your data is hardware encrypted and you can not get another identical enclosure to work either, read more here:
https://community.wd.com/t/wd-my-book-duo-data-forever-lost-if-drive-enclosure-dies/6496
Not the same, that's the reason I don't buy external hard drives as there are plenty of enclosures that can do the RAID without that problem. I mean what's the point of the hard drives still perfectly fine but you don't have access to the data even if you bought another My Book Duo and it still won't let you access the data. The Data Recovery companies will be happy to charge you $100 per megabyte for the data. Besides, I already experienced a similar problem with the WD My Book 2 TB not working with the Hopper 3 while taking the HDD from the enclosure and using it with a SATA to USB 3.0 converter worked fine. I also cloned the drive to a Samsung 2TB since it is a archive after all. The WD will be used normally and if that fails, I'll just plug the Samsung in and the data is still there.
The point is, I dont care. You are over thinking it more than I care too. I wanted little more reliability than just your standard my book, and I got it. Im not looking into running a server farm in my house so I wont lose a program. Its not that big a deal.
I get what you are saying, but I dont care.
I get what you are saying, but I dont care.
It's more of a FYI thing since you already bought it and using it, so not much you can do anyways. As an Astrophysicist and someone who runs and own a Internet Service Provider, I have to always overthink since last thing I want is some hardware device holding perfectly good data as hostage such as the MyBook 2TB not working with the Hopper 3 but works fine with the Hopper 2000 for playback as I've experienced that the remedy was to take the same HDD and use it with another USB to SATA Converter Bridge. Ofcourse no one cares when things are working but it's different when things don't work. In my case, I got around it because the WD was cloned from a Samsung 850Pro 2TB SSD and used the UNITEK adapter instead of the enclosure as I already knew the WD MyBook enclosure has encryption on any data that writes through it. I've already successfully cloned the Western Digital to a Samsung 2TB HDD as I am using it as a archive of the H2K's recordings and if I did use it to archive H3 recordings, I will just clone the WD to one of my many spare 2TB drives while keeping the Samsung HDD elsewhere.
I am unplugging at the Hopper, and that cable runs to a Denon AVR that is off. Secondly, if you read that thread and elsewhere, HDMI is designed for a hot swap and I have always done that.
Id rather not unplug the connection at the LG every day, its a highly pricey pc of equipment and I can get a new hopper
I am just going to cut everything off at night, unplug the hdmi at the H3, and got to bed. When we get ready to watch the next evening, I am going to plug the H3 HDMI back in and turn everything on. Id rather not have to reboot the H3 an extra time each day either so leaving the HDMI unplugged is the simple move.
My installer did satellite IIRC because the top screen drop down says Dish Network USA LLC and the LG Magic remote controls some Hopper functions.
Did you have this problem with your OLED tv & HWS.............or just since you switched to Hopper 3?
Wow what happened here? Some how this thread got hijacked into a discussion about harddrives.
Let's steer this back to the HDR issue please.
Right now my pet peav is the hdr issue with my LG oled. I spent countless hours calibrating my set only to have the H3 screwing it up with the hdr tag.
I can as another poster force it off by unplugging the hdmi cable and rebooting but it turns back on every time I go into the Netflix app or change inputs.
This is getting very fustrating. I hate the touch mode.
I wish LG had a setting to disable or the H3 could be directed not to sent the bit.
Let's steer this back to the HDR issue please.
Right now my pet peav is the hdr issue with my LG oled. I spent countless hours calibrating my set only to have the H3 screwing it up with the hdr tag.
I can as another poster force it off by unplugging the hdmi cable and rebooting but it turns back on every time I go into the Netflix app or change inputs.
This is getting very fustrating. I hate the touch mode.
I wish LG had a setting to disable or the H3 could be directed not to sent the bit.
If it was me I would just use component unless I wanted to watch 4K.
Sent from my iPhone using Chrome.
If already covered, sorry....
1. Have you tried changing the Deep color setting? Have you read about some HDMI cables having problems with HDR? I realize it appears to be a problem between the Hopper and certain LG TV's but those two suggestions have helped others with picture problems, I don't know specifically about this one.
Here's an interesting thing that happen a few days ago. I awoke with, as usual, no HDR banner after the nightly DL, but was having trouble with my Closed Captioning. (the black "placeholders" were there, but filled with white blocks instead of lettering). I am using the old 40 remote and I thought I would see if the "other" tuner was also showing bad CC and so hit the "Swap" button. To my surprise, the 'HDR is now on' banner then clicked on. This is the first time I have seen that happen without rebooting the Hopper.
BTW, Since I saw no one else complaining about a CC bug, I knew it had to be with my machine and not system wide. Changing 'CC Service Provider' did nothing, changing channels/tuners did nothing. Rebooting the Hopper did nothing
! Clicking the Reset CC to defaults did!
Unplug the power from all your Joeys, then put the H3 in standby mode. The download should start after a few minutes in standby.
