Cleaning up and mounting a BUD

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Your line of sight, with no trees, buildings, etc,should be around 30W to 137-139W. Having said that,I would start by focusing on 87W to 107W. The ones I personally watch a lot are 97,99,101,103, and 105W.
Finally got on my laptop and looked at the dishes on a bigger screen, lol.. According to diahpointer.com

I can see from 30w to 139w with the closet obstacles being 50ft(+/-) trees well over 200ft away, according to the site that is so guess I'm doing good on that part...

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Well in the coming weeks/months I should have the following here and ready to set up :

Linkbox 9000i receiver ( hopefully it comes pre-programmed and not blank like I've heard of)
Titanium ASC1 controller (going to need setup instructions, if it doesn't come with any)
Titanium LNBF
Actuator


I do believe short of the cables and the like that is my list of things to have.. If I forgot any please advise... Otherwise appreciate the help and will definitely have updates as I go slowly through this process

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I plan to add KU band on a separate dish later, so I know I'll need a splitter or switch or whatever they are called, but should I get them now and have them in now? If so what do I need to get?

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What is hot switching?
I apologize I should have explained more. Hot switching is changing out connections on something while the device or device feeding it is still on.
It is highly recommend that you turn off your receiver(and/or unplug some) before changing out coax connections out at the dish. This can be any coax connection, switch, LNB(F), USALS motor, etc.
When your receiver is on,it is supplying 12-19 Volts DC down the coax to power the LNB(F), Switch, etc. So it is considered "HOT" while in this state.
 
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I apologize I should have explained more. Hot switching is changing out connections on something while the device or device feeding it is still on.
It is highly recommend that you turn off your receiver(and/or unplug some) before changing out coax connections out at the dish. This can be any coax connection, switch, LNB(F), USALS motor, etc.
When your receiver is on,it is supplying 12-19 Volts DC down the coax to power the LNB(F), Switch, etc. So it is considered "HOT" while in this state.
Oh definitely wouldn't do that, I'm used to computers so I should have figured it out from the word Hot... Well I calculated the amount and its over 700 to get everything, lol girlfriend is having a cow, screaming you said it was free

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Yea my wife kinda said the same thing, which is why i put the ku dish up first, now she kinda wants it over at the house with is almost impossible with the trees we have.
 
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Yea my wife kinda said the same thing, which is why i put the ku dish up first, now she kinda wants it over at the house with is almost impossible with the trees we have.
I had considered doing KU first for both cost and ease of install, but she wanted the networks more than anything so C-BAND had to come first, but it'll be OK, she's going to help pay for the equipment, lol...

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So I got the other dish, looks like a 12' everything looks good except for the two tears on the outer edge of the mesh...
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will it effect it, or should I replace / repair?

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Just straighten them out and stitch it up with some small gauge metal wire.Blow on a little black paint and it will be practically invisible.Shouldn't take but a few minutes and you'll be good to go. :thumbup
 
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The second dish's actuator looks to be in far better condition then the first one.. How do I go about checking it to see if it works and cleaning it up, it's a super jack (what's listed on the side)

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...How do I go about checking it to see if it works and cleaning it up, it's a super jack (what's listed on the side)

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You can use a car/motorcycle/lawn tractor/power tool battery, or a DC power supply of say 12-36 volts and sufficient amperage.

Hook to the motor power wires, reverse polarity to reverse direction.

Do not apply power to the sensor circuit.
 
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You can use a car/motorcycle/lawn tractor/power tool battery, or a DC power supply of say 12-36 volts and sufficient amperage.

Hook to the motor power wires, reverse polarity to reverse direction.

Do not apply power to the sensor circuit.
Reverse polarity? Positive to negative lead and negative to positive lead? I have a CHARGER for those types of batteries, but none of those batteries anymore, would it work?

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Reverse polarity? Positive to negative lead and negative to positive lead? I have a CHARGER for those types of batteries, but none of those batteries anymore, would it work?

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Yes, hook the wires up one way to extend the arm and reverse to retract.
Yes, most chargers will work, some of the newer "smart" ones may act funny, but that should work too.
 
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