Quick - Help me think this through! Geosat Pro C/Ku
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This is on the 10 foot Unimesh using the Traxis receiver first with the Co-Rotor and then with the Geosat Pro LNBF.
The Traxis usually has lower numbers than the Pansat, but not always.
The Traxis usually has lower numbers than the Pansat, but not always.
ok i got a coolsat on it so i will put my traxis on it and get my #'s coolsats #'s looks high compared to those lol ...... but then i'm going to slightly adjust my lnbf.
well my numbers are close to yours
i did adjust on it it was at 6:00 i adjusted to 8:00 and lost signal .... got it back at about 7 and lowered it to 4 not its at about 5:30 with close to same # except for my arc ends they are slightly higher. i will post them tomorrow
i did adjust on it it was at 6:00 i adjusted to 8:00 and lost signal .... got it back at about 7 and lowered it to 4 not its at about 5:30 with close to same # except for my arc ends they are slightly higher. i will post them tomorrow
I talked to Brian Gohl a little while ago.
He said the proper setting for the Geosat Pro C/Ku LNBF is to start at the 9:00 position when the dish is facing your TS satellite, and adjust for your local skew from there.
There isn't much skew for me on 91W. The skew is a positive 0.27 degrees, so when behind the dish and facing the satellite, I should turn it ever so slightly clockwise.
Conversely standing in front of the dish, I should move it couter-clockwise just a hair towards 8:30. Not much, because 0.27 degrees isn't much movement.
I haven't tried it at the straight out 9:00 position since the new found Focal length. May have to give it a shot when it quits raining, hopefully tomorrow. We need the rain.
Fred
He said the proper setting for the Geosat Pro C/Ku LNBF is to start at the 9:00 position when the dish is facing your TS satellite, and adjust for your local skew from there.
There isn't much skew for me on 91W. The skew is a positive 0.27 degrees, so when behind the dish and facing the satellite, I should turn it ever so slightly clockwise.
Conversely standing in front of the dish, I should move it couter-clockwise just a hair towards 8:30. Not much, because 0.27 degrees isn't much movement.
I haven't tried it at the straight out 9:00 position since the new found Focal length. May have to give it a shot when it quits raining, hopefully tomorrow. We need the rain.
Fred
I have told all the companies about a year ago the the polarities are inverted on the Cband & C/Ku lnbfs. While most would set the "0" mark or arrow for verticle probe and which it should be but the reality is it is horizontal probe.
Jimmy
Jimmy
well i went back out and tried adjusting and squeezed a bit more out of it but its back at 6:00
i will get some # and i also have a couple of pictures
i will get some # and i also have a couple of pictures
Thanks DVBResource.
I don't know why they would manufacture them that way.
Hey George,
Will look forward to the numbers and pictures.
Do your analog satellites and tps work ok? Are the satellites the proper polarity and everything?
Fred
I don't know why they would manufacture them that way.
Hey George,
Will look forward to the numbers and pictures.
Do your analog satellites and tps work ok? Are the satellites the proper polarity and everything?
Fred
ok here are the #'s
as for all my analog they come in good some seem a click or two off on location but come in. will have to hook up the 922 / 4dtv on it before i sale it and get some #'s
I have taken the liberty of putting George's BSC-621 numbers from his Traxis with the numbers I already had from my Traxis and Geosat Pro. His numbers are in the third column.
Here is how it stacks up against the co-rotor. The 1st reading is the co-rotor, 2nd is the Geosat, the third where applicable is George's BSC-621:
G15 - 133W 3745 H C-Band digital 72% SQ-----68% SQ
G27 - 129W 11964 H Ku digital 72% SQ-----68% SQ-----63% SQ
G10 - 123W 11718 V Ku digital 75% SQ-----73% SQ-----73%SQ
G11 - 91W 3720 H C-Band digital 78% SQ-----78% SQ-----80%SQ
G11 - 91W 12062 V Ku digital 60 - 65% SQ-----58 - 61 SQ-----17%SQ
AMC3 - 87W 12144 H Ku digital 70% SQ-----55% SQ-----17%SQ
AMC2/16 - 85W 12195 H digital Ku test card 80% SQ-----70% SQ-----23%SQ
AMC2/16 - 85W TP 24 analog had an almost sparkle free picture. Clear with co-rotor.
G17 - 74W 11734 H digital Ku 80% SQ-----75% SQ-----80%SQ
AMC6 - 72W 12053 V digital Ku 72% SQ-----72% SQ-----67%SQ
AMC6 - 72W 4043 V digital C-Band 77% Sq-----75% SQ-----72%SQ
IS9 - 58W 4040 H digital C-Band 75% SQ 81% SQ
I will report back later. My Fortec 5400 is waiting at the Post Office. Had to wait until they came back from lunch.
