I'll take "Name that satellite" for $500 please! HELP!

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Likely not a warranty issue due to the excessive voltage presented to the LNBF. The signal passing issues on this port would point to polarity switching IC damage. I will be unable to test until the end of October, so give me call tomorrow and I can offer a possible replacement option.

Be sure not to connect a two port LNB(F) until this is resolved.
 
Titanium said:
Likely not a warranty issue due to the excessive voltage presented to the LNBF. The signal passing issues on this port would point to polarity switching IC damage. I will be unable to test until the end of October, so give me call tomorrow and I can offer a possible replacement option.

Be sure not to connect a two port LNB(F) until this is resolved.
Click to expand...

I guess I'm lucky then that all I apparently lost to this was one port of a $49 dollar LNBF before I lost a bunch of other things.

I've got 2 other DRO dual LNBF's available, several DRO singles, and an orthomode dual c-band feed, with Norsat 8115's I can install with a powered switch when that time comes, IF I can ever resolve the stray voltage issue that is. Plus, this C2W-PLL seems to be working perfectly for now on just the 'good' port hooked to the MicroHD, with the bad port just floating, so I'll just leave that up for now as-is, and keep the second sat receiver disconnected completely while trying some other things to resolve the voltage issue.

UPDATE:

Ok, wife gave up the tv set. I moved it's 3-prong grounded plug from the common 6-way outlet that was plugged into the UPS, into a wall outlet all by itself, but it's the upper one on the same wall outlet the UPS is plugged into. I did this in hopes that it would ground out the stray voltage, thinking possibly the 6-way internal ground was floating.

It made no difference, maybe that ground prong on the tv set isn't even connected inside? The stray LNB voltage still couples through the HDMI ports...

That's it for me. I'm not going to take the time to open up all these devices, and attempt to ground-bond all the various boards in them all together in the hopes it'll cure this issue. I'll just keep the Amiko as a spare for now, and keep using the MicroHD for its most excellent dvr capabilities! Brian, you knocked it out of the park getting those added to the firmware, and I certainly appreciated it all these years! Even the last few years I didn't think a sat dish would work at this new house, I still had the MicroHD connected to watch dvr'ed shows! I got all those Laurel & Hardy's and Little Rascals recorded from Metv Alternate way back in 2012/2013 when they were showing them on Sunday mornings...
 
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Well, I finally received the Freesat V7S HD receiver today, it's pretty tiny, even a bit smaller than the MicroHD. For $25.99 SHIPPED, it was a good deal. I just blind-scanned 101w Ses1, and the stuttering channels problem is NOT a problem with this receiver, as others said. This sat some channels do stutter with my MicroHD, so I know this V7S receiver is working as stated. I haven't hooked up or tried motor functions, so I can't comment on that.

I don't really like the remote, as the buttons are too small for me, but I can live with it just for using it for this sat. I do like the keyboard function though for editing. Far better than the "flip-phone" style of the MicroHD.

As for Wi-Fi, I can't seem to turn that on? Is it built in, or do you have to use a dongle? If so, which ones work, as this didn't come with one. I probably don't need to use it anyway.
 
primestar31 said:
Well, I finally received the Freesat V7S HD receiver today, it's pretty tiny, even a bit smaller than the MicroHD. For $25.99 SHIPPED, it was a good deal. I just blind-scanned 101w Ses1, and the stuttering channels problem is NOT a problem with this receiver, as others said. This sat some channels do stutter with my MicroHD, so I know this V7S receiver is working as stated. I haven't hooked up or tried motor functions, so I can't comment on that.

I don't really like the remote, as the buttons are too small for me, but I can live with it just for using it for this sat. I do like the keyboard function though for editing. Far better than the "flip-phone" style of the MicroHD.

As for Wi-Fi, I can't seem to turn that on? Is it built in, or do you have to use a dongle? If so, which ones work, as this didn't come with one. I probably don't need to use it anyway.
Click to expand...
I never connected my V7 or V8 to the internet (wired or wireless) as there was discussion on here about their possible ability to 'do bad things' and I wanted no part of that! ;)
 
I can't find anything on this V7S model receiver that gets me to believe this particular version is for piracy. There is no CAS menu item, in the open, or hidden. It does not open any encrypted channels of any sort automatically, even if left on the channel for an hour.

