Brought home a Birdview today

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To get an idea of how much sanding or cutting I'll have to do, I'm curious to know the difference in diameter between a Birdview scalar opening and one for a modern LNBF?

As for the threaded rod holes, I've now got 5 that are good to use and the final one might not be stripped like I first thought. I'll try a 5/16 tap and see if it can be cleaned out. But if it can't then using a helicoil as suggested by Jason is an excellent idea.

I really look forward to seeing what this dish can do!
 
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Some progress:

All 6 rod holes are now clear of metal debris and tapped out with good 5/16 thread.

My reed sensor from Digi-Key arrived and I got some small magnets at Harbor Freight to build a pulse sending rotary wheel.

Today I'm pouring a concrete pad with 3 large bolts embedded for bolting down the pedestal.

There's a complete Birdview system with a receiver and controller in the Denver area. See this: http://denver.craigslist.org/ele/4935916545.html

BVMesh.jpg


BVRecCont.jpg



 
If you are using steel threaded rod in aluminum nubs, make sure you use a good anti-sieze compound. There WILL be a galvanic reaction between dis-similar metals.
Good point, thanks. Fortunately I saved the receipt so it's back to Lowe's for those steel rods. Will try to find some 5/16 aluminum rods.

Today I noticed another problem to solve: 5 of the 12 bolt holes on the back of the dish have no threaded nuts welded behind the back plate. They probably broke off long ago. And there is no easy way to access that area without cutting something. Not sure what I'm going to do.
 
How about using "nutserts" http://avdelusallc.com/products/nutsert.shtml
I used them to attach LNB strut arms to my dish.
Thanks, that would work great. I'm trying to find the best place to order 3/8-16 aluminum nutserts or rivnuts. M10 would also work.

So far it looks like I would have to wait for shipment from China or Hong Kong, or buy thousands at a time. I just need 5. :facepalm
 
Thanks, that would work great. I'm trying to find the best place to order 3/8-16 aluminum nutserts or rivnuts. M10 would also work.

So far it looks like I would have to wait for shipment from China or Hong Kong, or buy thousands at a time. I just need 5. :facepalm

You may have a Fastenal store near you or just place an internet order.
They are the go to place for me when it comes to fasteners of all types.


https://www.fastenal.com/web/products/fasteners/riveting-self-clinching-products/_/Navigation?term=&termca=&termpx=&sortby=webrank&sortdir=descending&searchmode=productSearch&filterByVendingMachine=&r=~|categoryl1:"600000 Fasteners"|~ ~|categoryl2:"600191 Riveting 9and Self-Clinching Products"|~
Click on rivet nuts and select Aluminum on the left side.

EDIT (A little closer to you than China):
Store Code: CAROS
Hours: Monday - Friday 7:00am - 5:00pm
Phone: 916-784-7770
Fax: 916-784-7780
10560 Industrial Avenue #100
Roseville, CA USA 95678
Map and Directions
 
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It's a 'blind' hole with no way to get to the other side without cutting. So I went with Fred's suggestion and ordered the rivnuts direct from Fastenal in Indiana. Should have them next week.

Also, the Birdview scalar plate arrived yesterday (thanks again, radio!). The aluminum rods should arrive next week. The concrete pad for the pedestal is done. So it looks like everything will be in place to get it working next weekend.
 
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Very glad to be of help! And, thank you for the gift of the LNB! Can't wait to see your birdview go through being revitalized! You'll love having it. Any time I can be of help, just ask!
 
Almost there.... All the parts have arrived and a lot of progress has been made.

I couldn't find a tool for fastening 3/8 rivnuts under $500. The inexpensive one sold by Harbor Freight only goes up to 1/4" and I needed 3/8", so I made my own tool. I used a very strong acrylic sheet with a 7/16 hole I drilled, a washer, a nut, a 3/8" bolt and 2 wrenches. After putting the bolt into the rivnut, and preventing it from turning with a wrench, I put all my weight on the acrylic sheet above the rivnut in the dish back plate. I tightened the hex nut which forced the rivnut to collapse and spread as designed, and it locked in place. It worked great for the remaining 4 that I had to do. Below is a photo of my simple home made rivnut fastener.

rivnut_device.jpg


Then I drilled a 3" round piece from the acrylic sheet to make a magnet wheel and I mounted it on the worm gear shaft. I temporarily positioned a reed switch in place using bent copper wire. After checking the motor and lubricating all the involved parts I hooked it up to my GBox. The motor works great and the dish now turns smoothly for the full range under control of the GBox! I am getting about 5 pulses per degree of rotation.

bv_back.jpg


The next step was to mill out the scalar plate, kindly donated by 'radio', and that was easily accomplished using 'phlatwound's method from another thread here. I also sanded away some of the irregularities from the GEOSATPro C1PLL tube for a tight fit in the scalar ring.

bv_scalar.jpg


I really wanted to get the scalar ring mounted on the dish Saturday so I could use the dish, but I wasn't able to thread the 7/16 aluminum rods with the handheld thread cutter. So I will have to find another way the next chance I get to work on this project.

I am really looking forward to completing this and seeing what this dish can do on both C-band and KU. I am awaiting the arrival of an Invacom C120 and feed horn from the UK.
 
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Glad to see your progress! Was just looking through the threads yesterday, and wondered! I've been out working on my dish farm, now that we have a few days of warm weather, and am changing feeds to "better utilize" the existing dishes before adding more. Guess the "bug" has gotten to everyone with the arrival of spring! Let me know if I can be of any more help! Good to hear the motor moves well.....in time, you may need something with a bit more "resolution" to stop the dish more accurately on the birds close together, but I think you'll be fine overall. Some of us have had difficulties moving larger dishes over time with the G-box, I think the boxes tend to give less and less current over time (my opinion) and as soon as I can, I hope to acquire the Titanium dish mover which has plenty of current and seems built to last! I get errors sometimes on my movement because the dish doesn't start moving quickly enough for the expected pulse return. I believe it's a current issue.

Keep us all in the loop! GREAT posts!
 
... as soon as I can, I hope to acquire the Titanium dish mover which has plenty of current and seems built to last! GREAT posts! ...

Maybe we can arrange a club discount with Titanium for his ASC1. I'll bring it up for discussion at the next B.V.O.C. meeting.
 
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