Dose anyone out there know where I can find system parts for an old Birdview dish it were a 10ft spun alumuman dish... Basically I am looking for the conversion plate that they used to make to get the lnb to the current standards so I can use the dish again.
Birdview Satellite Dish Parts
- Thread starter audio2000
- Start date
- Latest activity Latest activity:
- Replies 6
- Views 4K
- Status
There are several ways to move the scalar plate into proper position.
But, could you please post some front-view, and some rear-view pictures?
We want to be sure to give you the best advice. - :up
But, could you please post some front-view, and some rear-view pictures?
We want to be sure to give you the best advice. - :up
Sure here is a photo shot of both the front and back..
basicly in a nutshell i konw they used to make a conversion plate to mount a new lnb up there ... thats primarly what im looking for at this time i have a newer C/Ku band LNB already... i had already gotten a reed conversion kit for it a while back (said it needed a 1:70 gear box this one is a 1:37 tho i herd this wont be much of a issue)... plus im going to need to find a newer satellight reciver for it..
basicly in a nutshell i konw they used to make a conversion plate to mount a new lnb up there ... thats primarly what im looking for at this time i have a newer C/Ku band LNB already... i had already gotten a reed conversion kit for it a while back (said it needed a 1:70 gear box this one is a 1:37 tho i herd this wont be much of a issue)... plus im going to need to find a newer satellight reciver for it..
Attachments
Was wondering if someone could not get a aluminum plate with the same radius of the old one and drill out some holes into the plate and mount it on there. And some holes to mount the scalar plate
audio2K,
You can mount a Polarotor, CoRotor or one of the voltage-controlled LNBFs just by making the opening in your scalar a little larger.
You can find some discussion of how I went about that in this thread:
http://www.satelliteguys.us/c-band-satellite-discussion/154646-phlats-birdview-install-2.html
You can mount a Polarotor, CoRotor or one of the voltage-controlled LNBFs just by making the opening in your scalar a little larger.
You can find some discussion of how I went about that in this thread:
http://www.satelliteguys.us/c-band-satellite-discussion/154646-phlats-birdview-install-2.html
ya after thinking about it a bit there are serval ways to do it.. was thinking about getting a round aluminam or stell plate of the same radius and drilling some mounting holes on the plate to mount a chapperal schaler and lnb to that.. however i need to find anther reciver since my Uniden that was giving to me will no longer power on
I lucked into that exact dish last year. It's a beauty.
But there is a caution. The aluminum struts and nuts tend to oxidize together, meaning that if you take off the original scalar plate, shearing off (breaking) the strut is a very real possiblity.
I saw what people went through on that and determined to leave the scalar in place and to drill out the hole as it sat. I measured the lnb with a caliper and bought a decent hole saw of the same size. I then drilled a hole with it through a piece of 1/4 inch plexiglass and then c-clamped that plexiglass on the scalar dead center on the existing hole. The plexiglass acted as a guide to hold the hole saw dead center.
The scalar is aluminum, so drilling it out took about 15 minutes with a lot of oil. No broken struts, good to go.
But there is a caution. The aluminum struts and nuts tend to oxidize together, meaning that if you take off the original scalar plate, shearing off (breaking) the strut is a very real possiblity.
I saw what people went through on that and determined to leave the scalar in place and to drill out the hole as it sat. I measured the lnb with a caliper and bought a decent hole saw of the same size. I then drilled a hole with it through a piece of 1/4 inch plexiglass and then c-clamped that plexiglass on the scalar dead center on the existing hole. The plexiglass acted as a guide to hold the hole saw dead center.
The scalar is aluminum, so drilling it out took about 15 minutes with a lot of oil. No broken struts, good to go.
- Status
Similar threads
- Article
- Article