Perhaps there's different firmware versions, but mine didn't come with a pirate version.
 
primestar31 said:
I can't find anything on this V7S model receiver that gets me to believe this particular version is for piracy. There is no CAS menu item, in the open, or hidden. It does not open any encrypted channels of any sort automatically, even if left on the channel for an hour.

Perhaps there's different firmware versions, but mine didn't come with a pirate version.
Click to expand...
Conditional Access was a Main Menu item, but they have hidden it now. Freesat also going by GT Media, but it's still a TOS device :(
 
I was going to say I seen something about the v7 it said you had clones I had got mine from Denmark took a month to get here. It didn't come with any auto roll on it. Ones from Europe were legit ones from China are clones.
 
Let's not continue with any discussion that way, or we are going to get my thread locked.

I simply bought it to watch the stuttering channels on 101w. If I could find a legit receiver that's capable of locking those, and that didn't cost way too much, I'd buy that instead. It's not easy here in North America to get good info on what receiver does what, or that doesn't cost nearly $200, and isn't super complicated to run.

I need a receiver that WORKS, including the stuttering channels. It MUST be capable of Diseqc motor control with a V or G box, and not lock up or reboot when using that. It MUST have really good DVR controls like the MicroHD has had for 5~ years now, such as 30 timers, 30 second skip forward and back, and file place marking and 'jumping-to' capability. CC would also be nice, and a GOOD CLOCK that actually keeps time!

All that just doesn't seem available to us here, and that's just sad.
 
Titanium said:
Likely not a warranty issue due to the excessive voltage presented to the LNBF. The signal passing issues on this port would point to polarity switching IC damage. I will be unable to test until the end of October, so give me call tomorrow and I can offer a possible replacement option.

Be sure not to connect a two port LNB(F) until this is resolved.
Click to expand...

Brian, I have a question on the testing you laid out on Intelpenny's thread in this post below. Can you remember, on any of the 3 tests, did you have the sat receivers hooked up to the same tv or video monitor using HDMI cables, or was HDMI disconnected and the boxes only had power and coax connected?

If HDMI was disconnected, when you have time, can you repeat at least test #1 with them connected to the same tv/monitor through HDMI?

Titanium Dual LNB Problems :(

Titanium said:
Had a chance to test today and the findings are as I have previously observed on typical multi-STB installations.

#1 Test: Two STBs set to vertical polarity with switching power supplies connected to the same power strip (no ground on power supply AC/DC transformers). Two 3' coax cables each connected to one STB. Multi-meter voltage test between unloaded coax cables. Ground source is the plate cover screw.

STB 1: Center1 to Braid1 - 13.77Vdc
STB 2: Center2 to Braid2 - 13.81Vdc
Center1 to Center2 - 0Vdc
Center1 to Braid2 - 0Vdc
Center2 to Braid1 - 0Vdc
Center1 to Ground - 27.5Vac
Center2 to Ground - 27.6Vac
Braid1 to Ground - 27.5Vac
Braid2 to Ground - 27.6Vac

#2 Test: Two STBs set to vertical polarity with switching power supplies connected to the same power strip (no ground on power supply AC/DC transformers). Two 3' coax cables each connected to one STB and looping through dual ground block (connected to structure ground). Multi-meter voltage test between unloaded coax cables. Ground source is the plate cover screw.

STB 1: Center1 to Braid1 - 13.77Vdc
STB 2: Center2 to Braid2 - 13.81Vdc
Center1 to Center2 - 0Vdc
Center1 to Braid2 - 13.77Vdc
Center2 to Braid1 - 13.81Vdc
Center1 to Ground - 0Vac
Center2 to Ground - 0Vac
Braid1 to Ground - 0Vac
Braid2 to Ground - 0Vac

#3 Test: Two STBs set to vertical polarity with switching power supplies. STB 1 remains plugged into same power strip and STB 2 plugged into an extension cord running to an outlet on a different circuit breaker (no ground on power supply AC/DC transformers). Two 3' coax cables each connected to one STB and looping through dual ground block (connected to structure ground). Multi-meter voltage test between unloaded coax cables. Ground source is the plate cover screw.

