Summit Cinema and jdr01930 - How adventuresome are you? Do you own your 622? (I would not follow this suggestion otherwise.) Why not pop the cover and do a close inspection of the HDMI connector pins on the PCB to see if perhaps one has lifted? I don't think there's any harm in opening it up for a look if you feel qualified enough to do that. You'll need a good light and probably a diopter or other magnifier to see it well enough. It might be some good information...
Who is having problems with HDMI with 211/411/622
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bhelms - Mine is leased. Can I get to it without breaking any "void if removed" type of stickers? I think I read earlier in this thread that a circuit board or other guts need to be removed to get good access. Maybe that was only to get adequate access to resolder (which I am not qualified or willing to do on a leased unit)?
If I can just remove the cover and that's enough, I'm game.
I'm a computer tech by trade and qualified to do some basic disassembly, however I don't want to do anything that will jeapordise my chance for a free replacement.
If I can just remove the cover and that's enough, I'm game.
I'm a computer tech by trade and qualified to do some basic disassembly, however I don't want to do anything that will jeapordise my chance for a free replacement.
You can probably get a peek at it by just removing the cover, but it's partially hidden by the PS board. There's a "warranty void if removed" label covering one screw mounting the bracket that holds the fan and HDD, but I did not see one anywhere around the PS or HDMI connector.
To remove the cover you remove just the 4 screws in the back, slide the cover about 3/4" to the rear, then lift it off. That will give you a good view of a lot of the guts.
NOTE: I'm not recommending that you do this, leased or not! E* could take a stand that you're stuck with it once you open it, and on a leased unit they may try to collect damages. Your choice. But I think a quick peek is innocent enough (and if you're careful I don't see how they would ever know). Just remember to disconnect everything and don't touch anything while you're in there. You might be able to see some motion of a pin at the PCB if you very gently move the HDMI plug from outside while watching closely at the PCB. I wish I had done that on my first unit before I returned it, but at that time we were only speculating that there were broken/lifted pins and no one as far as I know had actually proved that condition to be true and actually effected a repair until recently. Live and learn!
To remove the cover you remove just the 4 screws in the back, slide the cover about 3/4" to the rear, then lift it off. That will give you a good view of a lot of the guts.
NOTE: I'm not recommending that you do this, leased or not! E* could take a stand that you're stuck with it once you open it, and on a leased unit they may try to collect damages. Your choice. But I think a quick peek is innocent enough (and if you're careful I don't see how they would ever know). Just remember to disconnect everything and don't touch anything while you're in there. You might be able to see some motion of a pin at the PCB if you very gently move the HDMI plug from outside while watching closely at the PCB. I wish I had done that on my first unit before I returned it, but at that time we were only speculating that there were broken/lifted pins and no one as far as I know had actually proved that condition to be true and actually effected a repair until recently. Live and learn!
UPDATE....Received my replacement 622 yesterday and hooked up the HDMI cable tonite and IT WORKED, just like the previous 622 worked so my fingers are crossed hoping that it will not quit working after a week like before. This confirms that it was a Hardware problem, not software like they first claimed.
I was mad at the world several months ago for the lack of information on the hd dvr. I did finally bite and spent 300 bucks to get the 622. Yes, my HDMI connector went out a few months ago but figured it was my tv. After googling the issue, it brought me right back here and I found out it was the connector. I called last night and had a very hostile csr who tried to refuse to let me speak with her supervisor. I finally got him (probably just the guy sitting next to her) and he gave me the song and dance about the software. Bottom line, no receiver.
Well, today I woke up feeling like had been given a 'line of crap' and did some more looking. I found this from Dan Minnick V.P. of engineering for E* on their tech forum and called E* again. I spoke with a nice lady named Amy and read it off word for word. She then told me she knew exactly which website I got it from and it was correct. Bottom line, I have a new box being UPS'd as I write.
Had it not been for this info, I would have been watching component for several more months AND THERE IS A DIFFERENCE! Thanks satellite guys.
"A couple: Problems with HDMI connector?
Dan: On the 622 there are 2 different problems. Not all TVs implement to the standard. Dish is working with those manufacturers to modify the 622 software to better support those sets. Second problem is that the connector is not durable, not hard to break. If it was working then it stopped, it's probably broken. On TV compatibility, they have found the problem to be on the TV end of the cable. "
If E* continues to be hostile in returning faulty boxes, I smell Class Action.
Thanks for the correction, I was thinking Charlie.
Well, today I woke up feeling like had been given a 'line of crap' and did some more looking. I found this from Dan Minnick V.P. of engineering for E* on their tech forum and called E* again. I spoke with a nice lady named Amy and read it off word for word. She then told me she knew exactly which website I got it from and it was correct. Bottom line, I have a new box being UPS'd as I write.
Had it not been for this info, I would have been watching component for several more months AND THERE IS A DIFFERENCE! Thanks satellite guys."A couple: Problems with HDMI connector?
Dan: On the 622 there are 2 different problems. Not all TVs implement to the standard. Dish is working with those manufacturers to modify the 622 software to better support those sets. Second problem is that the connector is not durable, not hard to break. If it was working then it stopped, it's probably broken. On TV compatibility, they have found the problem to be on the TV end of the cable. "
If E* continues to be hostile in returning faulty boxes, I smell Class Action.
Thanks for the correction, I was thinking Charlie.
