Found my old Equipment. Need opinions?

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GetBit03

SatelliteGuys Family
Original poster
Jan 30, 2013
76
8
St. Louis MO.
Been out of the C-Band stuff for about ten years now. Got busy with family and stuff! Anyways I was digging through old boxes and found all my old C-Band-KU-Band equipment the other day and need opinions on if any of it is still worth anything and if it is where should I sell it? I still have a BUD in my back yard half hooked up it needs a new dish mover and the cable hooked up and buried. 10 years ago I put a new C-Band and KU-Band LNB, feedhorn and servo motor on it. If I were to get back into the C-Band KU-Band stuff what would you keep to use and is there anything up there free like there used to be? I know I can get a FTA receiver and get more. Can i run it off my BUD?

Here is a list of everything I found.
Chaparall Monterey 90 with remote/antenna and Pink VCRS
Motorolla DSR905 Digital Sidecar-Needs PSU I think It worked for a week and quit I was very mad after what I spent on!
General Instruments DSR920 4DTV Box with remote and pink VCRS.
IQ Prism Receiver with remotes and pink VCRS
Chaparall C-Band feedhorn
Servo motors
couple c-band LNB's
Couple KU-Band LNB's
Couple VCRS Modules
I think it's a 6' BUD it's a smaller one.
Primestar dish
LNB and mount for that dish to use with FTA.

Thanks for the help! Chris
 
:welcome to SatelliteGuys

VCRS board - remove all of them. The battery is close to leaking (DEAD) . May damage the unit their in.
(Keep "on hand' in case the one channel using that technology goes ITC, maybe)

Recommend an FTA receiver capable of DVB-S2 and h264.

Option ONE
Monterey 90 can be used to move the dish(power the actuator) And operate the servo (Polarity) The
Monterey 90 will also be necessary to power the LNB's. Special splitters will be required that only pass power on one side. One in Ku coax, 1 in C band coax.
(Think there are only 5 or 6 analog signals left that the
Monterey 90 will get)
The power blocked ports will go to a switch, either diseqc or 22khz, so the FTA receiver can select which LNB it uses. C or Ku.
Option TWO
Replace the feedhorn/ LNB's with a LNBF**.
The
Monterey 90 then is used to move the dish ONLY.
FTA receivers operate the polarity via the LNB(F) voltage.
Option TWO+
Replace the
Monterey 90 with a V-Box to operate the actuator.
The FTA receiver has total control of the dish position and polarity.

A 6 ft BUD is on the small side for the new DVB-S2 signals. I may get some, but will fall well short of 'them all'. 8 ft recommended, 10 is the norm.

**LNBF's are available in 'dual band', C and Ku in one package. Problem is they are a compromise. They compromise performance to accommodate both bands.
So for the best the 6ft can do I'd recommend a C band only LNBF. Ku on a separate Ku dish ~36 inches across.

Your 920 MAY still be usable. I'll leave that to those 'in the know' here. (I've never had any 4DTV receivers)

Think that covers the 'basics' of what needs to be done.
I know there's 'details' left to cover.
There's many here ready to answer your next questions.
Fire away.
 
The 4DTV receivers could be subscribed today, if they haven't lost their backup battery.
Programming is limited, and all on one bird.
I believe 6' is just big enough for 4Dtv, but get other opinions.
So, it's either a cup half full, or a cup half empty.

As a general use bud, 6' is better than nothing, but not what I'd recommend (hot 8' or any 10').
You could outfit it with a C band LNBF, wire it to a modern FTA receiver and get a lot of programming.
Will it be what you want? That's always the question.
Ya kind of need to declare your interests and likes.

For Ku, tell us more about your Primestar dish.
Model, or dimensions (don't guess - measure it).
Include pictures of both.
The quality of your photos will be reflected in the feedback you get! ;)
 
I'll get pictures of everything up as soon as i download them. The primestar is a oval dish i bought a few of them when the FTA first got popular along with three adjustable KU LNBF's. I sold one dish and LNBF and have two left over as I was going to install my own FTA System but never got around to it. I am mainly looking for good FTA Testing. Been out of the game a long long time and it's like I'm learning everything over. I have a Dish Network subscription so I will not use the FTA for a SUB or everyday. Just mainly for fun! I've always been into the FTA Thing! I live in a subdivision and barely got away with the 6' dish thats why I went that route it was that or nothing! Basicly I need to remove the CorotorII C and KU LNB's from the C-Band dish replace it with a C-Band only LNBF and put up my primestar dish for the KU side? What about a mover for the primestar? What receiver? Can I have the 920 remapped by someone or myself to pick up everything a new Receiver would? or should I just buy another receiver?? Thanks for the help! P.S. Fired the DSR905 up after ten years and thinking it was broke and what do you know it fired right up! Backup battery good and all! It was only a month old when I put it back in it's box! Either of the 4dtv's have been hooked to a dish in 10 years if that makes a difference?
 