STB 1: Center1 to Braid1 - 13.76Vdc
STB 2: Center2 to Braid2 - 13.80Vdc
Center1 to Center2 - 0Vdc
Center1 to Braid2 - 13.76Vdc
Center2 to Braid1 - 13.80Vdc
Center1 to Ground - 0Vac
Center2 to Ground - 0Vac
Braid1 to Ground - 0Vac
Braid2 to Ground - 0Vac

As you see by the above testing, there is only slight change when STB #2 was moved to another circuit breaker, but there is no interaction between the two circuits. This is what I would expect to observe when measuring voltages between two STBs at the coax cables disconnected from a dual LNBF. There would be a slight voltage drop due to the length of coax cables, but no interaction between the STBs

Why is voltage present beween your two coax cables where there shouldn't be. Try starting with the test #1 and #2 as above and observe if there is interaction between the two STBs when plugged into the same power strip without anything else attached. Then compare testing #1/#2 to the results of test #3. We can replace the damaged dual LNBF, but before installing, this voltage issue needs to be addressed.
Click to expand...
 
I tried a couple other things with this HDMI voltage coupling to see if I could stop it.

1: I first tried using an HDMI to Component converter I had laying around from a few years ago. It made no difference, it still coupled through the converter, and that makes me suspect it MUST be coupling through any common video tv set ground. Unplug that, and the voltage coupling vanishes...

2: I unscrewed the rg-6 OTA antenna cable off the back of the tv set, as that goes to a house ground block out at the antenna itself. No difference

3: I took an old-school 3 prong ground plug cheater, and plugged the tv set into it, then back into the wall. The ground connection of the cheater was NOT connected to the outlets ground screw, so it completely isolated the tv set's 120 volt jack from the house ground. It made NO DIFFERENCE. LNB voltage still coupled from sat receiver to sat receiver through the tv set's video ports.

I now really wonder what Brian is going to find when he tries this test with both his receivers hooked into the same tv set simultaneously...

I don't have another tv set to try in the mix, IF anybody else wants to try this at home and has two receivers laying around (who of us doesn't have at LEAST two? LOL), please feel free, and let me know. Just do the test on my post number 73 above, you won't risk damaging anything doing it that way, as long as you don't actually hook either receiver up to the LNBF at the same time.

I suspect there my be many other newer tv sets that couple voltage through like mine, and this may SAVE others the possibility of frying any dual LNBF before they try hooking up two receivers to the same tv's HDMI inputs like I did, while they are connected to each side of the dual LNBF.
 
I notice that you did the test with the MicroHD and either one of the Amikos, but did you do the test with just the two Amikos, or with the Freesat and the MicroHD, or the Freesat with the Amikos?

I do have a similar situation to you, a 5x1 HDMI switch (with my AzBox receiver on port 1, and my Shaw Direct receiver on port 2, plus Blueray, etc.) but have my Pansat receiver through component connection. I don't have any problem with the Pansat or AzBox when both are on the same satellite (30W or 87W/91W, both dishes dual sat/quad output LNBF) but, obviously, rarely have the Pansat on. Unfortunately, I can't do the test, as there is no way I can reach the outlet to use the screw (behind the cabinet and well below the opening in the cabinet where the TV is)! LOL!
 
Yes, the MicroHD stayed in the test no matter what. I prefer it's ability for DVR file marking and 30 second jump to jump commercials. I assumed that the Amiko H.265 would have that same ability, but it does not. I guess I should have thought of trying the test without the MicroHD, and just the other two, but I didn't.

Maybe I will later, and I really don't think it'll make any difference, however I guess we won't know for sure until I try it.
 
I JUST 30~ minutes ago replaced the 'damaged on one side' NOS 2014 model C2W-PLL (NO filtering, and extended band), with a brand new C1-PLL with all the various filtering, WiMax, Radar, LTE, whatever. Since my setup with the present tv set coupling voltage across HDMI can't use a dual lnbf anyway with two FTA receivers without damage (see above posts), I figured I might as well do this now, rather than wait for the new C2-PLL's with filtering.

