Balancing a BUD for full actuator range

[ayelvington]

I got my BUD on the arc last week, and was delighted to get PBS-HD before I hit the horizon of the bluff behind the house. I judged the installation of the actuator so that I could just get the top of the bluff to the west, and a reasonable travel to the east.

Problem, the dish balance keeps the actuator from traveling east after it gets to the far western satellites.

Question: Is there a trick to "balancing" a BUD to give the actuator a fighting chance to move it back and forth? I've considered putting a counterweight on an arm, but it have the feeling that I'm overlooking something obvious.

Help?

 

[primestar31]

That all depends on the design of the polar mount itself. Many early models were made that are NOT balanced, and will "flop over" to either side depending on which side you put the actuator, and how far you drive it. A polar mount, no matter how well designed is NOT an Horizon to Horizon mount, and can never go full East to full West. Most people compromise by adjusting it so that they pick up the main sats they want to either side.

You can try playing with an old weight set that hangs out of middle back, but as I said above, if your mount isn't designed to be balanced in the first place, it won't help much, and might still flop over.

 

[FaT Air]

the dish balance keeps the actuator from traveling east after it gets to the far western satellites.

The actuator doesn't have the power to lift it towards center when far west. Hmmmm.
Counter weight out the back center of dish is one solution. Couldn't find the thread that has good pictures of one mans solution.
Another is have the east edge of the dish lift a weight when off towards the west. Weight will rest on the ground after the dish is at an angle where the actuator doesn't 'need he;p'.
How close does the actuator tube come to the polar pivot when you're dish is all the way west?
The closer the more chance of 'flop-over'.

 

[RimaNTSS]

How close does the actuator tube come to the polar pivot when you're dish is all the way west? The closer the more chance of 'flop-over'.

I make this gap controllable by mechanical means, so, never get flop-overs. At the same time West/East separation is not less than 125 degrees. I call this measure- mechanical stop with that you can even remove actuator from antenna and antenna will still stay in the most-East or most-West position.

 

[primestar31]

By the way, before we go further: What brand name and length of actuator do you presently use on this dish? What's the type and size of the dish? All important info needed for any further educated informed answers.

I had an 11ft fiberglass dish once, and it needed a 36" actuator. I got a ball-screw version for that, and it was $250 back in the mid-90's. Yes, very expensive back then, but well worth it...

P.S. It's possible to have an actuator RIP APART if it's not the proper one for the dish, and that can ruin your whole day! If what you have now is one of those cheap Chinese actuators, be especially careful.

 

[Lone Gunman]

By the way, before we go further: What brand name and length of actuator do you presently use on this dish? What's the type and size of the dish? All important info needed for any further educated informed answers.

I had an 11ft fiberglass dish once, and it needed a 36" actuator. I got a ball-screw version for that, and it was $250 back in the mid-90's. Yes, very expensive back then, but well worth it...

P.S. It's possible to have an actuator RIP APART if it's not the proper one for the dish, and that can ruin your whole day! If what you have now is one of those cheap Chinese actuators, be especially careful.

BINGO primestar! And I'll go one more step with that, ie, ayelvington why don't you list your equipment in your signature so that we know what you are working with, like mine and others here? Makes things a lot simpler.

 

[ayelvington]

Hello all,

C-band is a BUD and actuator that are rescues from a neighbor down the road. The dish is a Wingard 10', and I have no clue on the provenance of the actuator. Installation photos half-way through this thread: http://www.satelliteguys.us/xen/threads/lifting-a-10-bud-into-place-question.261497/

The BUD is controlled by an early V-Box. (Love it)

Ku band is a 90cm dish, Sandoun universal LNB, and a H-H using USALS.

Ku and C band are united through a receiver-controlled switch. (Working very nicely, thank you)


MicroHD is the incumbent receiver. I hadn't listed receivers to date since I've thrown so many away. Seriously, there is a lot of trashy hardware out there. I loved my Traxis Mercury II, but my lust for HD has pushed it to the back as a spare. X2Sat Premium in the garbage

I'll take the time to put together an inventory some time. Just not high on priorities now. (Mostly waiting for crappy weather to pass so that I can get back to cutting firewood)

"Winter mix" promised for tomorrow, so the wife and I are going north to Buffalo to celebrate our anniversary week. I'll photograph the polar mount when the weather clears. I like the idea of a moment-arm and weight that rests on the ground until the dish gets to the "flop point". I'll look at other posts too.

Thanks to all,

Al