Looking for PDF Copies of Birdview Satellite AP-2028 Solid Aluminum Dish Manuals

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KI5SS

On Vacation
Original poster
May 9, 2018
29
6
Arkansas
I need PDF copies of the Owner's Manual, Parts Manual, Electrical Manual, Specifications List, etc., for the Birdview Satellite Dish Model AP-2028 with the PDF Operating Manual for the two controllers. I will be fully restoring that satellite dish for amateur radio satellite operation. My neighbor gave me his 30-year-old Birdview Satellite Dish because I am an amateur radio operator. Email the PDF manuals to me at ki5ss@yahoo(dot)com. He has not used his dish for 20 years. It had tree fungus and mold to the bowl of the dish. I used wet sandpaper with my sanding block to get it cleaned. Now I will get it sandblasted and painted.

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This might get better traction over in the FTA Forum. KE4EST do you agree?
 
I worked with a company which sold these back in the 1980's. The man for whom I worked actually at one time was VP of the company. From the consumer side, you won't find much in specs and manuals. The system, as shown, was so simple it was what we would call a "quickstart" manual the consumer was given. Basically a remote in their hand, learn to move the dish up and down (left and right on that particular positioner) which you would then learn, "Galaxy 1 is at position 09, format A"....then you'd tune through the 24 available analog channels of the day. Later, videociphers were added as an option, and the receiver you show had to sometimes have a 70 mhz loop installed for the decoder to work. Then came the black m2/m3 series of receivers with the positioner IN the receiver, but they still needed external decoders. The final chapter in the "New Birdview" company was when they stopped marketing proprietary LNB's and began using the standard 950-1450 mhz units, so users could upgrade receivers. Also at that time, the potentiometer based positioner sensor in the motor area was replaced with a reed-switch kit that would talk to the newer receivers.

There really wasn't much for consumers with regard to specs, and the company basically went bankrupt by providing the best dish out there, and spending too much shipping their own dishes and equipment with their own people....plus the units cost more than the cheaper dishes that were common at the time. It took selling QUALITY to get these into buyers' homes. Selling points were the dish quality being spun aluminim, the larger pole (you can sit in that dish when installed and not hurt it)...the top lockdown bolt in addition to the side bolts on the cap which supports the dish and motor, the 6 struts keeping the nosecone centered and in "focus" and the fact they were early dual-LNB's which provided simultaneous horizontal and vertical feeds to the receiver, in case you wanted more than one receiver in a home. (I still have some of those old dual polarity splitters somewhere.)

You have an excellent piece of hardware which will serve you well when updated and installed. Wish there was more to offer you, but I think you'll get more info from owners than in energy spent looking for documentation for the defunct company.

Hope this helps some.
 
KE4EST,

Ohhh, so that was you who deleted my "dupe" at FTA Forum. I read Foxbat's suggestion to move my post to FTA. I "duped" my post at FTA Forum. And you deleted it. I wondered what the hey happened. (LOL). No problem on the delete. Was a head scratcher for me. Looking forward to more responses HERE! This is my FIRST post to any forum here at SatelliteGuys.us. I will be posting more questions as time goes on. I hope my attached PDF is interesting for y'all even though it is intended FYI.

Your info is extremely helpful & educational. Do you have diagnostic/testing procedural info on the electrical motor unit to email me?

Don/KI5SS
 
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Welcome to SatelliteGuys!

Nice rescue! Thanks for sharing the PDF and your project. It is a fun and take warning... an addicting hobby!

A few notes about the project.

The dish may need slight declination adjustments (shims) to accurately track the arc with the HH actuator. Many dishes were installed during the era when most satellites were located in a small area of the arc and the declination setting was not as critical. Now with satellites available from the Eastern to the Western horizons and digital modulations requiring better signal quality, the declination adjustment becomes very critical.

The current mount and motor is well built and great for reception of satellite FSS programming, but a dual axis actuator would be necessary for tracking amateur radio satellites, EMI or meteor trails outside the geosynchronous. arc. You may want to build a dual axis mount if your interest is in communications.

