DISH Hopper H 711 software version

[Foxbat]

It would be helpful to know your TV manufacturer and model.

 

[Almighty1]

It would be helpful to know your TV manufacturer and model.

LG 65" 65EF9500 3D OLED. It seems like the DISH 50.0/52.0 Remotes is sending a signal to the Hopper when the TV Power button is pressed as the DISH Hopper H3 since 2016 and the Dish Hopper H3 + Dish Hopper Plus since 2024 worked correctly until those newer software versions, it can always be the DISH remote software. DISH used the LG, 131 code since 2016 before and I recently changed it to LG, 1840 and it didn't make a difference. I just tried something else, setting the DISH 50.0/52.0 remote to Sony, 810 so it will not actually turn the tv on/off to show it is unrelated to the TV itself so the tv remains on and as soon as I hit the TV Power button on the DISH 50.0/52.0, the standby Press SAT to watch TV is shown on the TV. This means the DISH Remote when the TV Power button is pressed is sending two signals, one is the power off signal to the tv and one is the power off/standby signal to the Hopper H3. I don't think the DISH Remote knows if either the Hopper H3 and/or TV is on or off/standby. So basically it appears the TV Power Button, the power button with the TV on the right side of the DISH 50.0/52.0 remotes which does not exist on the DISH 54.x remotes is acting like the left power button that sends a signal to both the Hopper H3 and the TV. For reference, the firmware on the remotes are:
50.0 E008T504ES56
52.0 E009T504EM52
54.1 E011T504EW59

Maybe everyone else does not leave the Hopper H3 on when they turn off the tv so they use the power button on the left or the only power button on the left so they won't see the issue as their Hopper H3 is supposed to be in standby when their tv is turned on. I don't know if this is a problem with the DISH 54.x remote or not as my 54.x remotes are still in the box but from what I read on the forums here, while there is no dedicated TV power button, one is supposed to click on tv on the side first and then click on the power button so it's two steps instead of one. Just tried it with a DISH 54.1 remote with firmware E011T504EW59
also using Sony, 810 as the TV in Remote Settings so the LG 65" 65EF9500 3D OLED TV stays on and it has same issue as the DISH 50.0 and DISH 52.0 remotes when pressing TV on the left side followed by Power on the DISH 54.1 remote so the issue is there with the DISH 50.0, 52.0 and 54.x remotes as TV power is sending a power signal to the Hopper H3 at the same time.

 

[Almighty1]

Editing the above message timed out but for the DISH 54.x remotes from 54.3 Remote Problem - it was Bobby who mentioned the TV can be turned on and off only by pressing tv followed by power without turning off the Hopper 3 while Partysox responding in 54.3 Remote Problem said from experience with 6 different 54.3 remotes, it will still turn on and off the TV as well as the Hopper, behaving the same way as only pressing Power without pressing TV first.

 

[Jim5506]

Editing the above message timed out but for the DISH 54.x remotes from 54.3 Remote Problem - it was Bobby who mentioned the TV can be turned on and off only by pressing tv followed by power without turning off the Hopper 3 while Partysox responding in 54.3 Remote Problem said from experience with 6 different 54.3 remotes, it will still turn on and off the TV as well as the Hopper, behaving the same way as only pressing Power without pressing TV first.

WE use the Amazon Fire Stick to turn on our Samsung 11 year old 65" 4K TV and Sony surround because it can power up the Sony and the Samsung 65" TV with a one button touch. I never see the Joey4 in standby. It always comes up on the last channel tuned.

I use a Fire Stick with the H3 to power on the 2025 Samsung 50" UHD TV and Sony surround sound but I always have to hit the SAT button on the Dish remote to bump the H3 out of standby. The new Tizen OS on the new Samsung TV is a booger to figure out, shoud have stayed with the almost smart TV.

 

[Almighty1]

WE use the Amazon Fire Stick to turn on our Samsung 11 year old 65" 4K TV and Sony surround because it can power up the Sony and the Samsung 65" TV with a one button touch. I never see the Joey4 in standby. It always comes up on the last channel tuned.

I use a Fire Stick with the H3 to power on the 2025 Samsung 50" UHD TV and Sony surround sound but I always have to hit the SAT button on the Dish remote to bump the H3 out of standby. The new Tizen OS on the new Samsung TV is a booger to figure out, shoud have stayed with the almost smart TV.

The Amazon Fire Stick's Remote works correctly in your case. The issue as I mentioned above is with the DISH 50.0/52.0/54.0 remotes, the tv power button (TV then Power on the 54.0 which lacks a dedicated TV power button) is sending two signals at the same time to both the tv and the Hopper when it's only supposed to send to the tv only so now basically, the advantage of a live buffer for the last 60 minutes before the tv is turned on is gone.

 

[brittanygarden]

Almighty1 Having my team look into this

 

[bnewt]

My hws downloaded this today.
As a result I lost all ota channels, diagnostic screen no longer identifies which remote is in use as I have 2 paired. It also no longer shows location, model # of remote or firmware of one of the remotes. Also had to change resolution of tv and several other settings. I haven't checked the 2nd hws but expecting the same.

 

[long_time_Dish]

I use a Pronto Pro remote (IR only) with my Hopper 3. It's been working great until H711. Now, since H711, if I've been watching a channel for an hour or so, it's like the Hopper "forgets" that I'm using IR and I have to "wake it" up again by hitting the View (which brings up the banner at the top of the screen) button anywhere from 5 to 22 times (varies by how long I've been on any given channel without tapping a Hopper-related button on my Pronto Pro).

