Parabolics East H to H motor

[stecle]

I recently acquired an H to H motor that hasn't been used in over 20 years. It is in pretty rough shape, but I am going to try and restore it.

 

[RimaNTSS]

Interesting model. Good luck in restoring it.

 

[primestar31]

I'd take many, many photos, maybe even make some drawings. Then, strip it down completely and soak it in rust remover, then scrub it to nice shiny metal. Then coat it with something so it doesn't easily rust again. Then put it all back together and test it out.

 

[Comptech]

And the hard part, trying to find a replacement for that stripped drive gear.

 

[primestar31]

And the hard part, trying to find a replacement for that stripped drive gear.

That's not stripped, you are seeing an illusion due to the angle of the photo, and/or some grease smear.

 

[Comptech]

Cool when I looked again, I thought the same.

 

[stecle]

Sorry about the poor pictures. I never was a great photographer. lol

The gears are actually in mint condition, which surprised me. The gears are either very good quality or it was never moved much.

My plan is to completely dissemble the unit and get the housing and mount sandblasted. I will then prime the housing and mount with red oxide primer and finish it with a coat of flat black.

My first step is to take the motor out and check if it is seized. If it moves freely I will power it up and see if it still works.

I have a nice 1.8 Prodelin in storage that I would love to use with this motor.

 

[RimaNTSS]

I have a nice 1.8 Prodelin in storage that I would love to use with this motor.

Prodelin 1.8m is nice but quite heavy dish especially if original back-frame is used. From your pictures I can not understand the real size and weight of the H-H motor. I would say that if H-H motor is smaller than AJAK Patriot mover than Prodelin could be too much for it.

 

[primestar31]

Prodelin 1.8m is nice but quite heavy dish especially if original back-frame is used. From your pictures I can not understand the real size and weight of the H-H motor. I would say that if H-H motor is smaller than AJAK Patriot mover than Prodelin could be too much for it.

I agree with Rima. We KNOW an Ajak 180 HH can be installed to a Prodelin 1.8 offset with some mods, but that dish reflector weighs a couple hundred pounds, and the mount alone is almost 100lbs, mine is made to fit on a 7inch pole! You might have to build a complete new lighter dish mount with thick angle-iron.

Also, don't forget that's an offset dish, and your HH mount is made for a prime focus dish. The Prodelin will need to be tilted FORWARD about 22 degrees at the top of the reflector, and that completely changes the geometry of its balance.

 

[wvman]

I recently acquired an H to H motor that hasn't been used in over 20 years. It is in pretty rough shape, but I am going to try and restore it.



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The reed switch looks like the ones used in the Thompson Saginaw arm. I sold Perfect 10, but never used an H-H mount. I'd soak the heck out of those screws and bolts before trying to take them out, and use a little heat wherever possible. I'd be surprised if the screws and bolts came out without a fight. May be able to look up a motor if needed off ebay with the dimensions. Good luck.

 

[Trust]

Great find , it must be very old since I see it is provided with potmeter and reed switch aswel .
Why is this topic named Parabolics East H to H motor since the motor is named Perfect ?
Can you give us a picture with a ruler along some side to give us a idea of the real size ?

 

[stecle]

Thanks for all the great feedback everyone. This H to H mount was being used with a 10 foot Perf dish when I found it. I hope it will handle a 1.8 Prodelin as I don't want to put a polar mount/actuator on it.

The reason I used Parabolics East in the topic is that's the name it was sold under. On the cover it has the same logo as the Parabolics East Dishes. The model number is also PE-1000. Did Parabolics East manufacture this mount or was it supplied by another manufacturer is the question.

I will try to take a few more pictures when I get a chance.

 

[phlatwound]

Here's a thread that shows how I bred a 1.8m Prodelin to a H-H (AJAK) mount, it may give you some ideas.

Phlat's Prodelin 1.8m offset on AJAK 180 H-H Mount

 

[stecle]

I finally have some spare time with summer over so I thought I better start restoring the H to H motors that I have in storage. I decided to begin with the oldest one which is the Parabolics East.

I sprayed everything with WD-40 and everything is coming apart ok. Unfortunately I discovered a problem which could be deal breaker. One of the gears in the gear train is missing teeth. Thankfully the worm is in excellent condition.

Does anyone know how the gears are mounted? It appears they use some sort of rivet nut. I know I can use a grinder to grind the heads off and remove the gears, but how do I put the gear train back together?

The motor is seized solid but I am not going to bother with it until I know I can obtain a new gear. There are a few shops in town that rebuild motors so I hope that won't be an issue.

 

[Brct203]

I finally have some spare time with summer over so I thought I better start restoring the H to H motors that I have in storage. I decided to begin with the oldest one which is the Parabolics East.

