Broken Pansat 3500

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linuxman

SatelliteGuys Pro
Original poster
Jul 16, 2006
3,903
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North West of St. Louis, MO
The Pansat 3500 that I have been using for the family setup connected to the Pinnacle dish started whacking out Friday night. My wife turned it on and was preparing for a couple of hours of Matlock and Hawaii 50 when she told me the channels wouldn't come on.

It was already dark, so I went through some quick checks and found there was a problem, but couldn't check the dish until morning. I checked the dish yesterday morning, nothing moved, disconnected, or any other visible problems.

Went back inside, and took the Ecoda switch out of the loop, no improvement. Put on a brand new diseqc switch, no improvement. Ran the coax direct from the C-Band LNB to the receiver, and same symptoms and tried the Ku direct. And yes, I have factory reset it, and no improvement.

Here is what it does:

The signal comes in for a bit at about the right SQ, but then bounces to nothing then up and down like a yo-yo, then steady for a bit. All this will take place in a 10 second time frame. The picture will be fine then pixelate and garbled audio etc. Ku will do the same, but takes forever for the signal to come in, then it is very low with the same characteristics as above with C-Band except much lower signal. The remote also acts very spasmodic. Even standing within 3 feet of the receiver, you have to push the button several times for each action, then the action might not be the correct one for what you pushed. For instance up arrow might produce left or right or up three steps. Tried new batteries, and my other remote from the one in my study, no difference.

This is the same receiver that I had problems with the polarotor controller right after I bought it new. I sent it to Panarex in April for warranty repair. They said they got it fixed it by "re-calibrating it with new software".

I may be wrong, but I think they "recalibrated" it by just simply performing an operation that we don't talk about here.

I will have to contact Panarex tomorrow and see if I have to pay another $40.00 plus shipping costs required by their warranty to get it fixed again or not. If I do have to pay again, that will mean that I have an extra $100.00 in this receiver which includes my shipping it twice, besides what I initially paid for it.

Meanwhile, how do you "recalibrate" this receiver?

I know we don't talk about things like that here, but I want to fix this thing, not alter it for illegal use. Can someone email me or PM me with detailed instructions or a link with instructions. I don't frequent sites that do these kinds of things so I am kind of in the dark here.

The other alternative is to buy a different receiver and go with a voltage controlled feed-horn/lnbf for this dish.

Any help would be appreciated,

Thanks,

Fred
 
Have you tried reloading the factory software for it yourself? (or is Pansat the one that says loading firmware voids warranty?) I would try it anyway rather than pay all that again. Software gets corrupted sometimes. And, they may even have upgraded the firmware for yours since they worked on it last. Sure sounds like its got buggy firmware now. I'd factory-reset it, after unplugging it a min or two, see if that makes any difference.
 
Hey Turbosat,

I am getting ready to reload the B-80 firmware that was a two step process when it came out and see if that takes care of it. That firmware required you to have a direct hook-up for the first part, then you could load the other part off the SD-memory stick.

Got to read up on that process again. :)

Fred
 
Let us know how that goes, a while back I was looking for the source code for the receivers and I saw some PDF's that might have other solutions if reloading the firmware does not work.

I wanted the source code since I know programing :) and I wanted to make the blind search better and allow it to blind search the whole arc with the push of a button.
Unfortunately I never found the source code and when I contacted Pansat they said their engineers do not want to give it out. :(
 
well i hope you get it working right again . i too got to use the warrenty on my coolsat and although its good to have a warrenty i find it lacking that you have to pay so much for shipping it back ( its $29 for coolsat). And yes i know that $29 isn't a whole lot of money but it cost me $11 to ship it to them and should be in that range to ship it back. so for me that was $40

although it seems like the quality get lower & lower as we improve into this techno age also the cost of fixing the lower quality products gets passed onto the consumer. I gusee the day and age of making a product ( and i don't think these companies make these STB they just market them) and stand behind them is a thing of the past.

good luck on the software re-flash i did it on my other coolsat and its working flawlessly now.
 
Sorry about your Pansat Fred. I have one, but I'm sure you know as much or more than I do about it, so I'm of no use there. I've never updated any software/firmware on any of my receivers. I haven't even used the ChannelMaster loader program, although I have looked at it and I've downloaded it and also newer versions of software/firmware into my computer from the factorys of the different receiver manufacturers, but I've never tried to download into the receiver. I think I'm afraid I might mess it up? Hope you get it worked out. I'm sure if anyone can, it's you. Good Luck!

