cband setup?

[chefwan]

i have a cband unimesh sat. and i have to move the sat in a few days closer to my house cause its on someone else's lot and im just wondering if i move it will it still work the same as it did before. without doing anything ?....do i have to adjust it a certain way im just going to take it off the pole and move it over. some and put the sat back on top. so if someone could help please thanks.

 

[dfergie]

to SatelliteGuys... have you already set another pole?

 

[chefwan]

no not yet im going to be doing it in the next few days.

 

[dfergie]

Check out this post in the FAQ's for some help... be sure the new pole is perfectly level, drill or cut holes and put rebar or something to help keep the pole from rotating. Before taking it down put it on a satellite in the center of the arc if possible, and try to use a compass and figure out by some reference point (brace, mount's etc)on the dish where it is pointing...and write that down to try to get it close to where it was on the new pole.

 

[WyrTwister]

Check out this post in the FAQ's for some help... be sure the new pole is perfectly level, drill or cut holes and put rebar or something to help keep the pole from rotating. Before taking it down put it on a satellite in the center of the arc if possible, and try to use a compass and figure out by some reference point (brace, mount's etc)on the dish where it is pointing...and write that down to try to get it close to where it was on the new pole.

And when you get it mounted on the new pole , put the receiver on the same channel and sat you had it on before & move the dish east to west to tweek the picture .

Assuming the origional pole was plumb ( level ) , and it was originally adjusted correctly , you should be pretty well on track .

Wyr

 

[chefwan]

I Have Everything In Place Same Channel Same SAT. but i cant get the Actuator to move. it has 4 wires. those are Red, White, Yellow, Brown...the Actuator is made by GOLD PLUS ....and its a tracker 50 sat receiverbox anyone know how to hook it up. thanks alot for all your support

 

[somery]

The two bigger guage wires are red and white. These are the actual mover DC power supply wires to the motor. M1 and M2 is what they are probably called on the reciever. Under the motor cover on the arm, just look where the other heavy guage wires connect to. Do not connect the smaller wires to these two power wires as this will damage the reed sensor. After that, I would connect the little wires to their matching wires already under the terminals that go to the reed switch. i have black connected to ground on reciever (i am wild guessing but maybe your brown) and the other (yellow?) wire other on that symbol, and nothing on the +5. This is for a different type of sensor.

 

[dfergie]

Look on the back of the receiver where the actuator wires hookup, note the colors of the wires and be sure and hookup to the motor / sensor or switch exactly the same...(pulse, ground, shield etc...)

 

[somery]

oh sorry i misunderstood....i thought you already did the move without the labeling.....

 

[chefwan]

can you guys go in the chat room so i can explain this. its hard to explain just by typing here and there.or any instant messengers?

 

[dfergie]

Ok, going to chat...

 

[chefwan]

here is the back of the receiver. its a HTS tracker 50

 

[dfergie]

In chat resolving if any of Y'all want to jump in

 

[chefwan]

here is the motor

 

[chefwan]

front and back of the HTS tracker 50

 

[chefwan]

here it is

 

[chefwan]

I Figured Out Why The Reciever Was Saying Motor Error The Actuator Was Frozen Up I Greased It Up Real Good And Started Turning the Bottom Of It By Hand And it loosened It And Letting It Sit Overnight. If Not Maybe The Motor Is Great It's just the arm it self it was rusted badly inside anyone know where i can get one? 24" or 18" arm "ill be in chat if somone has one"

 

[chefwan]

if anyone has one let me know

 

[chefwan]

come out to the chat tonight

 

[AntAltMike]

FWIW, since the sensor wire in most ribbon cables has three, 22 or 24 gauge conductors, and a shield/drain wire, but since nearly all jacks sensors only need two wires, most installers twist the green and drain together to form one larger gauge wire, and the other two wires (brown, yellow or orange) to form the other.