The feedhorn and LNBs should be fine for now, but will need to be cleaned and tested. If the receiver is still working, the polarity skew motor should rotate 90 degrees when switching between an even or odd channels. The LNBs are older, but the specs are good enough for reception of most C and KU FSS services. I would recommend that you keep this feedhorn with LNBs as this provides the ability to optimize the skew on each satellite and transponder, but some hobbyists will recommend the ease of installing and operating a LNBF (receiver voltage switches between the horizontal and the vertical probes without a servo motor). While this type of feed is easier, the skew is set once during install and cannot fine-tuned for each service without manually rotating the feedhorn.

The receiver is of limited use. Not much analog on the birds anymore (C-Span and a few lottery feeds on C-band), so a new digital DVBS/S2 receiver will be in order. You could use the receiver for powering the LNBs and selecting the polarity, but this manual method will get old very fast! Suggest that a reliable and easy to operate receiver for learning the hobby is the Amiko H.265. Once you get the hang of the hobby and learn the technology, then consider upgrading to a more complex UHD STB like the VU Plus Zero 4K with Linux based Enigma 2 OS. You might be tempted to jump into buying this first, but it can quite overwhelming to operate a complex user defined STB while trying to master the basics.

The positioner unit is fine for manually moving the dish East / West, but will not interface with newer receivers. If you decide to upgrade your positioner, check the sensor type in the actuator. This may need to changed based on the positioner model or option. Some users have built some sweet high resolution optical and reed sensors.

Would recommend that for automatic control of the servo motor and dish positioning via the STB that you might consider the ASC1 positioner. The ASC1 provides LNB (or LNBF) power, supports servo motors and reed switch sensors. Add the optional OHR unit and it will also be compatible with hall effect and optical sensors.

If you wish to go a less feature ( possibly less expensive route) verify the actuator has a reed switch sensor and swap out the feedhorn to a LNBF then a G or V-box should work fine (note: G or V boxes do not have servo control and only support reed switch sensors).

There are many threads on the forum about restoring, retrofitting and upgrading the Birdview. Many talented hobbyists have identified issues and have provided many innovative solutions.

Good luck with your project. We are here to assist!
 
Difficult to post using questions and comments from a flat file (PDF). I reformatted your PDF to a more forum friendly format to reply, using the quote function to compose.

YOU STATED: “You may want to build a dual axis mount if your interest is in communications.”
MY COMMENT: The dual axis actuators would “modernize” the current HTH mount for the Birdview Satellite dish for the North/South drift of satellites in the Geoynchronous Arc and for the polar orbiting satellites (the International Space Station (ISS) for example). But this dual purposed design would require heavy duty actuators for the heavy Birdview mount and dish. This option does have my interest tweaked. I will add that to my R & D search list.
A simple addition of a short 8-12" linear actuator on a bracket controlling the declination setting could provide the ability to receive inclined orbit satellites. Not much programming on inclined satellites, but there is a small amount. Personally, I don't bother as the cost to add the hardware and additional axis positioner isn't warranted in my opinion.

Not really a modernization, just a different mechanism to meet different needs. Full range dual axis positioning is really only needed if you plan on tracking non-geosynchronous satellites, EMI, meteors, etc. Depending on the range of motion it could be a simple arrangement of two heavy duty 36" linear actuators or two two HH actuators (one for each axis). Ana example is the Venture Maxi Ball . It would have no problem swinging the Birdview around. A properly built mount will be balanced and the load will be handled by a low geared 36Vdc motor. I would chose instead to use a very light weight reflector and would suggest that the Birdview is too heavy and probably best to continue using with the existing polar tracking of geosynchronous satellites.

YOU STATED: “The feedhorn and LNBs should be fine for now.” | “cleaned and tested.” | “The LNBs are older, but the specs are good enough for reception of most C and KU FSS services.”
MY COMMENT: The current feedhorn and LNBs are contingent on what they offer in relation to my intended goals for my amateur radio communications. If the current feedhorn
and LNBs provide only a RECEIVE, and little unencrypted service of analog only satellites then I will jettison them for a feedhorn and LNB or an LNBF with receiver voltage switches between the horizontal and the vertical probes with a servo motor if such a critter exists. I prefer flexibility.

Both the current feedhorn and LNBFs would be receive only. To transmit, you would need a different rx/tx feedhorn and BUC specifically tuned for the target frequency. I am not aware of the availability of skew adjustment hardware for typical LNBFs, but hobbyists have built custom feed motors. If you want skew adjustment on a rx feedhorn, your current feedhorn is the best route. For radio communications, add another motor (or heavy duty servo) to control the third axis.

