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Cleaned a few wasp nest out of the feed horn yesterday. I'll have to get a cap and new cover assembly to replace the brittle deteriorating one I have.

Today I finish pouring the concrete to include filling the pipe with concrete as well. I had some help so we reassemble the dish too. Next week I'll check the dish for warp and adjust it if needed. The horn rods need refinishing and the dish needs pressure washing. Getting closer...

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It looks like a lot of trees around you. What is your line of site like?
You look to be 60 feet if not more from the house.
 
It looks like a lot of trees around you. What is your line of site like?
You look to be 60 feet if not more from the house.
Yes I'm in a heavily wooded area on 6+ acres. I used an satellite finder app to locate the spot that would minimize any tree clearing necessary to view the most satellites. The path that was viewed on the app showed only 3 to 4 trees would need to be cleared to hit many satellites. The distance from satellite to house is 91 feet.
 
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I pressure washed the dish this weekend while the weather was decent. I'll pick up some stain remover for the rust marks from the feedhorn support rods. The rods have been reconditioned and should prevent any future staining. I'm trying to find a feedhorn cover but not having any luck. Any Ideas on where to get one? Most sites are out of stock.

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Tax refund finally in so I can move forward. I've been clearing trees on the weekends to get a better view of the birds. The first piece of hardware I ordered yesterday was the ASC1 Satellite Dish DiSEqC Positioner with Polarity and Skew Control from Titanium. I want to finish setting up/dialing in the dish and this is the mover that looks to get the most out of my set up. With no knowledge of the status of the feed horn assembly or dish actuator, I'm going to get a satellite meter/finder. With these two pieces of hardware I should be able to confirm that everything is working (or not) and move on from that point.

I'm looking for a meter/finder that will allow me to fine tune my set up. Perhaps something like the SH-800HD Signal Digital SAT Finder.
I want one that can view the channels and has HDMI out to hook up a larger monitor.

I would really appreciate some input on meters/finders before I purchase one.

Thanks.
 
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I highly recommend using the meter in a receiver to install a motorized system. The only difference is that you will need a small TV near the dish as you make adjustments. Much easier to aim the dish and use the receiver to control, program and synchronize the receiver and positioner at the same time!

Check out the Amiko mini HD RE from NC-electronics. Good quality unit with excellent motor control.
 
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I highly recommend using the meter in a receiver to install a motorized system. The only difference is that you will need a small TV near the dish as you make adjustments. Much easier to aim the dish and use the receiver to control, program and synchronize the receiver and positioner at the same time!

Check out the Amiko mini HD RE from NC-electronics. Good quality unit with excellent motor control.

Thanks Brian, that's good to know and makes sense.
 
Drive the dish to the lowest level on the Eastern horizon, reset the ASC1 position count to 0000 and set the actuator's East mechanical limit switch. Drive the dish slightly past the estimated lowest satellite position on the Western horizon and set the actuator's West mechanical limit switch. These switch settings are very important to prevent damage to the actuator or dish. I would print a list of visible satellites and write a sequential motor assignment number beside each satellite across the arc that you wish to program.

Use the receiver's DiSEqC 1.2 motor control install menu to drive the actuator back to position the dish at the center of the arc, then locate the satellite nearest your longitude and select an active transponder. Once the satellite is located and the position optimized (use the ASC1 skew controls to optimize the horizontal and vertical polarity angle of the feedhorn servo motor), assign the satellite's position number in the receiver's DiSEqC 1.2 menu then "save" using the receiver. This will save the same motor assignment number and synchronize both the receiver and the ASC1.
 
Drive the dish to the lowest level on the Eastern horizon, reset the ASC1 position count to 0000 and set the actuator's East mechanical limit switch. Drive the dish slightly past the estimated lowest satellite position on the Western horizon and set the actuator's West mechanical limit switch. These switch settings are very important to prevent damage to the actuator or dish. I would print a list of visible satellites and write a sequential motor assignment number beside each satellite across the arc that you wish to program.

Use the receiver's DiSEqC 1.2 motor control install menu to drive the actuator back to position the dish at the center of the arc, then locate the satellite nearest your longitude and select an active transponder. Once the satellite is located and the position optimized (use the ASC1 skew controls to optimize the horizontal and vertical polarity angle of the feedhorn servo motor), assign the satellite's position number in the receiver's DiSEqC 1.2 menu then "save" using the receiver. This will save the same motor assignment number and synchronize both the receiver and the ASC1.

Sounds simple enough. I'll reference this info when I start to set everything up. The actuator is a SuperJack XL H8 and looks to be 24V. I'm hoping it's in good operating shape.

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Today I adjusted the dish so that it was true and not warped. I used 4 straps instead of string to align and tweak. This made it a breeze to do.
Now when I sight it in, it's visually true.

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Next I adjusted the dish to top dead center as best I could. Measured and adjusted the feed horn collar, used a plumb bob to align a straight edge to center of dish. I used SunCalc to find out solar noon, and moved the dish to dial it in to what I hope is close to south. With luck when I get a meter/finder, I'll be close. I check the elevation angle and it's close.


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Are you going to leave the straps on?

No, they were used to adjust the dish so that it was warp free while all the bolts (panel to panel & dish to supports) were loose. When I first assembled it and sighted the plane (face) of the dish in, it had a 2"+ twist in it due to it being assembled piece by piece in air. I'm sure it would have needed adjusting even if assembled face down on a flat surface too. The support angles are slotted so adjustments can be made.

When I unassembled the dish I took care to mark everything so that it could be reassembled as it originally was. One thing I thought was odd is that the feed horn was cocked at angle into the collar that holds it. I readjusted the support rods so that the measurements were equal on all 4 sides. It was almost 3/8 of a inch out. I need to research for the thread that shows the calculations for setting the feed horn to dish distance to make sure it's installed correctly.

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1 of 2 things then;
tune for max signal with the way the LNBF arms sit now
or shim the arms to adjust for the correct F/D.

As for me, on my hydro dish, I should shim the arms but adjust the LNBF makes up for the difference.
 
Some of my hardware came in today! Looks like I'll be able to check out to see if the actuator, feed horn, polarity motor and lnb's work this weekend. Looking forward to locking on to my first bird!

The controller looks first class and to be a high quality unit. I can't wait to put it to work! Also the meter looks like it will do the job!


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Nice! ASC1 is great. I have run the sh*t out of mine. Zero issues.

Post some pics of the Sathero please
 
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You are gonna love the ASC1, it really is the Cadillac of controllers. I have ran a couple for a few years now and they just work!
 
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