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I think Lyngsat is pretty accurate, especially since cyberham keeps them current with updates..

comfortably_numb said:

I think Lyngsat is pretty accurate, especially since cyberham keeps them current with updates..

North & South America - LyngSat

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Thanks, yep, I looked at Lyngsat and boy is it confusing. TVROSAT is another that I looked at but not sure if they are "current" or not especially after the stuff that went on with the "new" channels that were posted on 135W last week.

Just saying..................

Lone Gunman said:

Thanks, yep, I looked at Lyngsat and boy is it confusing.

Click to expand...

What's confusing?

Left column is based on your location derived from something (IP address, browser, I'm not really sure)
Pink is below the horizon and orange means you're outside the footprint, so you likely can't get those.
Green and yellow are things that in theory you should be able to find. White is a toss-up.

Third column tells you which bands are available: Ku, C or other.

Then you click on anything for more details of what is available on that sat.

In the example I posted, Jupiter 3, Galaxy 34, AMC 6 and Galaxy 13 have no frequencies listed in the third column, meaning there's nothing there. Also: 133 is yellow and 99 is green, so theoretically I should have a better signal from 99.

Lone Gunman said:

Thanks, yep, I looked at Lyngsat and boy is it confusing. TVROSAT is another that I looked at but not sure if they are "current" or not especially after the stuff that went on with the "new" channels that were posted on 135W last week.

Just saying..................

Click to expand...

To my knowledge, there is NO solid source for this that's guaranteed to be 100% accurate. This stuff changes by the minute. Some sat receivers can be set to auto blindscan at certain time intervals, and that can tell you what was there at the time of the scan.

Man! Probably should be shopping for a new receiver if you're really going to 'update'.
You'll never know if you have 5G interference until you fire it up and scan the arc.
Footprints. Are you located in one where you will get a good signal? I see your lnbf's are "oh, one of those".
Lyngsat. Farthest right column. Newer listings are better. Old ones may or may not have active transponders.
Same ole same ole. Start where you know a satellite is. Identify it. Store it in your dish mover. Find the next one.
Keep track of the counter and difference in positions. Pencil and paper. "Hmm. 127 to 125 is....50 counts difference. So 123 should be here." And so on.
Make us a list of the fuzzies you're having a time grasping.

Well, I guess I should have explained what I'm doing better than I did. The "list" I have is just satellite names, positions and whether C, Ku or both. That list has satellites in numerical order with a blank space in front of each satellite listed that I write the Vbox position number in for future reference.

All I want is to update my list removing or adding satellites/locations etc. NO transponder or channels are on this list, only positions for future reverence. Here is a cut and paste from my existing list, which is out of date.


P10_____/______61Amazonas2-3

P11_____/______61.5Echostar

P12_____/______63Telstar14R

P13_____/______65Star One C1

P14_____/______67 SES 10Ku Only

Alrightey then. Let's give this a go. You appear to use combo c/ku lnbf's. So your c/ku positions should be exactly the same. Since they look in the same place and any satellite that has c&ku transponders. Your stored locations in the dish mover will be the same. And your receiver diseqc position would be the same.
Take for instance looking at the tvro lists. Look at 99.2 W. There are both bands with receivable FTA channels.

Now. If you need for someone to provide those positions to you. That's another thing.
I use 127W as "home base". On my mover the position is 0000 and stored in memory 1.
If (and it will happen as you sweep the arc) the settings get out of kilter. Returning to 127W. Using the dish mover controls to move the dish back to peak the signal. And using the resync, reset position function. Puts your overall satellite positions in alignment.
Huh? What's this guy talking about?

My personal experience. I found 127W. It's set at 0000 on the counter (actuator encoder counts).
Next sat is 125W. Its signal is highest at 135 and stored in the mover in position 2.
Lets zoom up to 99W. Where is it? Set the receiver to a strong C band tp and assign the mover to use memory position 10 for it. Set the receiver tuner setup to use diseqc position 10.
Move the dish until you finally find 99W (let's drop the decimal. okay?).
To peak signal. You have to use the dish mover controls to move the dish East/West. Until the signal as as strong as it can get. Make sure that you are actually on 99W and not a neighbor. Then. Satisfied. Stab the position into the mover memory.
Fine. Let's try 97W. It's a touch East of 99W. Setup the receiver to tune to a strong tp on it. Set the mover for the memory position you please. How about 11?
The counter for 99W was (let's say) 950. So you move the dish until you snag 97W. Make sure it's actually 97W.
Go East. Go West. Until you get the strongest signal. The counter on the mover is....1025. Stab that position in the mover's memory.
Now subtract 97's position from 99's position. Don't forget we have a 0.2 degree increase for 2 degree separation in the satellites. We get a difference of 75. Jot it on a sheet of ruled paper.
97W 1025
............75 difference 2.2 deg.
99.2W 950

Get all setup to grab 101W. Receiver, mover memory slot chosen. Do it again. Peak the signal and store the location.
Now. "Bumping" the dish all over the place is going to add errors in the positions. Accept that it will happen.
The italics above are your eraser marks as you go forward.
You've found 101W. Peaked the signal for it. Stored the position. Maybe even scanned in the channels. Jotted down the settings.
Pull your socks up. Return to 127W. Your home, or reference satellite. What happened to the signal? It's probably weaker that it initially was. Right? So you move the dish to make it strong again. And find that the counter for it used to be 0000 but for strongest signal it's now + 0016. That's the price we pay for bumping that dish all over the place.
It's cool. Enter the resync or reset position menu and commit the function. And it returns to 0000.
All the following satellites after your 2nd, 3rd, 4th sat will most probably show incremental signal strength decreases.
But moving the dish with the remote until peaked and storing the positions again should allow you to zoom down to 127 or 125 and back again to it with hardly any signal difference at all. And you can do it for some while.
As long as you don't continually bump the dish for each and every satellite to get that last 0.1 dB.
So. Advice is to when initially finding and storing satellites is to frequently return to the home sat and resync.

Now. As far as your polar mount geometry and linear actuator goes. Everyone will be different. And you may find that for lower arc sats, for example, may have a 130-140 mover count difference in 2 degree spacing.
But as the dish goes higher in the arc those numbers decrease. 101 to 103 may be only 115 count difference.

Best advice is to look at the sat charts and decide which channels you would like to try to receive.
I mentioned upgrading your receiver. Because many broadcast, etc. channels are in 4:2:2 video format and watching them requires an offboard program such as VLC or Kodi to watch.
My opinion and I'll stick with it is to ponder a Linux Enigma2 receiver over a firmware based one.

Over!