Wet Receiver

[StarScan]

I got this Uniden UST 9900 a couple years ago with a 10' Pinnacle. Never messed with it so I'm not sure if it works. I'm wanting to use it as a polarity controller with my Amiko. A paper cup was set on it and forgotten, the pop ate through the bottom of the cup and leaked syrup in the top vents. Any ways to clean it?

 

[KE4EST]

Try this:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Permatex-82588-Electrical-Contact-Parts-Cleaner-11-oz-Can-/380660035958

I've had success with it before, if the soda has not caused damage to traces or components.

And of course you don't have to get this on eBay I just used that link for an example. A couple auto parts stores carry it around here.

 

[kittyhas1000legs]

Isopropyl alcohol 91%, or head to the liquor store for some grain alcohol at 95% (190 proof). Use cotton balls and/or cotton swabs. I've used isopropyl, but my soon-to-be-father-in-law swears by the grain alcohol (Grave's brand).

 

[KE4EST]

Yep I've heard that everclear will work I think it is what 198 proof.

 

[kittyhas1000legs]

Yep I've heard that everclear will work I think it is what 198 proof.

Just don't smoke while using it or you'll have MUCH bigger problems.

 

[Bob Haller]

Just don't smoke while using it or you'll have MUCH bigger problems.

ANYONE WHO SMOKES HAS GREAT TROUBLES NO MATTER WHAT ELSE THEY ARE DOING

 

[waylew]

If the only thing that got "pop"ed was the VCII module,pic 5,don't worry about it.The only VCII channel left is the weather chan,so it's basically worthless.
Your bigger problem with the old Uniden is it's likely to have a lot of dried out electrolytic capacitors.Toss the VCII,plug the receiver in and try it out,it may still work fine as a dish mover and polarizer.You might want to blow the dust out with compressed air first tho.

 

[StarScan]

Ill blow it out tonight. Any idea what type of cable this is that goes from the positioner to the receiver? I didn't get it with the unit.

 

[FaT Air]

Does the unit turn ON? Seeing the rust on the back, I wonder what the internals look like(corrosion isn't always apparent). I.E. is it worth it??? What kind of longevity can be expected?
that's a 15 pin D-sub connector. Rat Shack* may have them. Wire pin to pin. 1-1, 2-2, etc.
*Other sources: Newark, Mouser, Digi Key Get the special crimp tool also.

 

[StarScan]

Does the unit turn ON? Seeing the rust on the back, I wonder what the internals look like(corrosion isn't always apparent). I.E. is it worth it??? What kind of longevity can be expected?
that's a 15 pin D-sub connector. Rat Shack* may have them. Wire pin to pin. 1-1, 2-2, etc.
*Other sources: Newark, Mouser, Digi Key Get the special crimp tool also.

Not sure, I need the 15 pin cable because the positioner is the power supply for receiver.

 

[waylew]

Ill blow it out tonight. Any idea what type of cable this is that goes from the positioner to the receiver? I didn't get it with the unit.View attachment 96754

You need the receiver because that's where the positioning and polarity is controlled from.

 

[FaT Air]

Think, for less hassle, and better chance of success would be a V-box and a Titanium PLL LNBF.
I don't like electronics & corrosion. Might not be a problem today. But it will be, shortly.
Fix it once, then again, then again, and again
If using the polarotor is your prime choice, the Titanium ASC-1
There's someone that has been selling, seen in the not so distant past, a new(old stock) analog IRD for around $50 bucks. Sometimes listed on ebay. But danged if I remember the company.

 

[. Raine]

A lot of people I'm sure will say this is stupid, but I've done it many times with things that look that bad and have had soda spilled into them. Which soda, when spilled into electronics, will continue to corrode traces until you get it all out, even if it's dried up.

What I do with stuff that bad is take it apart as far as possible without cutting/unsoldering wires and throw it all in the dish washer, circuit boards, cases, all of it. The dish washer has to be made to use WARM WATER, NOT HOT. Most dish washers use hot water only and it's very important to use warm, not hot. Hot will melt the solder off of the boards. after it's run thru the dishwasher you have to let it sit and dry out completely for two or three days.

If the soda wasn't spilled into it I'd just blow it out with compressed air and hand clean the case best that I could, but with the soda, it'll corrode in there even after it's dried up, if it's on any traces.

 

[StarScan]

Think, for less hassle, and better chance of success would be a V-box and a Titanium PLL LNBF.
I don't like electronics & corrosion. Might not be a problem today. But it will be, shortly.
Fix it once, then again, then again, and again
If using the polarotor is your prime choice, the Titanium ASC-1
There's someone that has been selling, seen in the not so distant past, a new(old stock) analog IRD for around $50 bucks. Sometimes listed on ebay. But danged if I remember the company.

Does the C1PLL have three holes in the plate for guy wires? I will probably get the ASC1 later on but things are a bit tight now.

 

[FaT Air]

Standard scalar for 3 or 4 supports. Don't think there was/is any necessity for a redesign.
You can use you existing scalar. Just measure the throat that protrudes out the front now, and place the C1PLL's throat the same distance.

 

[StarScan]

Over the weekend I got my hands on some c band equipment while helping a friend clean out basement. Found a receiver I can use to control the servo.

 

[FaT Air]

Pic 4 is a "cage" for an VCII/RS module - junk AFAIC. Also, I recommend removing any/all VCII/RS modules from an IRD type. Only present day purpose is a load on the power supplies. No VCII except TWC, & not ITC AFAIK, but you could try.
The ULTRA should work fine. Think the MTI is a mover only, no servo control.

 

[waylew]

The only thing of use to you will be the Uniden Ultra,you can use that to move the dish, change polarity and see the last few analog channels still up there.Everything else is pretty much museum pieces.And as FaT suggested,if the Ultra still has a VCII module in it,take it out.

 

[StarScan]

What sats still have ITC analog and will I be able to view them without the module?

 

[FaT Air]

http://www.lyngsat.com/Galaxy-16.html Ch 16 V I think it's still there