YOU STATED: “If the receiver is still working.”
MY COMMENT: I presume you are referring to the Birdview Satellite Transponder Receiver Controller IR AC 20/20 MR-20/20 pictured on page 2 of my previous attached PDF. If so, then I will have that receiver in the first week of June.

The Birdview receiver would likely only be used for testing if you want to control the current feedhorn servo motor. In my opinion, too much work to manually set the polarity each time you want to watch a channel on a different polarity transponder. You would need a chart taped to the wall to prompt you what channel (odd / even) to place the Birdview receiver on so you watch a channel on a specific transponder on the DVBS/S2 receiver. PITA.....

YOU STATED: “polarity skew motor should rotate 90 degrees when switching between an even or odd channels.”
MY COMMENT: I presume you are talking about the arc of the dish. The Arc of the Covenant is a good movie (humor). If you are talking about the arc of the dish then I direct your attention to www.satelliteguys.us/xen/threads/more-findings-to-make-you-jealous-birdview.363335/

No, most satellites have two polarities. With North American FSS, we typically receive Horizontal and a Vertical (folks in the Eastern US can receive circular left/right from the Atlantic satellites). Uplinkers typically balance and coordinate with adjacent satellites the transponder frequencies and balance the load between the two polarities. To receive all channels on each satellite, the feed is switched between two polarities. Your current feed uses a servo motor to manually flip a probe between the two polarities and adjust any skew offset. A LNBF electronically switches between probes and there is no electronic or servo fine-tuning of the skew.

YOU STATED: “I would recommend that you keep this feedhorn with LNBs as this provides the ability to optimize the skew on each satellite and transponder, but some hobbyists will recommend the ease of installing and operating a LNBF (receiver voltage switches between the horizontal and the vertical probes without a servo motor). While this type of feed is easier, the skew is set once during install and cannot fine-tuned for each service without manually rotating the feedhorn.”
MY COMMENT: I prefer to fine-tune for each service by “automatically rotating the feedhorn” if that feature is available. Are there products for this feature?

Your current feedhorn has a small servo motor on the back (usually blue color) that rotates the probe inside of the feed when the Birdog receiver changes polarity (odd / even channels) and / or adjusts the skew to optimize reception. New receivers no longer have the ability to control this servo motor and a third party controller interfaces between a DVBS/S2 STB and the servo. The ASC1 has the ability to control this servo motor and translate the voltage commands from a DVBS/S2 STB to propery select the correct polarity and adjust the skew if needed.

YOU STATED: “The receiver is of limited use. Not much analog on the birds anymore (C-Span and a few lottery feeds on C-band), so a new digital DVBS/S2 receiver will be in order.”
MY COMMENT: I presume you are referring to the pictured receiver on page 2 of my previous attached PDF. I suspected that the receiver would not be of much use. But it is the receiver for the Birdview Satellite Dish. I will order the receive for historical purposes (antiques are antiques). I will add the new digital DVBS/S2 receiver to my R & D search list.

Correct

YOU STATED: “Suggest that a reliable and easy to operate receiver for learning the hobby is the Amiko H.265. Once you get the hang of the hobby and learn the technology, then consider upgrading to a more complex UHD STB like the VU Plus Zero 4K with Linux based Enigma 2 OS. You might be tempted to jump into buying this first, but it can quite overwhelming to operate a complex user defined STB while trying to master the basics.”
MY COMMENT: I cannot afford to spend money twice. I prefer to “jump” into buying the more complex UHB STB like the Plus Zero 4K with Linux based Enigma 2 OS but I am running Windows 10. Is there a suitable product for Windows 10?

The VU Plus Zero 4k is the best UHD 4K receiver currently available. The OS is Enigma 2 (many images available) and can be quite challenging for even an experienced user. I would certainly not recommend... Since the Amiko H.265 is less than $100 and the Zero 4K is about $180b shipped from Europe, it really isn't that expensive. If the Amiko is not abused, it should be worth $50-$75 on the used market in a year.

There are great DVBS/S2 PCIe tuner cards and I use the TBS 6983 for testi8ng and analysis. There are a few newer models with more bells and whistles. Once again, so many user options and software options that it will be much more difficult to get your system up and running because everything must be configured by the user, nothing preconfigured and there are little quirks that many of us have discovered over the years and found work arounds... Once again, start simple... It will be hard enough without making it even more difficult!