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Who is C*? I thought we were talking about E*...... I hope is just a typo but for a moment I thought you had switched to Comcast.
That's unusual for the 942. There have been relatively few reports of failed HDMI connectors on the 942.
Is there a particular trick or setup option to get the HDMI out to work? I've been using component out with no problems but I bought a new TV and HDMI cable and can't get any video or audio to come through to the TV via HDMI (tried with or without the component cables connected). Is my unit experiencing the problem described in this thread? My 622 is fairly old, purchased in March.
So my HDMI connector failed today after having it work fine for months. It never gets touched and neither do the cords, it just failed.
I don't want to lose the information and the timers stored on it, they take forever to set back up, but I suppose until we get the option for an external drive (so I can at least back up the shows), I'm out of luck. Right now I'll just use my receiver to switch dvd and sat signals via component.
(it's a leased 622, installed in may).
I don't want to lose the information and the timers stored on it, they take forever to set back up, but I suppose until we get the option for an external drive (so I can at least back up the shows), I'm out of luck. Right now I'll just use my receiver to switch dvd and sat signals via component.
(it's a leased 622, installed in may).
Got our "new" 622 and hooked it up. The HDMI works great. Hopefully the problem is solved. I quess only time will tell.
I say "new" because the queue on the DVR was full of spanish programming. Is it usual for Dish to send out returned receivers. I would think if it was refurbished, the hard drive would have been wiped. Anyboby have a comment or advise?
I say "new" because the queue on the DVR was full of spanish programming. Is it usual for Dish to send out returned receivers. I would think if it was refurbished, the hard drive would have been wiped. Anyboby have a comment or advise?
Received my new Samgung HLS-6187 this morning. After using only component cables on my old Mitsubishi I looked forward to observing the difference between component and HDMI. No such luck! The HDMI on the 622 was dead. Switched inputs back and forth between DVD (also HDMI) and the 622. Called Dish. New 622 is on the way. Component looks great on the HLS-6187 hope the HDMI looks as good.
I haven't seen any evidence yet that Dish has resolved the 211/622 HDMI problem. I think that when one trades in a 211/622 with a non-functioning HDMI port, that you get back a new one that has the same inherent weakness - so it is just a matter of time until it breaks.
Unless there really is a software-related issue here that Dish could fix.
Unless there really is a software-related issue here that Dish could fix.
On the chat they mentioned that there was a specific problem with the Vizo (sp?) model TVs.
I was planning on getting a Vizo LCD for the bedroom from Sam's club. Anyone have specific information on the combination of Vizo and the 942??
I was planning on getting a Vizo LCD for the bedroom from Sam's club. Anyone have specific information on the combination of Vizo and the 942??
My VIP211 HDMI output just failed today. Initially thought it was my Panny AE900 but the output from my Toshiba (HDMI) DVD player works fine. Performed several reboots, power down and finally swapped it out with the one upstairs (where I only use the component hook-ups) and it doesn't work either! Called CSR and she had me perform the reboot/power-down which I knew wasn't going to fix it. I had already temporarily wired the component cables to ensure everything else was working. I have my HDMI cables permanently wired in my HT and she tried to convince me to just use the component cables. I told her I'm not spending more money to have extra cables made and ran because of an equipment problem on their part. She then agreed to have a RA for the unit but advised me that they cannot guarantee that it will fix the problem then added that I will be charged $14 for the shipping. I argued politely again and said so basically I'll be getting charged $14 with no guarantee of a fix and didn't think this sounded right. She hesitated for a second then waived the fee. Let's see if this problem will ever be resolved.
Just connected my month-old 622's HDMI output for the first time today. It works! It works!
At least for now.
Made sure to minimize pressure on it.
I found that I had to make significant changes to my brightness and picture settings as opposed to component. Had to tone down my brightness and up my picture settings to get a good balance.
Look for me to be here posting about my broken HDMI in about 4-8 weeks.
At least for now.
Made sure to minimize pressure on it.
I found that I had to make significant changes to my brightness and picture settings as opposed to component. Had to tone down my brightness and up my picture settings to get a good balance.
Look for me to be here posting about my broken HDMI in about 4-8 weeks.
I spoke with dish today and they stated that there would be a new software update the first week of October that would resolve the HDMI issue. I guess I'll wait and see if it actually works.
Reading through this thread, the evidence seems to point to a hardware issue. Certain serial number revs seem to be more susceptible to failure than others.
It would be helpful if people posted their HDMI experience, along with their serial number rev letter and s/w versions they've used. Here's mine:
SN Rev: C
s/w tested:
v360 - no Audio/Video, ever (only got HDMI TV recently)
It would be helpful if people posted their HDMI experience, along with their serial number rev letter and s/w versions they've used. Here's mine:
SN Rev: C
s/w tested:
v360 - no Audio/Video, ever (only got HDMI TV recently)
Congrats on the move/reconnection/HDMI success, Tom! Since you have now relocated the receiver to lessen the noise problem, (at the risk of returning to the original topic) does that mean you'll leave it powered-up 24/7? In that case, and given that you're protecting the HDMI plug/socket, then I think you are much less likely to experience the HDMI problem assuming it would be only HW related. I believe another potential contributor is temp. cycling of the PCB, and if you leave it powered that shouldn't be a problem for you.Tom Bombadil said:
BRgds...
