I just got a second hand C band dish and the poloar mount is rusted to the pole were the polar mount slips over the pole. Its rusted really bad and will not turn at all. I was wondering if there is any way to seperated them. I was thinking of using PB Blaster or Kroil. Would either of those two work on a 3.5 inch diameter pole.
Removing rusted polar mount from rusted pole?
- Thread starter CFreak
- Start date
- Latest activity Latest activity:
- Replies 19
- Views 3K
- Status
I use Kroil, Sili-Kroil or Aero-Kroil! They are all great products and have freed up things that I never thought was possible! Take the bolts out and spray in the holes and let it sit for a while and reapply if necessary. Give it a twist and it should come off. I never had too great of luck with PB Blaster, it is on my shelf sitting with the WD40! Oh, on second thought, PB Blaster is great for killing bees in the feedhorn cover!
Besides the penetrating oil you might try hitting the outside of the pole mount with a heavy hammer(like a 4lb drilling) to jar the rust loose. Put a big wrecking bar thru the upper brackets(with the bolt in it so it stays aligned) to get more leverage to break it loose too.
I read on the forum a few years back that PBblaster was good.
The instructions DO say to spray it on, wait a bit, and then beat the crap outta things!
I tried it, and it seemed to work fine for me.
But I think most of the product evaporates within a 10-15 minutes, so use it accordingly.
Nice to hear about Kroil, Sili-Kroil and Aero-Kroil.
I'll have to look at it and give it a try.
edit:
Little Googling, and I found this posted in 2004 on another forum:
The instructions DO say to spray it on, wait a bit, and then beat the crap outta things!
I tried it, and it seemed to work fine for me.
But I think most of the product evaporates within a 10-15 minutes, so use it accordingly.
Nice to hear about Kroil, Sili-Kroil and Aero-Kroil.
I'll have to look at it and give it a try.
edit:
Little Googling, and I found this posted in 2004 on another forum:
Last edited:
Kroil is great but when Sili-Kroil came out it seemed even better! I cannot notice much difference between the Sili or the Aero, they all work! We order factory direct and they have some great deals now and then and offer a line up of other great products too. The company name is Kano and they are located down south in Tennessee if I remember right. They offer product in bonus size aerosol cans individually or by the case and we get a 5 gallon can once in a great while!
Did try PB Blaster and it did not worked. But to be fair the pole and the bottom part of the monunt are fused toghter by rust. Thats the best way I can describe it. I called all the stores in my area and only one sells kroil but they were out of stock. I can always order it online but I am going to hold off on that for now. I don't think kroil will be that much better if at all than PB Blaster. I was thinking it might take some kind of blow torch or something to get rid of the rust.
Heat works wonders but be very careful if using a torch where you have already used penetrating oil!
"Heat works wonders....."
Yes it does!
To help draw the Lube up, apply the heat away from where you are applying the Lube.
Yes it does!
To help draw the Lube up, apply the heat away from where you are applying the Lube.
The securing bolts distort the mount tube into a rounded triangle shape when tightened. The areas in between these will be closer to the pole & are more like to bond with rust.
Apply heat to the areas between the bolts vertically in a slow, steady up & down motion. If your MAPP gas torch doesn't provide enough heat(dull red glow) then borrow an oxy-acetylene set, attach the cutting head or a small rosebud tip. The mechanics "heat wrench" will loosen almost anything.
Then put a long bar thru the top brackets for leverage & twist.
Apply heat to the areas between the bolts vertically in a slow, steady up & down motion. If your MAPP gas torch doesn't provide enough heat(dull red glow) then borrow an oxy-acetylene set, attach the cutting head or a small rosebud tip. The mechanics "heat wrench" will loosen almost anything.
Then put a long bar thru the top brackets for leverage & twist.
Looks like I am going to have to do something because I just put the mount(2nd part of mount that wasn't rusted on the pole) on the pole. It seems that the mount is tracking south to north I assume thats wrong. Instead of east to west.
1. Would it still be possible to get 99w and 97w with the mount like this? I wasn't planning on using a motor. I was planning only to watch those 2 satellites.
2. What is MAPP and heat wrench?
Thanks everyone for the suggestions. I will be glad to here more.
1. Would it still be possible to get 99w and 97w with the mount like this? I wasn't planning on using a motor. I was planning only to watch those 2 satellites.
2. What is MAPP and heat wrench?
Thanks everyone for the suggestions. I will be glad to here more.
Last edited:
As long as you can physically/mechanically aim the dish at your desired sats any mount should work, and if they are pretty close to your true south you may not even have to adjust the elevation, a simple twist of the mount on the pole may do it.
