Measuring Actuator Stroke Length.

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coinmaster32

SatelliteGuys Pro
Original poster
Sep 25, 2010
916
14
USA
I had 3 crappy actuators, one with a fubar thread rod, one with a burnt up motor, and one with a bad tube.

I made one good one out of 3, but now I need to set the internal limits, which must be done on this type of actuator.

I need to make sure it extends to 24". But what I need to know is if when you measure the actuator, is it from:

A. The end of the outer (non moving) tube to the end of the eye (part the bolt goes through to the mount)
B. The end of the outer tube to the end of the inner tube where the eye screws in.
 
Do you have one with the internal limit switches still intact? If so, compare that one to your "new" one and
try to match them as best you can. Tiny little movements of the cams can mean several inches of travel on the arm.

I don't think the actual measurements are as important as having the arm extend and retract without binding or
bottoming out at the ends of the threads. Setting the internal limits properly, will ensure the motor stops running
before the machine destroys itself.

With the screw and arm tube disconnected from the base, run the motor in the direction to retract. When the
motor stops on it's own, this will be the retracted limit. Take note of which switch is making contact.

Reattach the screw to the drive shaft and spin the arm tube (nut) all the way down the screw by hand, but leave
at least one or two threads visible for slack (the switches don't always open or close at the exact same spot every time).

Now, run the motor to fully extend the arm while preventing the arm from turning, and adjust the other switch's
cam until the outer sleeve will fit comfortably back in place.

A bit of tweaking and adjusting to safely get maximum travel, and you'll be good to go!

In the meantime, keep your eyes open for more "spare" actuators! I've got 4 of them in the back shed.

I hope this helps, best of luck!
 
You are right. A hair movement on the cam equals a good inch on the shaft tube. I tinkered with it over 2 hours to get it somewhat decent. It still goes out past 24". Maybe half an inch? But I compared the the amount of slack when the tube was out 22" and its the same as being out 24.5", and there is still plenty of thread left. I will get the motor hooked up, move the dish max east and west to make sure there is no binding. These Von Weise Actuators suck, you can't just replace the motor unit like some, you have to unthread the motor out.

Hopefully I will be able to get another year or so out of this, then spend $50 and get a new one.
 
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Now I am wondering If my actuator is shot. When I have it extended 24" out, and until it's about 15" in, the inner tube is very sloppy. There is also about a 1/4 of an inch of end play (how much the tube slides in and out).
 
Looking for a actuator.

Before I buy a new one. I was wondering if anyone had a 18 to 24" actuator.

Does not have to be perfect. A little rust is ok. Needs to have a magnet wheel sensor, a very common type, the pot and optical type won't work with my postioner.

If anyone has one, let me know! :)
 
These Von Weise Actuators suck, you can't just replace the motor unit like some, you have to unthread the motor out.
Hopefully I will be able to get another year or so out of this, then spend $50 and get a new one.

I must respectfully disagree. Compared to today's cheaply made plastic geared underpowered crap the Von Weise is a good actuator. It may not be the best but.... I have a used one that probably is 25 years old and is still in daily service. With some proper maintenance and TLC it easily outperforms most new models. I've seen numerous threads where members are complaining that they have newer actuators that have broken/frozen plastic gears, motors/gears that make more noise than their car etc. I'd like to see how well the actuators made in the last 5 years are performing when/if they reach the age my Von Weise is.
 
I got off the phone with von weise. They said the nylon nut inside the inner tube may be broken contributing to the slop. They are also going to check to see if they have a few other parts I need like the updated 8 magnet wheel, and the electrical wire feed through that screws into the end plate. If the parts total less then the price of a used actuator, I might rebuild this one.
 
18" actuator Ok for 7.5 foot dish?

Is a 18" actuator good enough for a 7.5 foot dish or should I get a 24"? If you say a 24"..why?

Thanks.
 
No name actuator?

Anyone ever had one of these before, and if so are they worth the money?

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I did do a search. No dedicated reviews, just a few people asking about it, or how to fix it.
 
Now after doing some google magic there appears to be two brands of these actuators. One is SuperJack the other is SuperpowerJack.
 
merged 3 threads together

seriously dude....keep the same topic posts in one thread. It is sooooooooooooooo much easier to follow along.
 
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