OTA Grounding
- Thread starter Neutron
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Awesome. Now that I have my preamp I am going to redo my OTA antenna install this weekend. Since the living room is on the other side of the house from where the DISH equipment on the outside is, I'm going to re-run the OTA cable down the same side of the house as the living room, go through my window (using flat coax) and directly to the OTA module on my 722k. No connection mess with the DISH stuff this way. I can't wait to see how much improved the signal will be!
I believe what he's talking about is the old style flat two wire that was used many years ago. I've used the flat cable that your talking on a temporary installation and it seem to work Ok.
I think Neutron means he is using the flat coax piece for going under windows(usually flat white cable about 8 inches long with female connectors on each end). Now that you have a preamp it doesn't really matter how you run the cable. It would be interesting to compare your signal from the old run with the new shorter run before installing the preamp.
Actually the old flat twinlead has lower line loss than RG-6.
The problem with flat twinlead is that it deteriorates after a year or so since the insulator is not generally UV tolerant.
Newer twinlead with the same coating (cover) as coax was made several years ago (about the time coax was taking off with cable companies) but it didn't catch on since it was percieved (incorrectly) that coax was better.
Flat twinlead is more difficult to install correctly, hence coax has been the rule.
The problem with flat twinlead is that it deteriorates after a year or so since the insulator is not generally UV tolerant.
Newer twinlead with the same coating (cover) as coax was made several years ago (about the time coax was taking off with cable companies) but it didn't catch on since it was percieved (incorrectly) that coax was better.
Flat twinlead is more difficult to install correctly, hence coax has been the rule.
You might find this part of an article of interest as it came from Public Television from IU
A Guide to UHF Television Reception | WTIU
Lead-in Lines
A good lead-in line installation delivers the signal from antenna to set with relatively little loss of strength. Choose a quality grade of either one. Flat ribbon twin lead, shielded twin lead and solid core coaxial cable don't work well for UHF. Lead-in lines deteriorate over time. Lead-in lines over five years old (or less depending on environmental conditions) should be replaced with new cables.
Twin Lead
- is initially less expensive.
- has moderate to poor life; signal loss increases as it weathers and ages.
- foam filled type works best.
- costs more initially, but less frequent replacement makes it less costly in time.
- occasionally needs matching transformers at antenna and set, and uses
- special connectors.
- lasts much longer, Has slightly more signal loss than new twin lead, but
- loss doesn't increase with age.
- foam core works best.
- is better at screening local interference.
- looks better.
With separate VHF and UHF antennas, separate lead-in lines are used to connect them to their respective terminals on the television set. Most combination VHF/UHF antennas have a connection for a single lead-in line, and in most locations a single high quality lead-in line will deliver good VHF and UHF signals. However, a single line cannot be connected to both the VHF and UHF 300 ohm terminals Instead, a good VHF/UHF "splitter"-rated 300 ohms for twin lead or 75 ohms for coaxial is required. Connect the lead-in line to one end, and the two pairs of wires at the other end to the appropriate set terminals.
