installed my corotor today

[truckracer]

This corotor II is outstanding. I have booming KU band on the 10' sami Now.
C-band is super too. The only thing I am not locking is the G3C mux Equity.

I have 69% but no picture.

Tried it on my 7.5' with a fortec ultra and have a good lock at 73% quality.

I have adjusted the F/D and center of the dish. Can't lift up or down to get it better.

I wonder if I need a better c-band lnb. I bought the "corotor pack" and the c band lnb is a dms international 211 or 311 or something like that.

The ku is an eagle aspen.

Would a better c-band lnb help with the 7/8 fec stuff?


Something else I noticed: The focal length to 1/4" inside the feed horn is 45 5/8" on my 10' sami. When I mounted the scalar ring on the struts and put the feed horn in the scalar set at .38, the focal length didn't come out right.

So in order to set the focal length at 45 5/8 to 1/4" inside the feed horn, the scalar is now on .34 f/d on the feed horn marks.

Does this mean that I need to set the assembly to .38 and then space the scalar back with longer bolts and washers?
I am assuming the scalar and feed horn work together as one unit cancelling out of focus sidelobes out.

 

[gpat]

I may be wrong on this but I dont think the scalar ring needs to be dead on like the feedhorn should be.Why else would it be adjustable.
Glad to hear you got good results.
Ive been spoiled with good LNBs for so long I have nothing to compare to.
Recently my 17 * cal amp gave out and I had to replace it with same only in a 20*
as thats all I had. I can tell a difference.

 

[truckracer]

I had a 13 degree Astrotel C-band lnbf that would easily lock the 7/8 fec tp's that are kind of hard to get. This lnb on the corotor is a 20 degree I think.
That could be the difference.


It is kind of tough to get used to scanning one polarity at a time and remembering to flip the channel on the analog receiver.
I ended up with one satellite that has the same tp's on both H and V- LOL.

 

[tvropro]

I had a 13 degree Astrotel C-band lnbf that would easily lock the 7/8 fec tp's that are kind of hard to get. This lnb on the corotor is a 20 degree I think.
That could be the difference.

I have a 19 year old 40 degree California Amplifier LNB. I lock the 7/8 FEC just fine. It's best you get a good quality LNB like Cal Amp or Norsat. When buying an LNB make sure it's got good stability + or - 500 or better on frequency drift. Some of the older name brand LNB's work better than most of these new cheapies you see around.

 

[turbosat]

Truckracer it sounds like your polarity motor isn't able to turn far enough if you aren't getting both polarities on G3. Were you on your true south sat when you installed the corotor? I think the trick is to point the polarity motor's arrow to 11oclock, or that's what I remember reading someplace. Works for me.

 

[truckracer]

This is the first servo controlled feed horn I have ever set up. I am pretty sure I did get close. I had the dish at zenith point on true south and held the instructions up and positioned the assembly like in the picture provided.

My analog receiver under "skew" settings shows (skew 0) or (skew -20) etc.
Should my skew have been on "0" for peaking the position of the feed horn?
Also should the skew be on "0" for all sats just for the polarity to be straight up (kind if like if I was running an lnbf)?
I noticed on this analog receiver that on different sats the default skew is all over the place.
Is this normal or do I need to make all the skew adjustments go to "0" for every sat and fine tune from there?

 

[Hermitman]

If the feedhorn is installed as per the instructions, then just skew till you get the best signal and enjoy the program. Good luck.

 

[tdti1]

Personally not a fan of the lnb's mentioned but a 7/8 fec not coming in mostly comes down to improper feed adjustment or dish alignment, a warped reflector also can cause issues, if you have the specs of your dish and all is set proper you can try moving the feed in and out slightly to see if this helps, if you do not have the specs it's time to do measurements and make sure all is set properly.

 

[truckracer]

I probably need to center the feed more accurately. I won't have to do any dish re alignment since all i did was swap the feed horns. I was locking the 7/8 stuff before the swap with an Astrotel lnbf.

I did the F/D adjustment but still couldn't get it. this weekend when I am off work saturday I wll tune it a little more.

My ku band is tremendously strong on this 10' dish. I was thinking if my focal point was off Ku would suffer much more than C band. What do you guys think.

BTW, I noticed just how far off on the feed support struts center is on my dish.
One strut has the bolt bottomed out in the slot while the adjacent strut has the bolt in the center of the slots.

I am getting almost identical measurements from the edge of the dish to the edge of the scalar ring at three point.

For the newbies......Don't ever think everything is equal because the slots in the feed support struts have the bolts in the same positions.

I am surprised that manufacturing specs would not somehow be tighter on these dishes so the center would already be configured for you.

 

[tdti1]

Hmm, well make sure the feed is center, this is very important, one thing with these feeds is some times when you tighten it, it may tighten crooked, sometimes it's a pain to get it straight.

 

[truckracer]

Yes I did notice that and I think mine is crooked.

 

[gpat]

you may want to make an alignment tool like I did.

Its a PIT@ to set up but when done its square and centered.


Did you get a cardboard alignment jig with your new co rotor?

 

[truckracer]

No cardboard jig came with mine.
I just did the true south 11 and 5 alignment. I did notice that to get the best signal i set the F/D to .34 instead of my dish's recommended .38

I just didn't get good signal quality at .38