arc set

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I have never set anything to .31 as I don't know how.
This may help...
Footprints by Dish Size - Adjusting the Polar Mount for Prime Focus Antenna - C/Ku-Band Satellite Systems - Tuning, Tracking, Azimuth, Elevation, Declination Angles, F/D Ratio, Focal Distance, Inclinometer, LNB/Feedhorn Assembly, Actuator Assembly, C
The DMX741 has markings on the side, but not the best. If you have the original feedhorn, you can use that as a guide.

Also, are you aligning the DMX's "zero" mark to the Dishes Axis?
 
Thank you Lak7 for replying.
I've read all the stuff you suggested several times and it doesn't help.
I have the bsc621.2d LNB and the only markings on it is an arrow up
at the top where the KU is connected. I have set the arrow straight up
when pointing the dish straight up. Or Nimik 4 (82 degrees).
 
Today I tried adjusting the lnb on G13-c. I pushed it in about an inch a little at a time and even twisted a little clockwise. NOTHING. Haven't tried pulling it out or twisting counterclockwise. I used the analysis by the guy that makes the ARC-SET to put the face of the dish where G13 should be. Now I can't even get the analog channels that I got before. Got kind of hot so I quit for the day. Maybe I'll think of something else I can do tomorrow.
I beginning to think you guys are putting me on and there is no more C-Band.
 
I know it can be a very touchy setting up a c-band dish set up.Im still trying to get mine to scan the whole arc,with partial success.I have the DMX741 LNB like Lak7 has and i have found it is very touchy on getting a good signal.They say to set it up with skew markers set at 12 or 6 oclock!but i have found that my best q signal is at around 2 oclock and around 1" showing on the inside of the scaler ring.
 
Thank you for responding StanleyJohn,
At least I fixed one thing. I was losing click count with an old superjack.
I had an old Weiss so I took it apart and cleaned and greased it up and
the darn thing seems to be working. It is a tad shorter than the superjack but
not an 18 incher. Doesn't have a rubber sleave where the 2 shafts expand.
Will have to figure out something to do about that. Better than another $150.

I rechecked my focal length. It is 37.1". That measures to the back of the
funnel shaped goody on the button hook. So I have marked the bsc621-2d
1/14" back from the end of the LNB. I think this is right. Next I will try
moving the lnb to the right until I get to 180 degrees from where I started.
If that doesn't do anything then I will move it 90 degres to the left. Trail and
error is sure a nice way to do things LOL.
 
Trail and error is sure a nice way to do things LOL.
Put the Dish on your Southern Sat / Highest Point / Zenith, and pop the feedhorn cap off....
Measure from the Center of the Dish to 1/4" inside the Feedhorn, that should be 37.1
Now stand from behind the Dish and look up into the Feedhorn, the 1/4" metal rod should be Horizontal, with the Square Box on the West side.
 
HI Lak7.
Thanks for responding.
I know what you are saying and would do it if I could.

I have a button hook dish. It has about a 12" plastic funnel shaped
affair on the end of a 1 and 1/2" pipe sticking out of the center of
the dish. In the middle of this pipe are the wires going to the lnb.
It isn't possible to see about 4' into a dark wire filled pipe to see the
horizontal bar in the lnb IMHO.
 
Todays fiasco.
Set the dish face to 58.88 degrees or G13 (127 degrees.)
Then started turning the lnb clockwise. The signal on the Pico Peaker got
strong but got no results on the Pansat 2800. Turning it counter clockwise didn't solve anything either.
There is one peculiarity on the Pansat that has been going on since I started this.
The signal level is flipping all over the place and never stops. From say 20 to 90.

Tomorrow I will reset the lnb to where I had it and see if I can get the analog
stations again. Don't know what else to do.
 
Set the dish face to 58.88 degrees or G13 (127 degrees.)
Is this a motorized setup?
If so, you should be trying to Lock you True South Sat, or something close, first.
Then you can drive the Dish to your desired Sat.
 
Thanks for responding Lak7.
Yes the dish is motorized.

I did the straight up thingy on Nimik4 (82 degrees) then was able to get CSPAN
analog on amc9 ch 4.

Then when I drove the dish down to G13 (127 degrees) with the dish face set
to 58.88 degrees. I got nothing on C-band. The Pansat signal level kept on
doing the 20 to 90 signal level over and over again.

Going to start over tomorrow and do the straight up thing again with the
lnb set back to where I got CSPAN analog.
 
lnb set back to where I got CSPAN analog.
With the Dish at it's Highest Point, Double check the Elevation and Declination for your area
Set the LNB the way I told you, then check for channels
Are you using a 4DTV for analog?
 
Thank you Lak7.
Will do and will double check.
I am using a Uniden sq530 for a pusher and for analog signals.
 
Well todays experiment was unsuccessful.
Yes I was able to get Cspan analog on AMC 9 (83d W) and the Shepard's chappel
analog on G16 (99d W). Then I tried to get C-band signals on G16 - nothing.
All the time the Pansat Signal level is jumping all over the place.

I feel after all this time that the Pansat 2800 and the bsc621-2d are
incompatible. When the tree fell on my previous dish I had Norsat
c/ku lnbs working fine with the Pansat 2800.
I still have the Norsat 8515 c-band digital pro. It appears that it is still
in good condition. The scalar ring and the Norsat KU lnb were destroyed.
If someone could tell me how/where to get a scalar ring and what Norsat KU lnb,
I think my problems would end. Then I can junk the bsc621-2d.
Does any one feel that this might be a problem?
Working on a satellite dish in 90+ heat is no fun.
 
Signal level is the one that's jumping.
Quality is never good.
Also but not sure, I don't think the software for the
Pansat 2800 was intended for this type of LNB. It
worked fine with the Norsats.
Where can I get another scalar ring for the Norsat 8515?

You mean from the Pico-Peaker to the lnb.

What about dumping the bsc621-2d?
 
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