I sprayed everything with WD-40 and everything is coming apart ok. Unfortunately I discovered a problem which could be deal breaker. One of the gears in the gear train is missing teeth. Thankfully the worm is in excellent condition.

Does anyone know how the gears are mounted? It appears they use some sort of rivet nut. I know I can use a grinder to grind the heads off and remove the gears, but how do I put the gear train back together?

The motor is seized solid but I am not going to bother with it until I know I can obtain a new gear. There are a few shops in town that rebuild motors so I hope that won't be an issue.

about the motor, i have been able te salvage a few actuators that had spend many years exposed to rain and humidity. the motors were seized. Typically what happened is this: (I will describe the best I can, as I don't necesarily know the proper terms)
- the motors had fixed magnets , each forming almost a half tube, that together surround the rotor part . I think that might be called the stator.
- the rotor part was made of layered steel that supported the copper windings
- those steel layers had rusted , causing a buildup and made them touch the magnets
- in some cases that broke the magnets - game over
- in several cases, I was able to pull the rotor out of the motor without damaging the magnets, and carefully brush/sand sand that excess rust off, bringing back the narrow gap between rotor and magnets. That was enough to bring those motors back to life (other than a general cleanup and greassing where needed.

 

[telstar_1]

I think I may still have a PE H to H in LN condition, all that was wrong with it was, I think, some of the gearing for the sensor that I couldn't get or fix.

 

[stecle]

about the motor, i have been able te salvage a few actuators that had spend many years exposed to rain and humidity. the motors were seized. Typically what happened is this: (I will describe the best I can, as I don't necesarily know the proper terms)
- the motors had fixed magnets , each forming almost a half tube, that together surround the rotor part . I think that might be called the stator.
- the rotor part was made of layered steel that supported the copper windings
- those steel layers had rusted , causing a buildup and made them touch the magnets
- in some cases that broke the magnets - game over
- in several cases, I was able to pull the rotor out of the motor without damaging the magnets, and carefully brush/sand sand that excess rust off, bringing back the narrow gap between rotor and magnets. That was enough to bring those motors back to life (other than a general cleanup and greassing where needed.

Thank you for the great information. I never considered that the magnets might be broken. Hopefully the motor parts are common enough that I can obtain replacements if needed.

I am surprised how rusted the inside of this mount is. Yes, it sat outside for many years but the cover was on.

 

[arlo]

The motor housing inner diameter and magnet thickness and dimensions would help. Magnets, I have.
The corner posts must be riveted over. Carefully center drilled would allow the gear train to come apart.
Accurate center drilling of the posts. Tapping them. Countersinking the gear plate. And countersunk hardware to put it back together.
The youtube washing soda/battery charger trik works like a peach to remove rust.
A neighborhood bead blaster cabinet would help.
The gear is another thing. I didn't see which one. If you can't find an identical one a repair may be possible.
Showing it in high res would help. Do you have the diameter and tooth count?
The trigger magnets could be weak over the years too. I see there is a resistance positional feedback also.
New neodymium magnets would help is so . A space back of the sensor may be needed. They are very strong and may extend the pulse width of the trigger output. Optical conversion look easy.

 

[stecle]

I think I may still have a PE H to H in LN condition, all that was wrong with it was, I think, some of the gearing for the sensor that I couldn't get or fix.

If you look at the photo, third down from the top of the original post, there is a picture of the sensor gear train. Is that what is broke or missing on your H to H? Mine is in good shape so I can measure and count the teeth if you still want to try and find a gear somewhere.

If you don't want to bother with it, maybe I can purchase the mount from you. Even if I am able to get mine going it doesn't hurt to have a backup for parts.

 

[stecle]

The motor housing inner diameter and magnet thickness and dimensions would help. Magnets, I have.
The corner posts must be riveted over. Carefully center drilled would allow the gear train to come apart.
Accurate center drilling of the posts. Tapping them. Countersinking the gear plate. And countersunk hardware to put it back together.
The youtube washing soda/battery charger trik works like a peach to remove rust.
A neighborhood bead blaster cabinet would help.
The gear is another thing. I didn't see which one. If you can't find an identical one a repair may be possible.
Showing it in high res would help. Do you have the diameter and tooth count?
The trigger magnets could be weak over the years too. I see there is a resistance positional feedback also.
New neodymium magnets would help is so . A space back of the sensor may be needed. They are very strong and may extend the pulse width of the trigger output. Optical conversion look easy.

Thanks for the reply! I am going to try your suggestion with the electrolysis rust removal. I have always wondered about that so here is my chance to give it a try. There are a couple of local suppliers of gears so I will visit them and see if they have a match or can order one in.

The PC board shows an option for resistance feed back however there is no potentiometer installed. I can't convert the motor to optical because my V-Box won't support it.