Al
 
linuxman, I think I still have the jtag files and utilites I used for my 3500 that I got. It was flakey when I got it (from ebay) and was pretty solid after I jtagged it. I have the chip-set file for the b-80 bootfiles. Let me know if you need em. I can upload them here or somewhere. They are legit files, nothing messed with.

If you need the cable, I have that still too, I can send it to ya, just pay for shipping.
 
Sorry SatinKzo, I didn't mean for my post to sound like I didn't agree with you, I know we are all trying to be helpful.

What I am thinking about requires him to replace some bad components and if those components are the problem then JTAGing will not help, he can check the components by just opening the receiver.
 
Thanks guys for all your suggestions.

I have just completed an exhaustive re-enactment so to speak of everything I did yesterday, though this time slowly and methodically.

I did the re-flash with the cable from laptop to receiver with the B-80 loader and the newest API file. None of that helped.

I brought in my Pansat from the study and hooked it up and everything worked flawlessly including their remote.

I then re-hooked up their receiver and for a little bit it seemed that it almost acted normal again but not quite. After a few minutes it started flaking again. I thought it might be heat related so I put a spacer between it and the next box down, but no dice.

Quert, I have no problem opening it up and taking a look. It won't be the first time. :)

Just tell me what to look for.

And yes SatinKzo, I'll be glad to pay for the shipping on the J-tag cable once we look into Querts suggestion and determine that no components are bad.

I am awaiting your instructions Quert.

Fred
 
Sorry SatinKzo, I didn't mean for my post to sound like I didn't agree with you, I know we are all trying to be helpful.

laff, no, I didn't take it wrong. Sorry, I just realized how my reply sounded and I didn't mean for it to sound like it is coming across either. :) Yep, we are all trying to help.

Linuxman, when you open it up, let me know if you have an IDE looking connector on the board, if not, jtagging will require some soldering.
 
Ok, unplug the receiver from the wall, then open up the Pansat 3500, there look like there are three screws.

Once the Pansat is opened up take a look at the right side close to the power supply close to the front display.

Look at Capacitor 13 and 14 they are marked C13 and C14 on the board, they should have flat tops, check them to see if they look like they are swelled or leaky. Most of the time they will show signs if they have problems but it may not show, your receivers symptoms sound like these have a problem.

If you don't see any problems with them I will send you a PDF and then you can decide if you want to change the capacitors or uses SatinKzo JTAG.

Let us know how they look.
 
Oh no, I hope it's not leaky caps.

I think if my receiver had a problem I would rather have the capacitors being the problem rather than having to JTAG it, but thats just me :)

Also LinuxMan if you have a camera please take picture of the inside and post them here, then we can tell you if you need to make any modifications to JTAG, if that is necessary.
 
I just have bad memories of the dell and other PC's with the leaky cap issues the last few years.. So many problems.

As for jtagging, if he has the port (some do, some don't) on the board, it will only take about 5 minutes to do. Took me hours to research how to do it and get the right utilities and files.
If you don't have the port, then it's a bit more complicated, but I have instructions for that too.

Definately take a pic though of the board and if possible some close ups of the caps and chips inside
 
Look at Capacitor 13 and 14 they are marked C13 and C14 on the board, they should have flat tops, check them to see if they look like they are swelled or leaky. Most of the time they will show signs if they have problems but it may not show, your receivers symptoms sound like these have a problem.

I just looked at the caps C13 and C14, and the tops are pushed up just a little. The cross-lines are expanded and not nice and tight like C19, C12, and C20.

Also SatinKzo, it does have a nice 20 pin IDE like connector on the inside.

Here are some pics.

3500-ps-caps.jpg

3500-mb.jpg

Tell me if you can see everything ok.

Fred
 
Thanks for the images, It looks like you have the slot for the JTAG header " 20 pin IDE" already there ,could you please get a side view of the capacitors? or something like a 45 degrees angle to them.

Thanks.
 
Well, if your caps are good, it's an easy path to jtag, but need to see more with the caps. Can you take a side pic? Also, just incase, can you take a close up of the chip to the right of the silver heatsink in pic 2. That chip tells me what jtag file you would need.

edit: qwert beat me to it
 
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