MAPP is a name or acronym for a welding gas.
"Heat wrench" (aka "flaming wrench", "smoke wrench", "fire wrench" etc.)
is slang for an acetylene torch.
MAPP is a name or acronym for a welding gas.
"Heat wrench" (aka "flaming wrench", "smoke wrench", "fire wrench" etc.)
is slang for an acetylene torch.
As long as you can physically/mechanically aim the dish at your desired sats any mount should work, and if they are pretty close to your true south you may not even have to adjust the elevation, a simple twist of the mount on the pole may do it.
MAPP is a name or acronym for a welding gas.
"Heat wrench" (aka "flaming wrench", "smoke wrench", "fire wrench" etc.)
is slang for an acetylene torch.
My true south is 83-84w. I can aim the mount in the azimuth direction of 99w and 97w easily but I was worried the elevation would be off by a few inchs up or down since the mount is turned 90 degress the wrong way. Everything on the mount is rusted and I don't know if I can ajust the elevation manually at the moment. Or would I need to adjust the elevation?
Can MAPP or heat wrench be purchased at walmart?
Can MAPP or heat wrench be purchased at walmart?
MAPP gas cylinders can be had at commercial plumbing supplies, home despot, lowes, sears & etc. Propane just doesn't get hot enough. A good quality torch head for use with MAPP gas would cost about $25-45 at a plumbing house. Or a good hardware store. Look for the torch head to have the word "turbo" in the package description with a torch tip of 5/8 to 3/4 inch size. More is better!
Oxy-acetylene torch setups run from $200 for 'A' bottle size to a few hundred for the larger rigs. Makes friends with a local welder - it will be less if you need that much heat to free the mount.
Well I have decided to just dig the pole and concrete up. If do that I can turn the pole and mount around in the right direction. Also I had the pole and mount to close to the house. I forgot how huge the dish would be lol.The hole was just dug a few days ago. So the digging isn't as tough as it could be. I just hate the idea of wasting all the concrete(500lb to 600lbs). I may ask a neighbor with a four wheeler something to help pull it out and leave the concrete on it.
lol.The hole was just dug a few days ago. So the digging isn't as tough as it could be. I just hate the idea of wasting all the concrete(500lb to 600lbs). I may ask a neighbor with a four wheeler something to help pull it out and leave the concrete on it.
Last edited:
Hi CFreak I am also looking to get a free BUD so i read your post with interest. Did you add more cement to the hole after you dug around it? If you can move the pole by hand so can the wind after the dish is on it.
I am also looking to get a free BUD so i read your post with interest. Did you add more cement to the hole after you dug around it? If you can move the pole by hand so can the wind after the dish is on it.Hi CFreak
Thats a good point. The hole that I dug back up was just dug about 3 days before. Thea hole was dug up by a backhoe and was twice as big as it should have been. By the time I dug the dirt back out of the hole there was only about six inchs of loose dirt around each side of the concrete. So I had to dig about 45 minutes with posthole digger and regular sholve to get the dirt loose enough to turn the pole and concrete around. I would say about 3 more days without much rain there would have been no loose dirt. I am going to let this last hole I just filled back up sit for 3-5 days and it should be rock soild. If not I will add some concrete. I will give an update in a few days.
Its been 7 days since I filled the hole back up with loose dirt. The pole does not move when I try to push it.:up I just now put the rest of the heavy mount on the pole and I am going to check in the morning and see if its still plum. Everything seems soild so far. I don't think the pole is going to move now. I may not know for sure until I put the dish on it and the wind blows like heckHi CFreak
But really think its going to be ok.
cfreak, you can aim the dish at any satellite if you can adjust the elevation. Hope that part isn' rusted to betsy. I have one fixed c-band dish that I lazily re=aim that way sometimes, it has no working motor-the motor that's attached is just there to hold the dish in place. When I want to move to another sat, I just loosen the bolts on the polar mount cap, rotate dish and mount on the pole to the right direction, and use the elevation bolt to find my target. Of course you have to be watching the receiver and tv out there when you are purposely screwing up your dish-tracking lol. On this dish it doesn't matter much, it only goes from 91 to 95 and back once in a while.
tubosat, I know what you talking about when you mention loosen the bolts on the polar cap. I use to do my other dish that way. BUt with the new polar mount the polar cap is rusted to the pole. But the polar mount is still able to pivot east and west. I plan on using an old motor arm that doesn't work to hold the dish in place. The elevation adjustment is rusted but I should be able to adjust it anyway. I do wish the polar cap could be turned thats the way I am use to doing it.
- Status
