A Newbie with a 10' Dish

[Titanium]

No. Sorry, PVC pipe even filled with cement is not strong enough. Most mesh BUD installs use 3" ID steel pipe or casing schedule 40 minimum. Schedule 80 if the pole needs to be stronger. 8' length with 3' below ground.

As other mention, don't forget to weld a tab/rebar or drill and place bolts through the pole within the cement to prevent the pole from rotating in the cement. Many first-time installers don't realize the power of wind on a reflector (even mesh)!

 

[TheBUDGuy]

Thank you!

No. Sorry, PVC pipe even filled with cement is not strong enough. Most mesh BUD installs use 3" ID steel pipe or casing schedule 40 minimum. Schedule 80 if the pole needs to be stronger. 8' length with 3' below ground. Weld a tab or dril and place bolts through the pole within the cement to prevent the pole from rotating in the cement.

Alright. He's thinking about going to put local fencing company for a pole. If not, we'll think of something.

 

[Titanium]

Some great sources for pole stock is metal suppliers, scrap yards, recyclers or well drilling companies. Frence installers usually don't use schedule 40/80 pipe.

 

[TheBUDGuy]

Some great sources for pole stock is metal suppliers, scrap yards, recyclers, well drilling companies. Frence installers usually don't use schedule 40/80 pipe.

We just found a pole at my place that about 1/2 - 2" smaller than the old pole the dish was on. Is that OK?

 

[Titanium]

Probably not.... Smaller diameter or thinner wall is a recipe for disaster.

Honestly, the pole is the last thing that you want to scrimp on. If the pole isn't perfectly plumb, level, strong and stable the dish will not track the arc. You can put a ton of effort into digging the hole mixing and pouring cement, making sure the pole is perfectly plumb and level as the cement cures, mounting the dish, tracking the arc.... but if the pole is weak and bends even a fraction of a degree, the signal will drop and you will receive squat. No reason to not do it right the first time.

 

[TheBUDGuy]

Probably not.... Smaller diameter or thinner wall is a recipe for disaster.

Honestly, the pole is the last thing that you want to scrimp on. If the pole isn't perfectly plumb, level, strong and stable the dish will not track the arc. You can put a ton of effort into digging the hole mixing and pouring cement, making sure the pole is perfectly plumb and level as the cement cures, mounting the dish, tracking the arc.... but if the pole is weak and bends even a fraction of a degree, the signal will drop and you will receive squat. No reason to not do it right the first time.

OK. Thanks for all your help.

EDIT: After giving him a quick call, we are going to call some well drilling companies and ask them.

 

[primestar31]

You don't need new pipe either. So tell the well driller guys you'd be happy with old used METAL well casing. Even if it's larger diameter than you need, you can get a professional welder to weld in a short smaller pipe at the top, for the polar mount on the dish.

 

[TheBUDGuy]

I appreciate all the help. I was looking at some Titanium LNBFs on eBay. Which would be better, the C1-PLL or C2-PLL?

 

[. Raine]

It would depend on how you want to set things up. The C1 is single output and the C2 is dual output, other than that, they're the same. If you only want to have one receiver connected to the dish, the C1 is all you need. If you want a second receiver hooked to the dish too, or in the future may want one, then the C2 would be what you'd want with two outputs.

They're great LNBFs, I have two here, they work great.

 

[norman881]

Alright. He's thinking about going to put local fencing company for a pole. If not, we'll think of something.

I went to a fencing company for my pole, then an irrigation guy. The latter was 1/3 of the price.

 

[primestar31]

Get the C2-PLL. You won't be sorry. You'll need double output in the future, when you want to hook it up to a switch for multiple receivers.

 

[TheBUDGuy]

I'll certainly consider it.? Also, how would you set azimuth and elevation?

 

[Titanium]

http://www.satelliteguys.us/xen/ind...ow-all-i-do-is-wath-T.V..351207/#post-3690433

 

[TheBUDGuy]

By the way, what a scalar ring? Does my dish need one? Also, what type of coaxial cable should I use to connect the LNBF to the receiver?

 

[Titanium]

http://www.titaniumsatellite.com/products#!/FS1-Flat-Scalar-for-Prime-Focus-Dish/p/39948004

On your prime focus dish, the scalar serves two purposes.

1. To hold the feedhorn in the correct position to receive the reflected signals from the reflector.

2. To optimize the reflected signals so only the reflector surface is illuminated (not under or over illuminated) and the desired signals directly in front of the dish are received but the off-axis signals from adjacent satellites / terrestrial noise are rejected.

The flat scalar is included with the C1-PLL LNBF.

Most use good quality Rg6 coax to connect to the LNB(f). You will also need 2 heavy gauge wires to power the actuator (motor) and two lighter gauge wires with separate shielded for the positioner sensor.

Does the dish currently have a motor? What brand/model? What will you use to move and position the actuator? Most hobbyists use a controller that the satellite receiver automatically controls when a satellite or channel is selected. Your choice would be a Gbox / Vbox or our ASC1.

Some hobbyists use a legacy IRD like a 4DTV or analog unit to position the dish, but these IRDs are not automatic and you would need to manually select the satellite to coordinate with the channel that you want to view on the DVBS S2 receiver. It is less expensive to go this route, but it is a pain in the butt to manually position the dish this way! No automatic multi-satellite scanning and you can just change channels to watch another channel.

 

[TheBUDGuy]

http://www.titaniumsatellite.com/products#!/FS1-Flat-Scalar-for-Prime-Focus-Dish/p/39948004

On your prime focus dish, the scalar serves two purposes.

1. To hold the feedhorn in the correct position to receive the reflected signals from the reflector.

2. To optimize the reflected signals so only the reflector surface is illuminated (not under or over illuminated) and the desired signals directly in front of the dish are received but the off-axis signals from adjacent satellites / terrestrial noise are rejected.

The flat scalar is included with the C1-PLL LNBF.

Most use good quality Rg6 coax to connect to the LNB(f). You will also need 2 heavy gauge wires to power the actuator (motor) and two lighter gauge wires with separate shielded for the positioner sensor.

Does the dish currently have a motor? What brand/model? What will you use to move and position the actuator? Most hobbyists use a controller that the satellite receiver automatically controls when a satellite or channel is selected. Your choice would be a Gbox / Vbox or our ASC1.

Some hobbyists use a legacy IRD like a 4DTV or analog unit to position the dish, but these IRDs are not automatic and you would need to manually select the satellite to coordinate with the channel that you want to view on the DVBS S2 receiver. It is less expensive to go this route, but it is a pain in the butt to manually position the dish this way! No automatic multi-satellite scanning and you can just change channels to watch another channel.

The dish does have an actuator. About the actuator: It's over 15-20 years old with the wires cut; only about 2" sticking out. I have no idea what brand it is. I'm planning on also moving the dish with a VBox as well.

 

[Titanium]

Remove the cover and post some photos. One of us will likely recognize and have tips on how to clean, lube, require before testing.

 

[TheBUDGuy]

Does the C2-PLL support any size dish? For example, can it be “too little” on some dishes? Might be a dumb question, but just wondering.

 

[Titanium]

It isn't the dish size, compatibility is determined by the a diameter vs depth calculation and the scalar design. Each dish has a unique FD ratio, but most consumer dishes are within a typical range.

With the included flat scalar the C1/C2-PLL LNBFs support FD ratios 0.32 - 0.44. Is higher FD is required, the conical scalar is used instead.

 

[TheBUDGuy]

Well, I'm at a standstill for now. After checking with my local fencing company, the biggest pole they had was inches short.

EDIT: My father contacted me and told me he was trying to get in touch with another local fence company and ask about a pole.