OTHER Need recommendation on multi-receiver switch

[comfortably_numb]

So this handles one LNB. You have other LNBs and a C-band dish almost installed. How will you incorporate additional LNBs to this multi-receiver configuration?

The LNB on the 90cm dish will stay separate. It has its own dedicated line.

Might do the same for C-band, but if a diseqc switch is incorporated, I believe it goes in-line before the 4-way switch.

 

[cyberham]

... but if a diseqc switch is incorporated, I believe it goes in-line before the 4-way switch.

This is how I could do for my C-band and Ku-band dishes. Normally you put a diseqc switch after the motor so the motor current doesn't go through the switch. But in this case, the diseqc switch would be in front of the Ku motor and motor current would flow through the diseqc switch.

 

[a33]

But in this case, the diseqc switch would be in front of the Ku motor and motor current would flow through the diseqc switch.

I don't know which "this case" you mean? A setup like receivers - splitter - motor - diseqcswitch - LNBs would be possible, I guess.
But you seem to mean something different?

Apart from that, you can always create a "parallel" motor path, parallel to a diseqc switch + LNBs path. I have that for years, now. Though then you'd have to find the right splitter for that setup; not easy.

Greetz,
A33

 

[TRG]

To this day, I prefer to physically change cables to accomplish using different dishes with multiple receivers.

AND make sure the receivers are powered down before making changes. You don't want to see that dreaded spark and then poof.

 

[cyberham]

I guess this would work:

4 receivers - splitter - Ku motor - diseqcswitch -
Ku LNB(diseqcswitch port 1)
C LNB (diseqcswitch port 2)

The Ku motor will only move when the Master receiver is first used. One must first always use the Master to get the polarization signal correct for the Slave receivers. For blind scans, you first scan on one polarity then scan again on the other polarity switching back and forth between Master and Slaves.

 

[a33]

The Ku motor will only move when the Master receiver is first used.

Or, when you don't use the 4 receivers simultaneously, use a splitter with 4 diodes (power pass one way), and all 4 receivers can be "master" at their own time (also over the motor).
Or, use three 2/1 priority switches (cascaded), and create a master - 2nd - 3rd - slave order for which receiver can have control in specific situations.
Do the receivers have a loop-through port? Then no splitter is needed. (I don't remember if this might also work, when the loopthrough receiver is cut off from power?)

Greetz,
A33

 

[arlo]

Then there's the DPP-44 dilemma. Conceptual probably. Running multiple FTA receivers all at once can be a pickle.
If anyone has three single or twin tuner E2 receivers and wishes to try an experiment.
Use client mode on the remote receivers. See if setting up the master receiver right and put it in standby mode (important). Then see if the client receivers are able to tune an entire satellite independently.
If the master is not in standby. Then you will only be able to view the currently tuned transponder the master is currently on with the client.
It works great with my mio4k as master and Zgemma H7 as client in another room through wifi.

The Europeans are using unicable stuff all over the place. But there goes blindscan again.
A bit of house keeping on one that does scan and adding those new tp's to the satellite.xml and distributing to the other receivers over FTP would fix that. Or simply setting up a channel editor and writing the channels to the other receivers.

If a splitter works as kind of a kludge. And if the wifey in the living room doesn't mind not being able to watch her shows while you hog the signal in the other room. Well cool!
That would drive me knutz and finding a fix would make for brain stew.
I'm pretty sure life would be easier and a better solution could be had by just running another coax or two, perhaps a cable for DC out to the dish.
So far for me. One coax for lnbf signals and one for DC. To get both C & KU I would need another run of coax to move the multiswitch inside.
Once you realize that voltage controlled polarity lnbf's obviously cant be controlled by two voltage levels on a coax.
Higher always wins. And the possibility of multiple 22 kHz signals. Which diseqc signals are multiplexed on.
There can be only one winner on a single run of coax for the standard non-unicable system. And that winner is the receiver you're currently using.

Awhile back armed with a pack of DC blocking F connectors and a DPP-44 within my reach.
A lot of thinking was going on. I already knew that DN multi lnbf's could be power inserted through port 1.
Doing that kept me from frying the tuners in my chinabox receivers at the time. And fry they did! A single didn't hurt them. A twin, hot hot. A triple? *poof*.

Then remembering a post from several years got the gears spinning. Can the DPP-44 use standard diseqc commands? And if backfeeding 20+ volts to a receiver will kill it. Block the DC and pass diseqc.
Gears!

From terryl years ago:

The DC power inserters used for the DPP44 switch have been found to be non compatible with most FTA receivers, this due to the internal workings of these devices and the loads they put on the internal tuners in the FTA receiver.

The Dish OEM receiver detects this power inserter (if needed) and adjusts for it, the standard FTA receiver dose not, it does not have the software do do so.

In most cases the inserter may look like it it is working fine with the FTA receiver, however over time there could be some sort of internal damage to the FTA receiver.

Remeber these power inseters were designed to be used with Dish or Bell OEM receivers, they (Dish or Bell) don't care what happens to a different type of receiver if used with their equipment, it was designed to be used with their stuff only.

The DPP44 switch when fully utilized (4 DP type LNBs attached and up to 4 receivers attached) needs at least 1 amp at 20 volts DC to run right, the DP power inserter will do this.

So the best and safest way to run a DPP 44 switch with it's DC power inserter is to use a second coax from the DP power inserter out to the #1 port on the DPP44 switch, and do not run a receiver off the receiver port on the power inserter.

When the DPP44 switch is powered externaly by it's supplied power inserter it will act just like any normal Diseqc switch, Receiver ports on the switch will run any normal FTA receiver.

However the LNB input ports on the DPP 44 switch will only work with DP or DPP type LNB's, they will not work too good on standard or legacy LNB's, only Dish or Bell LNB's, this because the DPP44 switch does not use +13 and +18 volt switching to go between the "H" and "V" transponders, it supply's a constant DC voltage (about 20 volts DC) to run the LNB's.

The #2, #3 and #4 receiver ports on the DPP44 switch will not draw DC power from an attached receiver when the DC power inserter is used, so it is best to use these ports for an attached FTA receiver.