On a VC2 there was a electrolytic capacitor that stayed charged when the battery was disconnected for a bit. On the 4DTV this may or may not be true. From what I understand, the battery is only used when the unit has no power. So in short a hot swap would work. Although it would be safer to use the battery parallel method if soldiering. If for some reason you got a splash of solider on the board or shorted something while hot it could mean curtains for the 4DTV.
DSR-922/DSR-920 Battery Questions
- Thread starter tradewinds
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I bought a receiver off of ebay about 2 years go. I was told that the battery had been replaced. I'm doubting that claim right now as I sit here with a model 920 with a scrambled unit ID. I should have changed the battery anyways...
if you could reload an id, why would you reload your own. You would load some other id into it . I think that is called cloning, and was a big problem that digicypher was supposed to address. I bet ATS does not have one.
I am new to this, I have had a 922 for a wile, I am on my second one, anyway, so if the battery goes dead then does that mean your unit is toast?
Also about how long does a battery last?
Thanks
Terry
Also about how long does a battery last?
Thanks
Terry
If the Battery goes Dead AND you unplug, or loose power, the unit will lose it's Unit ID and is Toast.
It seems that most batteries die around 10 years, +/- a couple years.
You cannot reprogram them,. They have a fuse that is blown after programming.
I would have to say that ATS likely doesn't have a programmer, rather they have a stock of replacement boards from Motorola, which Motorola themselves change out the crypto chip and program with the keys/UA for that board, or a new one.
I would have to say that ATS likely doesn't have a programmer, rather they have a stock of replacement boards from Motorola, which Motorola themselves change out the crypto chip and program with the keys/UA for that board, or a new one.
Well, just my luck. About to replace my battery and went to Alan's site for one last look and it seems to be down:
http://www.pacificsites.com/~alanjudd/922.htm
UPDATE: The site came back up and I soldered the battery holder. Tomorrow I'll attempt to cut out the old battery, although it still seems good with 3.1 V (for a 3 V battery).
http://www.pacificsites.com/~alanjudd/922.htm
UPDATE: The site came back up and I soldered the battery holder. Tomorrow I'll attempt to cut out the old battery, although it still seems good with 3.1 V (for a 3 V battery).
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Do you know how long ago this post was???
I went to "The Shack" and they say the #230-0037 is obsolete!
They could not find anything but I found #23-940 on the rack and the only difference is that it is rated 3.6V and 2200mAh. Would the 2200mAh matter?This battery cost me $16.99 which is a little more. The website has a Saft LS14500C 2700mAh which is catalog #55025148 and is only $9.99. (Plus shipping!)
The $16.99 battery is a TADIRAN brand and the chart on the back says that it replaces the R6; TL-2100/S; TL-5104/S which I think supercedes the battery listed in the post.
I went to "The Shack" and they say the #230-0037 is obsolete!
They could not find anything but I found #23-940 on the rack and the only difference is that it is rated 3.6V and 2200mAh. Would the 2200mAh matter?
I asked my brother, the "Iceberg" of electronics in our family, and he says the "mAh" (milli amp hours) has to do with how long the memory will retain info. The one online from Radio Shack rated 2700 mAh will work too. So the higher the number will work and better.
I asked my brother, the "Iceberg" of electronics in our family, and he says the "mAh" (milli amp hours) has to do with how long the memory will retain info. The one online from Radio Shack rated 2700 mAh will work too. So the higher the number will work and better.
Higher mAh numbers mean higher capacity, it will last longer. Won't hurt anything.
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