Fred
Here is how it stacks up against the co-rotor. The 1st reading is the co-rotor, 2nd is the Geosat, the third where applicable is George's BSC-621:
G15 - 133W 3745 H C-Band digital 72% SQ-----68% SQ
G27 - 129W 11964 H Ku digital 72% SQ-----68% SQ-----63% SQ
G10 - 123W 11718 V Ku digital 75% SQ-----73% SQ-----73%SQ
G11 - 91W 3720 H C-Band digital 78% SQ-----78% SQ-----80%SQ
G11 - 91W 12062 V Ku digital 60 - 65% SQ-----58 - 61 SQ-----17%SQ
AMC3 - 87W 12144 H Ku digital 70% SQ-----55% SQ-----17%SQ
AMC2/16 - 85W 12195 H digital Ku test card 80% SQ-----70% SQ-----23%SQ
AMC2/16 - 85W TP 24 analog had an almost sparkle free picture. Clear with co-rotor.
G17 - 74W 11734 H digital Ku 80% SQ-----75% SQ-----80%SQ
AMC6 - 72W 12053 V digital Ku 72% SQ-----72% SQ-----67%SQ
AMC6 - 72W 4043 V digital C-Band 77% Sq-----75% SQ-----72%SQ
IS9 - 58W 4040 H digital C-Band 75% SQ 81% SQ
I will report back later. My Fortec 5400 is waiting at the Post Office. Had to wait until they came back from lunch.
Fred
oh and mine were on my 7 1/2 ft unimesh dish my 10 ft odem is next but it has several hail dings 
Hey George,
The surface accuracy and the parabolic form are more important than size.
Your 7.5 footer looks like it is doing almost as good as this 10 footer of mine. My Birdview is only 8 foot 3 inches, and it will blow the doors off most 10 footers.
Have you tried yours at the 9:00 position straight out?
Or do you know for sure that the BSC-621 is supposed to be at 6:00?
Fred
The surface accuracy and the parabolic form are more important than size.
Your 7.5 footer looks like it is doing almost as good as this 10 footer of mine. My Birdview is only 8 foot 3 inches, and it will blow the doors off most 10 footers.
Have you tried yours at the 9:00 position straight out?
Or do you know for sure that the BSC-621 is supposed to be at 6:00?
Fred
hopefully i will get to try a couple more things tomorrow.
I didn't try it at 9 or at 12 and i will do that. my biggest problem is equipment to verify signals lol two digital receivers and an analog lol and i have to switch it back to the coolsat to move the dish ( for each satellite ) lol
so its a project that takes a lot of time plus my dish is high in the air 10-12 ft off the ground so i have a ladder setup on the back of my pickup bed withthe tv on the top of the cab to make adjustments lol
I didn't try it at 9 or at 12 and i will do that. my biggest problem is equipment to verify signals lol two digital receivers and an analog lol and i have to switch it back to the coolsat to move the dish ( for each satellite ) lol
so its a project that takes a lot of time plus my dish is high in the air 10-12 ft off the ground so i have a ladder setup on the back of my pickup bed withthe tv on the top of the cab to make adjustments lol
Holy Cow!!!
You be careful doing that. I tried it once, and the ladder slipped and I almost broke my leg.
Fred
Well I decided to tweak mine for analog today, and left it frustrated too. I could get Horizontal TP's fine, but my FTA receiver will not change the polarity to check the vertical TP's.
I wonder if this is one of the LNB's that both leads have to be hooked to something for it to switch properly? I have barrels in a switchbox on the pole so I just unhooked both leads and hooked one of them to the FTA receiver and then looped it out to the analog receiver, and left the other one unhooked.
On G15 ( I think it was G15) I got the couple analog Tp's on the H side great, but no matter what I did the V side was a no go.
I would be willing to bet that both coaxes have to be hooked up for it to change polarities.
I wonder if this is one of the LNB's that both leads have to be hooked to something for it to switch properly? I have barrels in a switchbox on the pole so I just unhooked both leads and hooked one of them to the FTA receiver and then looped it out to the analog receiver, and left the other one unhooked.
On G15 ( I think it was G15
) I got the couple analog Tp's on the H side great, but no matter what I did the V side was a no go. I would be willing to bet that both coaxes have to be hooked up for it to change polarities.
Hey Stogie,
You have to slave the analog to the DVB receiver if you want both polarities.
