LNBF for Analog receiver

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John Popper

SatelliteGuys Pro
Original poster
Dec 11, 2009
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Central Mexico
hello, I just bought this C/Ku LNBF 2-D dedicated from DMS international (advertised as suitable for digital AND analog) and I am trying to connect it to my Uniden UST 2300 receiver but I am having difficulties getting it to show me odd and even channel numbers. This LNB comes with something called a dielectric plate for "circular polarized signals" (I am from the old school of servo motors so I don't know if this is supposed to serve the same function) so I set this thing up as it is shown in the manual but something's wrong with the polarity. For instance I am in Satellite AMC 10 testing it on channels 9 and 10 (QVC and HSN), with the dielectric plate inserted I get a bad signal on both channels, as soon as I take it off I get a good signal on channel 10 but NO signal on channel 9. What am I doing wrong? is this thing even suitable for the old receiver I have?
btw and as y'all probably noticed already I am way behind on this digital/analog stuff since it's been like 7 years since I used this dish.
Thanks for your help!




here are some pics of the hardware im using








 
dielectric plate for "circular polarized signals" Amc 10 is linear so no plate needed. I think there are only a few circular C-band satellite,but I can't think of which one's they are. circular =right and left, Linear = horizontal and vertical
 
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most older analog receivers wont work with LNBF's....as in they cant change polarity. You're probably getting Horizontal polarity only.

I've seen that on my old Toshiba TRX1420. I can get TP17 on G4 (99W) but not 16 (which is Shepherd's Chapel). You can hook the LNB up to a DVB receiver that can change polarity and just slave the analog to it.
 
1) take out the dielectric plate. As noted, it's for circular signals, and that's not what you're dealing with.

2) see if the receiver has a mode to handle an electrically switchable LNB for polarity.
About 13 volts for Vertical, and around 18 volts for horizontal, as I recall.
That's what the 621 requires.

edit: well, I guess I came too late to the party! See all answers above. :)
 
As far as only getting channel 10 and not 9,one is H polarity and the other is V polarity.So you need to check the setup in your receiver and set it up for voltage controlled polarity. To me it sound's like it's still setup for lnb servo controlled,and that means it outputs 18volts all the time,instead of switching between 18volt and 13volts.
Hope this helps.
 
Thanks for answering folks!

Someone is offering to sell me a Viewsat-Lite like the one seen on this site:

Viewsat Viewsat-Lite

My question is, do you think this receiver can help me change the polarity like Iceberg says and slave the analog receiver to it that way I can get both H and V polarity?
Another question, do you all recommend I do away with the dielectric plate? I'm only interested in the old analog channels on C Band and on the FTA channels available using C Band and KU band

Thanks again!
 
You should be able to find a Coolsat 5000 or 6000 on eBay or elsewhere for under $50 delivered.
Those two Coolsat models seem to be a favorite with the members here.
They both came in silver or black.
The difference between 5000 and 6000 is just memory (which made more sense for hackers than FTAers).
In other words, I'd call them functionally interchangeable.

No recommendation on the other receiver.

Pull out the di-electric plate - it is of no use to you at this time.

Yes, it'll voltage-switch the LNBF to select polarity.
It'll also control LNB switches, should you decide to use some to select among various dishes.

This may be a bit premature, but we also have a Switches Simplified FAQ for when you're ready.
 
CS6000 tips

I have a CS6000, and would give it 4 out of 5 stars, marking it down only because it has no USB port. Otherwise it is a great receiver with a fast blind scan, and logical menu system written by someone who is actually fluent in the English language.

Most used FTA receivers will need the latest OEM factory software loaded to restore them to good working condition. This purges any pirate software from them. With a USB port it's dead simple, just put the file on a USB memory stick, connect it, and load via the onscreen menu system.

CS5000/6000 software updates must be loaded from a PC with a serial port via a cable connection and a loader program on the PC. You can find the loader program and OEM receiver file on the internet.

If your PC has a serial port, and the used receiver comes with the proper cable, you should be okay.

If your PC is new enough that it doesn't have a serial port, then you must use a USB/serial port adapter, and these adapters do not always perform reliably in my experience.

BTW, my used CS6000 badly needed a reload of the OEM software when I got it.
 
You can slave the analog reciever to the Coolsat 5000. That is what I do

The Coolsat has a "loop out" which sends a signal to the analog receiver. Polarity is done via the Coolsat
 
Thanks ice, im gonna get that coolsat 6000 someone offered me, and since it will be the first time ive ever used a digital mpeg2 receiver I'm sure I will bother you guys again with questions!
 
Another question folks, the dude Im buying the Coolsat from is sending me a "SW 22KHz 21" switch instead of the Disecq 2x1 I asked for, does it serve the same purpose as the Disecq? what is the difference?

also should I connect it the same way as the disecq switch is shown in this graph if I wanna be able to watch C Band analog channels via my old Uniden unit and C/KU FTA digital ones via the Coolsat?

etf60i.jpg
 
Another question folks, since I'm gonna be using the Coolsat to change the polarity of the LNBF (as Iceberg suggested) in order to get H and V when I use my Uniden analog receiver, is it obligatory to use a "DC-block splitter" to connect from the Coolsat "loopout" into the Uniden C Band input? or would a normal coaxial cable suffice? or can I use this high frequency splitter I have already bought:


2zg6z5s.jpg
 
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