Basicly I need to remove the CorotorII C and KU LNB's from the C-Band dish replace it with a C-Band only LNBF and put up my primestar dish for the KU side?
Sounds like a good plan.
What about a mover for the primestar?
I read a lot of recommendations for the DG-380. What size is your dish? Pictures or the model # on the back side??
What receiver?
FTA - Got to again recommend the microHD. from SatelliteAV. Supported right here, designed right here. DVB-S & S2, mpeg2, h264 (specs too long to list completely here)
Can I have the 920 remapped by someone or myself to pick up everything a new Receiver would?
Yes. for the DCII that's ITC & to subscribe to the 4DTV service.
I don't think there is a new receiver available, no, there isn't.
FTA receivers and the DCII receivers do not recieve the same channels.
FTA=DVB-S and DVB-S2. DCII=digicipher2 (4DTV)
Pink VCRS
Remove them, essentially worthless, (Keep "on hand' in case the one channel using that analog technology goes ITC, maybe)

Shopping cart: microHD receiver, C band LNBF, diseqc or 22khz switch.
Hey, just like mine was a few years ago, except at that time the microHD wasn't available yet.

NOTE: best performance could be had with an orthomode feedhorn. 2 LNB's and a modified multiswitch. Maybe something to upgrade to later.(?)
 
here is a pic of the primestar. BTW it is 40X30

IMG_2259_zps20106ade.jpg
 
NOTE: best performance could be had with an orthomode feedhorn. 2 LNB's and a modified multiswitch. Maybe something to upgrade to later.(?)[/QUOTE]

Also whats this? I want this set up right for something I can use for a long tome?

They now sell a 6ft C/KU dish? did I read that add wrong? If they sell a 6ft what would be wrong with my 6ft for both C/KU? Am I missing something?

What will I use to move the C band dish? Also the KU Dish? Do I need two VBox's??

I'm trying to set up a simple easy to use C-band KU-band FTA system with room to grow in the future without needing to replace already bought items!

I'm thinking about selling the 920 and keeping the 905 and Chaparrel 90 for future testing and just in case. Replacing the CoRotorII with a C/KU LNBF, replacing the actuator, getting a VBox and a MicroHD Receiver. DISEqC/22K Switch? Which one? 2x1 2x4? Is my plan flawed? Do I need anything else?

Sorry for all the questions I'm just trying to relearn and make this as cheap and easy as possible! Thanks, Chris
 
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A 6 ft BUD is on the small side for the new DVB-S2 signals. I may get some, but will fall well short of 'them all'. Good reason to recommend an 8 ft or larger.

LNBF's are available in 'dual band', C and Ku in one package. Problem is they are a compromise. They compromise performance to accommodate both bands.
Think you'd want to get the most you can, So for the best the 6ft can do I'd recommend a C band only LNBF. Ku on a separate Ku dish ~36 inches across.

Vbox uses diseqc commands to move the bud.
A Ku dish motor uses USALS to move the dish. One recommended quite often is the DG-380.

But by all means you can use a dual band C Ku on the BUD. But bear in mind what's been recommended and the why's.

An orthomode feed horn - type will get the best possible performance of any dish. Something to research and possibly utilize later in your journey.


Switch - check the Switches Simplified in the FAQ's..

If you go with dual C Ku LNBF on the BUD -
Think I'd get at least a single 22Khz switch so that I could also set up the primestar**, aim it, and compare it's performance against the BUD & dual band LNBF.

There's always options, choose, install and then upgrade and add to as needed, as determined by you.

room to grow in the future without needing to replace already bought items!

growing is adding dishes but often means replacing "already bought' with something new. Usually replaced with higher performance components.

