Well here is the latest installment of this saga.
It seems everything I do with a dish turns into a saga.
As I posted before, I moved the Focal Length out another 1/4" from where I was before, and it seemed to help the signal some, but I found a dilemma I couldn't figure out.
On the ends of the arc the H and V were pretty much on the money when the positioner stopped, but on AMC3 which is near the top of my arc, the H and the V were at least 3 or 4 clicks apart. I couldn't figure that out. I kept thinking to myself that this was very strange.
Then I remembered Harold's (caddata) story about the onion. I thought, Okay, I've moved it to the point where the signal is starting to diverge. (Harold says that the signal hits a point where best signal is attained for about an inch or so, then it starts to break back up. That inch is referred to as the onion.)
So I moved it back in and tried the skew some more all without getting the Ku with anything comparable to the co-rotor. The c-band is great and has remained that way through all this even analog, crystal clear.
So after several unfruitful tries, I decided to go for broke. The factory specs on this dish has the F/D ratio at .40 and the Focal Length at 48". I had the co-rotor set at .38 and 47-5/8". That is where I always got my best signal. Believe me I tried it at the .40 and .42 and had it at the Factory specs at least once, maybe more.
So I set the F/d ratio at about where the co-rotor would be at .42. The wave-guide mouth is even with the scalar rings at that setting. There are no marks on the geosat LNBF. I did not move the scalar rings during this process because I have them where I want them for the co-rotor. the .42 had the focal length at 48-1/4". That's 48" to the mouth of the wave-guide and figuring 1/4" inside for total length.
That is where I have my best signal so far, and the H and V tps on AMC moved back together, so I know I am in the middle of the onion.
Here is how it stacks up against the co-rotor. The 1st reading is the co-rotor, 2nd is the Geosat:
G15 - 133W 3745 H C-Band digital 72% SQ 68%SQ
G27 - 129W 11964 H Ku digital 72% SQ 68% SQ
G10 - 123W 11718 V Ku digital 75% SQ 73% SQ
G11 - 91W 3720 H C-Band digital 78% SQ 78% SQ
G11 - 91W 12062 V Ku digital 60 - 65% SQ 58 - 61 SQ
AMC3 - 87W 12144 H Ku digital 70% SQ 15% SQ the vertical PBSs are at 70% and the horizontals are at 75%, so maybe there was a problem with Montana PBS today. Couldn't figure that one out either.
AMC2/16 - 85W 12195 H digital Ku test card 80% SQ 70% SQ
AMC2/16 - 85W TP 24 analog had an almost sparkle free picture. Clear with co-rotor.
G17 - 74W 11734 H digital Ku 80% SQ 75% SQ
AMC6 - 72W 12053 V digital Ku 72% SQ 72% SQ
AMC6 - 72W 4043 V digital C-Band 77% Sq 75% SQ
IS9 - 58W 4040 H digital C-Band 75% SQ 81% SQ
I am quitting for now. I wanted to make sure that it was at least somewhat comparable to the co-rotor, and it turns out to be very close. It will work even better on the Birdview and fit better too. The scalar ring was milled out to .005 clearance for the co-rotor to fit on the Birdview. So the Geosat LNBF will fit much tighter in there. It fits like socks on a rooster using the co-rotor scalar.
I have made at least 40 trips up and down two ladders yesterday and today because I didn't want to un-hook and carry the analog, Traxis, the mini-dvd player all to the roof again, so I opted yesterday to just go up and down. I think maybe I should have gone to the extra effort.
The final pointing of the arrow is just a hair towards the 9:30 point on the dish.
Thanks for all your help!
Fred