After I wake it up again, it responds just fine to anything I do (guide, channel change, up, down, dvr, etc, etc). I don't have this issue with my Pronto Pro controlling my sound bar or my TV or lights or anything else.

Any thoughts?

 

[brittanygarden]

Almighty1 My team has confirmed this to be an issue, but still trying to determine priority based on remote usage data.

 

[long_time_Dish]

Almighty1 My team has confirmed this to be an issue, but still trying to determine priority based on remote usage data.

Some urgency would be appreciated very much. Last night, after watching a football game, I had to press the View button 46 times before the banner came up. When my count got past 35, I was starting to wonder if it was going to respond at all.

After the banner finally appeared, it responded normally to all other button taps.

 

[JSheridan]

The Amazon Fire Stick's Remote works correctly in your case. The issue as I mentioned above is with the DISH 50.0/52.0/54.0 remotes, the tv power button (TV then Power on the 54.0 which lacks a dedicated TV power button) is sending two signals at the same time to both the tv and the Hopper when it's only supposed to send to the tv only so now basically, the advantage of a live buffer for the last 60 minutes before the tv is turned on is gone.

After pressing the power button the TV goes off and the Hopper gives you a couple of minutes before it goes into standby. After I press the power button to turn off the TV I just press the Info button on the 54 remote which keeps the Hopper from going into standby.

 

[brittanygarden]

long_time_DNC what model of remote are you using and on which box?

 

[Almighty1]

After pressing the power button the TV goes off and the Hopper gives you a couple of minutes before it goes into standby. After I press the power button to turn off the TV I just press the Info button on the 54 remote which keeps the Hopper from going into standby.

See posts #20-23 and brittanygarden 's post #29 confirming the issue as TV Power whether on the 50.0 and 52.0 or TV followed by Power on the 54.1 seems to be sending both the IR signal to the TV and also immediately putting the Hopper 3 into standby as I intentionally had the remote control settings as a Sony 810 so the LG TV would not recognize the IR signal just to see what happens on the Hopper 3 and it shows the Press SAT to watch tv as soon as the power button was hit. The TV power button on the 50.0/52.0 and TV + Power on the 54.1 also was able to get the Hopper 3 out of standby, basically doing the same thing as the SAT button so either my remotes have older software versions with the bug when everyone else has the latest software or I have the latest software with the bug when everyone else has an earlier version of the software and never updated.

 

[Almighty1]

Almighty1 My team has confirmed this to be an issue, but still trying to determine priority based on remote usage data.

Many thanks brittanygarden and your team for looking into this. Are the software versions for the remote listed in post #22 actually the current versions or did I somehow get stuck with the older versions without remote software updates? Thanks!

 

[Almighty1]

Some urgency would be appreciated very much. Last night, after watching a football game, I had to press the View button 46 times before the banner came up. When my count got past 35, I was starting to wonder if it was going to respond at all.

After the banner finally appeared, it responded normally to all other button taps.

Not sure if you issue is related to the following thread Logitech Remote Not Working After Software Update? as it seems like for both you and others, non-DISH programmable remotes being Logitech Harmony models and in your case, Philips Pronto stopped working after updating to H711 on the Hopper 3 while in my case, it's the DISH 50.0/52.0 and 54.x remotes TV only Power function that is only supposed to power toggle the tv using IR but instead it's also sending a RF signal to the Hopper 3 at the same time. So the issue you and others are experiencing is related to the Hopper 3 software H711 while in my case, it seems to be the software on the DISH 50.0/52.0 and 54.x remotes which may or may not be related to the Hopper 3.

 

[long_time_Dish]

long_time_DNC what model of remote are you using and on which box?

I'm using a Phillips Pronto Pro TSU6000 programmable remote. It's worked for me since I had the VIP 612 DVR Receiver back in the day, up through the VIP 812 DVR and now the Hopper 3. It's had zero issues with my Pronto Pro until the H711 update on 8/13/26. Also, as I said in a previous post, it operates my TV, soundbar, home theater system, lights and other electronics without any issues at all.

Here is what it looks like:

 

[navychop]

Beam me up, Scotty.

 

[long_time_Dish]

Beam me up, Scotty.

Yeah, but it works great for me.

 

[tsunami2311]

Ever since this been on H3 I notice the Joey4k seem to lock up in menus for like 30~1min upon first start/boot up, Have not seen it do that on H3 though

 

[reubenray]

I use a Pronto Pro remote (IR only) with my Hopper 3. It's been working great until H711. Now, since H711, if I've been watching a channel for an hour or so, it's like the Hopper "forgets" that I'm using IR and I have to "wake it" up again by hitting the View (which brings up the banner at the top of the screen) button anywhere from 5 to 22 times (varies by how long I've been on any given channel without tapping a Hopper-related button on my Pronto Pro).

After I wake it up again, it responds just fine to anything I do (guide, channel change, up, down, dvr, etc, etc). I don't have this issue with my Pronto Pro controlling my sound bar or my TV or lights or anything else.

Any thoughts?

This is exactly how my Harmony 665 is working now. After pushing several buttons it wakes up and then works correctly. It seems like the infrared part is not working.