**BTW: are their any specifications on that Ku LNBF?? For some reason I have a feeling it's circular polarity, and the L.O. isn't 10750. Another thing noticed is the primestar dish is elliptical. (Wider that tall) Being the feed horn on the LNBF is circular, there will be a performance loss there also. (Been there, dun that)
 
It is for sure a dual output linear LNB with a L.O. of 10.750 and a 55db. gain. It was a repackaged SkyVista LNB. It was a LNB used back in the day with ExVu and the 105 bird on a 30m dish. I set one up 12 years ago for FTA with this exact setup for a friend who wanted a channel out of Syria on Galaxy 10R I think. I bought everything at the same time but I never got around to putting mine up. It was basicly a budget friendly, redilly available, reliable option back when FTA stuff was crazy Expensive. I always tried to figure out a way to repurpose unused unwanted equipment plus I was broke.......well that has not changed! LOL. If the C/KU setup on the BUD is not going to get the channels and or be reliable I will just put up the PS dish I already have and be done as long as I can get it to work with the bud together. Plus I'm not even sure the mesh on the BUD is small enough to receive KU? Another question the PS dish has the Large pole mount on the rear will that work with a mover made for the smaller pole mount or do I need a special mover?? I will need a 2x1 switch to put the LNB's to one wire correct? will the dishes move together?? Also would I benefit at all by putting a conical scaler on the C-Band LNBF?
 
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I'm not even sure the mesh on the BUD is small enough to receive KU?
holes larger than a pencil lead is usually considered too large for good performance. Mine is that expanded sheet metal where the holes are about 3/16x3/8. It worked, but very poorly, 30 inch offset out performed it.**
Another question the PS dish has the Large pole mount on the rear will that work with a mover made for the smaller pole mount or do I need a special mover??
Pictures would help. But in the past many have fabricated their own mounting system to make them work on a motor.(DG-380 being only one model) Search the forum primestar & motor or HH90 or dg-380. The other solution is a home made, or repurposed small BUD, polar mount. Problem there is it would then need a Vbox and require special programming***
I will need a 2x1 switch to put the LNB's to one wire correct?
A 22Khz switch will work. A diseqc (4x1) would facilitate later expansion.
will the dishes move together??
If one is on a motor(USALS) and the other is moved by a Vbo:mad:diseqc)or or both run by a Vbox with the special programming is instituted, No, except when using the E and W commands of the receiver front panel or remote.
Best practice is to set up one dish at a time. Then add the switch to connect them into one coax to the receiver.
***Special programming- something like odd position numbers for the Ku, even #'s for C.

**I went with mounting a 30 inch on the lower lip of the BUD to scan the skies. Fixed dishes on my more popular satellites. Yeah, I know it's small, but being a commercial model, it does all right.
 

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Now that is cool mounting it to the lower lip of the BUD!!! Does it keep in line with the birds when the BUD moves? Never thought of that! that could simplify things for me! If I do mount them seperatly and do evens and odds I can command them seperatly to move to the same position?
 
YES and YES. Tracks as good as the dish it's on, perfectly. A Ku dish motor IS a polar mount.
http://www.satelliteguys.us/free-ai...-i-made-c-only-bud.html?highlight=Bud+play+Ku
One possible problem is the weight of the dish(es). My BUD is 100% HD steel construction. Lightweight aluminum may need some reinforcement.
If I had an aluminum dish, think I'd use a 36 inch stamped steel dish, as they are a lot lighter than even my 30 inch 'glass Channel Master. I wouldn't even consider putting my 84e on it. 1.2m? NO WAY.

Select C band Sat (position #even) Have to wait between moving the other (odd #'s) as the other Vbox will error.(Un-programmed position 'called')
If one is a USALS motor the diseqc command may stop it's movement 'mid way'. Don't know for sure, Haven't done it, but many have.
The USALS motors will recognize diseqc commands.
They can also be 'programmed' in diseqc mode for satellite positions.
The Vbox doesn't recognize USALS and ignores them.
E & W movement commands are diseqc in either case, USALS motor and Vbox.
 
There is more at play than just using a finer mesh. Surface accuracy, efficiency and beam width are major differences between reflectors.

Not worth the time and effort to try and convert a reflector for KU band use. Likely to still be a poor KU performer even with tighter mesh.

If a DiSEqC 1.2 position is not saved in a controller or motor, the device will not be affected by issued DiSEqC 1.2 commands.
 
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