The new lnbf with filtering works MUCH better than the former C2W-PLL! No more constantly fluttering signal levels. That dual one had sat in the box for a few years before I finally used it, and never worked 100% right away out of the box. I don't know if this new one with all the filters and the regular frequency band is so much better because it's filtering a local issue I might have, OR if the C2W-PLL was being affected on the "good side" by the flaky damaged side of the C2W-PLL.

Anyway, I'm recording the 4 hour block of Unsolved Mysteries on Escape 97w right now, and IF that stays locked the whole 4 hours, that'll be longer than the C2W-PLL did on many days.
 
primestar31 said:
...

I simply bought it to watch the stuttering channels on 101w. If I could find a legit receiver that's capable of locking those, and that didn't cost way too much, I'd buy that instead. It's not easy here in North America to get good info on what receiver does what, or that doesn't cost nearly $200, and isn't super complicated to run.

I need a receiver that WORKS, including the stuttering channels. It MUST be capable of Diseqc motor control with a V or G box, and not lock up or reboot when using that. It MUST have really good DVR controls like the MicroHD has had for 5~ years now, such as 30 timers, 30 second skip forward and back, and file place marking and 'jumping-to' capability. CC would also be nice, and a GOOD CLOCK that actually keeps time!

All that just doesn't seem available to us here, and that's just sad.
Click to expand...

1. I've got some of these same concerns with incompatibility between ATSC (OTA) receiver and a local FOX station--receiver WORKS BAD, drops video and audio every few seconds while having a good quality signal. All other stations work normal. So far, I've only concluded it MIGHT be the very common and very widely cloned problematic software on chip. I've been researching replacing with another (third receiver) with a different software on chip. One of two recievers lockup, reboot, and in the process corrupt user channels (constantly going back in to reset channels and schedules), been this way since new.

2. On the satellite system, dealing with the receiver that won't retain correct time for one day even with Standby turned off.
 
I have a daily recording setup to kick off at 4am-6am for FETV, for Sergeant Preston, and Lassie (ranger years). So last night I moved my dish to 113w for the various RetroTv horror movies with no issues, it was about 11 degrees F here at that time. This morning I got up around 5am to use the bathroom, and noticed that the G-box was flashing its display. I looked at the outside thermometer, and it was -4F! Dish or actuator or motor was frozen or something.

Temp finally got to +1F about 10 minutes ago, and the dish now moves again. I've never had this happen before with my older dish on a different Venture actuator, but I'm using the Venture actuator that came with this SAMI dish, so I'm not sure what on it actually froze.

It's rare for it to go this cold around here anymore, but the whole week is supposed to be like this with freezing cold, so not sure what I'm going to do about this as of yet, as it probably is likely to happen again.

Maybe some grease froze, and I need to replace it with one that has a lower temp ability? Anybody got an idea what (beyond heat tape) would help for it to work normally at cold temps below zero F?
 
Well, it's 26°F out there right now, and my dish wouldn't move again, though I had moved it from 99w to 101w hours ago with no issues. This time I was done with 101w, and was trying to move it back to 99w. The Gbox was showing a weird display on the front every time I tried to move it. I then discovered by accident, that it would move WEST with the manual West button, and I could move it back to 99w FETV with the manual East button, but not beyond that.

So, I looked up the Gbox manual, and it said that the display I was seeing was because the EAST soft limit had been set! I NEVER set either the West or East limits on the Gbox itself, I only set those as hard limits with the manual microswitch setup inside the Venture actuator. So, somehow the Gbox set the soft limits by itself! Or, the MicroHD receiver did it, but without any input from me. In this case, I held down the LIMITS button on the Gbox remote for 10 seconds, and it did a countdown, and cleared it all up. Everything now works properly again. I remember reading some threads way back when something like this happened to others, but not what they thought about it, or if they figured out why it did it. Or if it's "just one of those (magical) things".

Anybody got any theories?

P.S. a few minutes later I started thinking: "MAYBE the Gbox got confused with the IR signals from another remote, and used that to set itself"! In other words, perhaps pushing some buttons on another remote hit the same IR frequency the Gbox is looking for... Hummmm...
 
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