YOU STATED: “The positioner unit is fine for manually moving the dish East / West, but will not interface with newer receivers. If you decide to upgrade your positioner, check the sensor type in the actuator. This may need to changed based on the positioner model or option. Some users have built some sweet high resolution optical and reed sensors.”
MY COMMENT: So, that confirms the necessity to buy a new receiver for today’s satellites. I presume, by your use of “positioner” you are referring to the Horizon-To-Horizen mount. If so, then that is also something that I presumed. I will add high resolution optical and reed sensors to my R & D search list.

Correct

YOU STATED: “Would recommend that for automatic control of the servo motor and dish positioning via the STB that you might consider the ASC1 positioner. The ASC1 provides LNB (or LNBF) power, supports servo motors and reed switch sensors. Add the optional OHR unit and it will also be compatible with hall effect and optical sensors.”
MY COMMENT: STB, ASC1 Positioner, Servo Motors, Reed Switch Sensors, Optional OHR Unit, Hall Effect and Optical Sensors are things I will have to study up on, learn all about them, and evaluate them for upgrading purposes for my Birdview Satellite Dish.

:)

YOU STATED: “If you wish to go a less feature (possibly less expensive route) verify the actuator has a reed switch sensor and swap out the feedhorn to a LNBF then a G or V-box should work fine (note: G or V boxes do not have servo control and only support reed switch sensors).
MY COMMENT: G or V boxes are not compatible with the amateur radio communications goals.

The ASC1 wouldn't be too compatible with radio communication goals either. The hardware and protocols for radio communications are much different than those used for TVRO systems.

YOU STATED: “There are many threads on the forum about restoring, retrofitting and upgrading the Birdview. Many talented hobbyists have identified issues and have provided many innovative solutions.”
MY COMMENT: Give me the list of those forums! That’s what I need! More information!
THANKS!

Satelliteguys forum! You will find mach information is similar for the AJAK HH systems and will be a great resource.
www.google.com/search?q=satelliteguys+ajak+birdview+site:www.satelliteguys.us
 
DON HAMRICK/KI5SS

MY PROJECT: Converting my newly acquired 30-year-old Birdview Satellite Dish (AR-2028) (solid aluminum dish) from a TV Receive Only Dish to an Amateur Radio Satellite Communications Dish.

I THANK AI6US FOR THE INFORMATION HE PROVIDED IN MY PREVIOUS POSTING.

From the information I got from AI6US, I decided to start with what I am familiar with from my 19 years as a merchant seaman traveling all over the world: Volumes 1 and 2 of The American Practical Navigator (also known as Bowditch). See h*ttp*s://msi.nga.mil/NGAPortal/MSI.portal?_nfpb=true&_pageLabel=msi_portal_page_62&pubCode=0002

I recommend downloading the high resolution versions of the two volumes. Volume 2 has the Mathematical and Navigational Tables with the equations. Back in my 20's (I am now age 62) I programmed my old Texas Instruments programmable calculator (TI-95) for celestial navigation. I was successful programming the calculations. But I never could trap the infinity error that would put the TI-95 into the error mode. (LOL).

Those two volumes will give me the mathematical certainty to calculate the Azimuths and Elevations for the converted Birdview Satellite AR-2028. I plan to limit my targeted satellites to geostationary Amateur Radio Satellites & the non-geostationary orbital path of the International Space Station (ISS) for transmitting and receiving and maybe other satellites for receive only, like NOAA GOES satellites.

From the information supplied by AI6US I am now compiling my R & D plan for the conversion. My first mechanical problem to solve is the Azimuth & Elevation mechanics for the Horizon-to-Horizon or Gimballed Mount for the Birdview Satellite dish. That includes heavy duty actuators. It will most likely include welding for the elevation mechanics conversion of the Birdview mount. I may have to use Google's SketchUp software for the design process. SketchUp is another something new I will have to learn. The learning never stops! Argghh!

I just now got an email response from Pipe & Tube Supply about the replacement of the steel pipe. My question back to them:

I presume the 6" od x .250 wall dom x 20' rl 1026 carbon steel 37.02/ft = $740.40.

0.25 = 1/4 inch wall thickness. If yes, that's what I had hoped for.

