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And if you are working on a actuator arm, Gm truck use a small one that can be mounted easily. Just make sure you solder and heat shrink the connections,

A perfect candidate for a count doubler mod. And better for a hall mod. Grab a stack of proper sized neodymium magnets from Amazon and 5 minute epoxy away after you Sharpie the N-S polarities.

arlo said:

A perfect candidate for a count doubler mod. And better for a hall mod. Grab a stack of proper sized neodymium magnets from Amazon and 5 minute epoxy away after you Sharpie the N-S polarities.

Click to expand...

Talking about wheel speed sensors from cars?

If so they are perfect, wires already connected, just need a weather tight connection already there, just need to make sure yours is also. Cut he connector off, either solder or use uninsulated butt connectors with heat shrink tubing to seal.

Comptech said:

If so they are perfect, wires already connected, just need a weather tight connection already there, just need to make sure yours is also. Cut he connector off, either solder or use uninsulated butt connectors with heat shrink tubing to seal.

Click to expand...

As you can see (I already knew this from twisting wrenches for a living) the VSS pickups are inductive. Not so great for a magnet creeping by but OK if it zips past the sensor.
A better choice would be a crankshaft sensor. It is a Hall sensor.

A reed switch is going to trip if the magnetic field is strong enough and is the right polarity (depending on the type).
A reluctor will generate a voltage as a magnet passes by the field piece. That's why it needs a magnet zipping by it.

To generate a clean, high enough voltage to trip the device at the other end the trigger has to have sufficient velocity. I'm not so sure your motor controller would be too happy for long getting a voltage pulse if it expects a switch closure.
A hall sensor on the other hand acts like a snap action switch IF it is of the Schmitt trigger type versus proximity type.

In other words it's like the difference between putting your hand over a Mag Light lens and using the switch button to signal SOS.

I know from pissing around with my actuator that a reed switch gives "dirty" waveforms with varying pulse width and worse if the trigger magnets are weak from age or the switch is old.

Or in the case of the small supercrap magnet, I saw it was a 6 pole disc. And one of the poles was wider than the other 5. Resulting in kind of a "pulse-pulse-pulse-pulse-pulse-pulsssssse" waveform display and answered why I was losing or gaining counts on my ASC-1 positioner.
You will want accurate positioning receiving the weak DVB-S signals. And repeatability too. Especially if you're a sat surfer like me.

As I explained in another post I simply made my own trigger wheel with neodymium's with equal spacing and a Hall sensor. Figured out the optimum spacing. Called it a day (weekend). There was a little bit of circuitry in the form of a solid state relay to adapt the Hall to the ASC-1. Like a beers worth and solder and different color wires.
Currently I get something like 2400 counts from 131W to 55W.
So a few here and a few there are easily peaked and saved again.


Inductive

Versus Hall