It involves a Hi-Freq splitter with one side DC blocking.
Both coaxes running from the voltage controlled LNBF to the splitter (one c-band, one Ku), at the splitter the voltage blocked side to the analog, the other to the diseqc ports 1 and 2, diseqc to DVB box.
Then when you change from H to V in the DVB, the analog can read the new polarity.
Fred
You have to slave the analog to the DVB receiver if you want both polarities.
It involves a Hi-Freq splitter with one side DC blocking.
Both coaxes running from the voltage controlled LNBF to the splitter (one c-band, one Ku), at the splitter the voltage blocked side to the analog, the other to the diseqc ports 1 and 2, diseqc to DVB box.
Then when you change from H to V in the DVB, the analog can read the new polarity.
Fred
Well, I got the Fortec 5400 yesterday and put it on this dish and the Geosat LNBF.
It is a pretty nice receiver, but doesn't handle low signals very well. I even went back on the roof again today, and adjusted the LNBF to where it is pointing straight out at 9:00 with the 48-1/4" Focal Length, and still was having problems with the 5400 on weak signals.
So I moved the 5400 to my motorized Primestar dish, and it is working out pretty well on that dish. I will start a different thread in the FTA shack on what I think about the 5400.
I put the Traxis back on this dish with the Geosat LNBF temporarily. The adjustment actually moved the numbers up 3-5 points across the board. I know Anole, it is now tuned to within a gnats hair.
So my plan for the Geosat LNBF and Traxis is to shortly switch out with the Pansat on the Birdview dish. The Geosat LNBF will work fine on that dish, and the Traxis is the receiver that should run it with the VBox II.
I will move my Pansat and Co-rotor to this dish with the Pansat controlling the polarity and skew. The analog will move the dish for now. I can see another VBox in my future on this dish.
To sum up, on the Geosat Pro LNBF.
I think it does a great job for an item that sells for $50.00 versus the Co-rotor that starts at about $150.00 with cheap LNBs, and can cost much more.
As long as you have a good reflector, it will do a great job for you.
I will run the numbers again when I switch this LNBF to the Birdview.
Fred
It is a pretty nice receiver, but doesn't handle low signals very well. I even went back on the roof again today, and adjusted the LNBF to where it is pointing straight out at 9:00 with the 48-1/4" Focal Length, and still was having problems with the 5400 on weak signals.
So I moved the 5400 to my motorized Primestar dish, and it is working out pretty well on that dish. I will start a different thread in the FTA shack on what I think about the 5400.
I put the Traxis back on this dish with the Geosat LNBF temporarily. The adjustment actually moved the numbers up 3-5 points across the board. I know Anole, it is now tuned to within a gnats hair.
So my plan for the Geosat LNBF and Traxis is to shortly switch out with the Pansat on the Birdview dish. The Geosat LNBF will work fine on that dish, and the Traxis is the receiver that should run it with the VBox II.
I will move my Pansat and Co-rotor to this dish with the Pansat controlling the polarity and skew. The analog will move the dish for now. I can see another VBox in my future on this dish.
To sum up, on the Geosat Pro LNBF.
I think it does a great job for an item that sells for $50.00 versus the Co-rotor that starts at about $150.00 with cheap LNBs, and can cost much more.
As long as you have a good reflector, it will do a great job for you.
I will run the numbers again when I switch this LNBF to the Birdview.
Fred
I switched the Geosat Pro to the Birdview dish and the Co-Rotor that was there to the Unimesh.
As I said, I have to re-peak the Birdview, but the preliminary numbers look pretty good.
The good thing is that the Geosat LNBF fits like a glove in the machined scalar on the Birdview. When I put the laser on it, it was pointing perfectly at the center of the dish.
I am going to switch the receivers now and put the Pansat on the Unimesh, and the Traxis on the Birdview. My VBox III that I ordered should be here tomorrow.
I am going to start re-peaking the Birdview tomorrow afternoon, and perhaps finish up on Sunday afternoon.
Everything looks good right now.
As I said, I have to re-peak the Birdview, but the preliminary numbers look pretty good.
The good thing is that the Geosat LNBF fits like a glove in the machined scalar on the Birdview. When I put the laser on it, it was pointing perfectly at the center of the dish.
I am going to switch the receivers now and put the Pansat on the Unimesh, and the Traxis on the Birdview. My VBox III that I ordered should be here tomorrow.
I am going to start re-peaking the Birdview tomorrow afternoon, and perhaps finish up on Sunday afternoon.
Everything looks good right now.
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