QUESTION: With 5 feet of that 20 feet of pipe (vertical) in the ground as a mast with an 8.5 feet solid aluminum satellite dish (15 feet above ground), do I presume correctly that the steel pipe will not be vulnerable to bending from wind gusts?
I had hoped for a 16 ft length of pipe that would give me the 11 ft of height for the dish. But the 20 ft length of pipe would give me a 15 ft height for the dish. Will that height be stable with the dish on top without wind-forcement movement (wobble)?


 
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From the information I got from AI6US, I decided to start with what I am familiar with from my 19 years as a merchant seaman traveling all over the world: Volumes 1 and 2 of The American Practical Navigator (also known as Bowditch). See h*ttp*s://msi.nga.mil/NGAPortal/MSI.portal?_nfpb=true&_pageLabel=msi_portal_page_62&pubCode=0002

I recommend downloading the high resolution versions of the two volumes. Volume 2 has the Mathematical and Navigational Tables with the equations. Back in my 20's (I am now age 62) I programmed my old Texas Instruments programmable calculator (TI-95) for celestial navigation. I was successful programming the calculations. But I never could trap the infinity error that would put the TI-95 into the error mode (Trigonomety or Logarithmic Function of Trig values that go to infinity, I can't recall with without exploring the functions). (LOL).

Those two volumes will give me the mathematical certainty to calculate the Azimuths and Elevations for the converted Birdview Satellite AR-2028.

VOLUME 1 – Chapter 13 Navigation Astronomy, pp. 215-257 (See: Measurements on the Celestial Sphere, pp. 233-242)

VOLUME 2 – Explanation of Navigation Tables –
Mathematical Tables, pp. 1 – 2;
Cartographic Tables, pp. 2 – 5;
Celestial Navigation Tables (equation), pp. 5 – 7;
Table 20 Meridian Angle and Altitude of a Body on the Prime Vertical Circle (Tabulations, p. 118). (Satellite Dish Pointing)
Meteorological Tables, pp. 7 – 9
Table 35 Relative Humdity;
Table 36 Dew Point

I got a confirmation on the equation for Relative Humidity and Dew Point from NOAA/National Weather Service to program my Texas Intstruments TI-95. I succeeded! I did this just for the fun of it and for educational purposes.
 
main-qimg-a6c9586357ed6e5092836591c92a6edb

This is the Azimuth & Elevation System I am looking for (in design). I will find or fabricate a simplified design for my Birdview Satellite Dish. (I HOPE, ANYWAY). Now, I have to decide actuators or gears for the movement of my dish. Either way, it is going to involve designing, fabricating & welding. No way to avoid using Google's SketchUp now! :eeek


STARTING POINT FOR SIMPLIFICATION: AUTOMOTIVE DIFFFERENTIAL
differential-388x250.jpg


Then I will venture out to a more practical gear system. I might have to use the gears and bearings from automotive differentials as I develop my design.

HERE'S AN IDEA!

images


Hand Crank It! (ROFLMAO). :clapping:oldno

----------------


COUNTER-WEIGHT SYSTEM FOR THE BIRDVIEW SATELLITE DISH

That's something else I will have to add to my design.

BEST ADAPTABLE GIMBAL DESIGN FOR BIRDVIEW SATELLITE DISH:

THE 3-AXIS GIMBAL
2MP_Camera_3.6-40M-IR-TURRET.png
 
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I SELECTED A FREE 3D CAD PROGRAM FROM A LIST OF
30 BEST FREE CAD SOFTWARE TOOLS
FROM BEGINNERS TO PROFESSIONALS


30 Best Free CAD Software Tools (2D/3D CAD Programs) | All3DP


I did not select SketchUp. I selected an advanced freemium (free to amateur hobbyists) program, Onshape. Onshape has an online traning course of 6 topics to get you certified ready to use the Onshape 3D CAD software: (1) Navigating Onshape; (2). Sketching; (3) Part Design Using Part Studios; (4). Multi-Part Part Studioes; (5) Onshape Assemblies; (6). Detailed Drawings.

