DSR410 losing satellite lock

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trinidex

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Jul 16, 2004
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I have a couple of DSR410 units subbed to HITS on W5. All of a sudden 2 days ago one kept dropping the satellite lock, flashing red/green on the front panel.

I've swapped cables between the 2 receivers but the problem persists on only one of them. Both polarities are affected.

I'm presuming some tuner related problem? Perhaps bad caps?

Can anyone help me narrow down the problem so I might be able to fix it?

Thanks!
 
If you have a scope,check the small electrolytics near the tuner for ripple.I've never had a 410,let alone popped the cover,but I'm thinking it's not too much different from a 922.Caps near the tuner is usually the problem with a "no lock"922.
 
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If you have a scope,check the small electrolytics near the tuner for ripple.I've never had a 410,let alone popped the cover,but I'm thinking it's not too much different from a 922.Caps near the tuner is usually the problem with a "no lock"922.

Thanks will do
 
Another thing is spring "solar outage"; because it will go away by itself...

I had hoped it was that - but the another 410 on the same feed is fine. I've been searching and reading, there's a lot of references to a now defunct "Alan Judd" site - best I can tell I'm looking to replace all 16v 10uf caps.

Cheers
 
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I had hoped it was that - but the another 410 on the same feed is fine. I've been searching and reading, there's a lot of references to a now defunct "Alan Judd" site - best I can tell I'm looking to replace all 16v 10uf caps.

Cheers

The look of a power's supply is the use of an oscope. The replacement of caps is a good start. Many times; a tuner has gone bad instead; however; also requiring an oscope and bench. Or, the same problem can be caused by a bad connector; a couple of drops of water in the cable serving; or the switch port; or the splitter port; serving the receiver; AND even a bee's nest in the feedhorn throat being built right now!too. Good luck, it really is not an easy chore; and in the old day's there were only a few who could get it right; all the time (but never every time). Slippage is the other problem in electronic repair... i have a few....good luck! Replacing all outside connectors first; then replace the lnb; or the lnbf (we already know they are ok, however; but still can have the culprit in it (grenlin's are very bad problems)); then re-place the splitter after checking it; (change the two ports around after fe-placing the connectors;; you must be using a splitter with an lnb for 2 receivers; or switched using dual lnbf; then change the connectors outside and hook it up backwards (switching which port serves all the different receivers); and the ports for each, switch them to see if they are the cause.

Electronic repair; for a 410 will be much easier than soldering on many of any of the new boards; as manufacturing is reallllllllllly small now. In synchro with the rest of the story; is the list of what you can do that also may be the problem, itself.

For installation perfection; i have grease i use on final; for water/corrosiveness goes away and almost 10 years; a connector will last.

For tightness of the connection; so it won't wiggle; i use the technique of the ages; full on power until tight, then as much strength as i can amass more.

For parts protection; the ground is a real chore; and required for it to work; at all; ever.
 
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The look of a power's supply is the use of an oscope. The replacement of caps is a good start. Many times; a tuner has gone bad instead; however; also requiring an oscope and bench. Or, the same problem can be caused by a bad connector; a couple of drops of water in the cable serving; or the switch port; or the splitter port; serving the receiver; AND even a bee's nest in the feedhorn throat being built right now!too. Good luck, it really is not an easy chore; and in the old day's there were only a few who could get it right; all the time (but never every time). Slippage is the other problem in electronic repair... i have a few....good luck! Replacing all outside connectors first; then replace the lnb; or the lnbf (we already know they are ok, however; but still can have the culprit in it (grenlin's are very bad problems)); then re-place the splitter after checking it; (change the two ports around after fe-placing the connectors;; you must be using a splitter with an lnb for 2 receivers; or switched using dual lnbf; then change the connectors outside and hook it up backwards (switching which port serves all the different receivers); and the ports for each, switch them to see if they are the cause.

Electronic repair; for a 410 will be much easier than soldering on many of any of the new boards; as manufacturing is reallllllllllly small now. In synchro with the rest of the story; is the list of what you can do that also may be the problem, itself.

For installation perfection; i have grease i use on final; for water/corrosiveness goes away and almost 10 years; a connector will last.

For tightness of the connection; so it won't wiggle; i use the technique of the ages; full on power until tight, then as much strength as i can amass more.

For parts protection; the ground is a real chore; and required for it to work; at all; ever.

It really is too late to ask for more work out of the internet; because .......big is 6 foot steel; or 8 foot; and you had a wind? Thanks, but i am happy where it is too late for me to help you? So many ways a satellite works; or doesn't; the list had not ended yet; this is in reply to myself having written anything down.
 
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Thanks for the tips and hints guys - will go back and check over everything again - hope it's not the battery !
 
I lost a DSR410 to a dead battery, it would not boot at all. I seem to remember the front panel LEDs flashing colors. I think the only time I ever saw the dish icon in yellow.
ouch :(

Glad I'm not at that stage...yet!

Confirmed the ID is good and the sub is still working. Ordered a bunch of 16v 10uF caps today.
 
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