I like the introductory training. I am going with Onshape to convert the Birdview Satellite Dish's Horizon-to-Horizon (HTH) mount to a 3-Axis mount by adding axle bearings and an actuator arm as AI6US suggested / OR / a simplified version of the 3-axis gimbal shown above whichever is easier, cheaper, and/or more efficient to convert the TVRO dish to an amateur radio satellite communications dish. I will try different designs just to see the differences. My instincts tell me the AI6US's suggestion is going to be the best suggestion. My instincts are leaning in that direction. (Occam's Razor). For fun I want to see how well an automotive or an 18-wheeler's differential will work as part of a gimbal.
 
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I KNEW WHAT I WAS LOOKING FOR!
I'VE SEEN IT HUNDREDS OF TIMES!
BUT I COULDN'T PUT MY FINGER ON IT! UNTIL NOW! (CRANES!)

THE SLEWING BEARING
WD-H Heavy-Duty Worm Gear Slew Drives
WD-H+Worm+Gear+Slew+Drive%C2%A0Product+Description.png

THIS IS THE PERFECT PART FOR THE CONVERSION.
I JUST DON'T KNOW HOW MUCH IT COSTS AT THIS TIME.
Slewing Bearings will negate the Birdview Satellite Dish's original HTH mount altogether.

A set of these Slewing Bearings will solve the Azimuth & Elevation mechanics. The next stage will be the motors to control the slewing gears. Then it's circuit boards, a control box, switches, etc. A U-shaped square steel tubing for the Elevation with a round pipe with thrust bearings is next. Then a round steel plate for the base platform to mount that U-shaped square tubing with the Azimuth slewing bearing under that steel plate sandwiched in between another steel plate.

I will have to add a STOP switch to stop the Azimuth at 360 degrees of turn and two STOP switches to stop the Elevation at 0 ~ 5 degrees and at 95 ~ 100 degrees of vertical arc.

I ordered the company's catalog.

MORE CHOICES.
 
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I used the online Trig Calculator to work up this graphic presentation for my Birdview Satellite Dish "line of sight" to most of the celestial sky. I need a graphic presentation to present to home owners & the land owners to explain my need for a clear line of sight to the geostationary satellites and to the polar orbiting satellites. This graphic presentation simplifies my leg work. It should work in theory. The 50 ft is the height of the trees that will need to be clipped short or cut down completely. A sawmill owner cut down the pines on my property (green circle). He took the trunks for payment and left the branches for me to clean up. That was last year. I had to wait for the branches and pine needles to dry out dead brown. I am down to the final burn now.

upload_2018-5-22_1-3-35.png

There are 4 piles in the photo. The two piles on the left appear to be one pile. Pile #5 is behind me. That long galvanized steel pipe has been useful in moving the big logs. And my 20 foot, double-looped, nylon tow strap was also useful. I would loop and tie the pipe to the large logs to get extreme leverage.

upload_2018-5-22_1-10-43.png

I have been thinking about trimming my beard. I was going for a ZZ Top beard. That is a clean T-shirt. My T-shirts and jeans get repeatingly dirtier than my face during the burn stage of clearing the pine trees on my 95 feet X 100 feet undeveloped residential property. I am doing R & D to find out the best way to remove the pine tree stumps other than digging the stumps out (cutting the main downward root at a foot or two below ground. Manual labor all the way so far. Can't afford the optional choices. I have a 3-wire, vertically parallel, NVIS square HF antenna for my Flex Radio 1500 (QRP) ready to raise as soon as I clear my property.

my-ham-radios.png


I have not bought the antennas for the Kenwood yet. Trying to decided between a vertical dual band antenna or separate beam antennas.

I am working as fast as I can to prepare my ground for my amateur radios and the Birdview Satellite Dish.

upload_2018-5-22_1-26-14.png


A car body shop nearby has sandblasting gear. His price is about $125. He suggested that since my dish is aluminum that I buy Aircraft Paint Remover available at a car detailing shop nearby. Simplier, easier, and far cheaper. I will compare that Aircraft Paint Remover with CitriStrip paint remover available at Lowe's.

upload_2018-5-22_1-33-22.png


Whichever one is the best is what I will use.

The dish does have a bullet hole. I will get that fixed or just leave it as is.

Don Hamrick
 
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Keep up the good work! :) One thing though. Secure the dish. A brief little bit of wind can judo flip that dish and turn it into no more than a crushed beer can in nothing flat. I seen it done with a spun aluminum dish I brought home once. ;)
 
Won't flip! I will buy a replacement 6 inch steel pipe (not decided on the length yet) with 5 feet of that pipe in the ground.
 
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