Ku band LNBF Mounting Ideas Needed

Using a straight cable without switches is a good idea, that's one less thing to worry about. I think I read earlier that you are trying to get 125W Ku. That's a rather difficult one. While it's definitely possible to receive it well, it's also a rather touchy one, a bit like either you lock on it, or you go in circle for a while in the dark, especially from our area in the NorthEast.

Instead, try CGTN on 95W, that's probably the easiest target in Ku. Other fairly easy ones: NHK on 103W and KBS on 123W (might be easy to aim for that one and still be able to reach the LNBF from a step ladder). Once you get satisfactory reception on those, look for 125W.

As far as skew, while i'm not familiar with the SL1-PLL, I would guess that the F connector should be pointing toward the ground when the dish is aiming at the top of the arc, parallel to the polar axis of the mount. and the LNBF should be aligned with the C-Band one in the plane that is perpendicular to the polar axis. Have the front of the LNBF more or less aligned with the front of the C-Band LNBF. Keep in mind that the reflector acts as a mirror, so if your Ku LNBF is East of the C-Band, your aim will be West of the C-Band, so for a given sat, for Ku aim further East to compensate for that difference. On mine, the difference is somewhere near 8 degrees. So for 95W Ku, aim your positionner either to 103W or 87W, do a blind scan, move a bit east or west, scan again, etc. In the end you should find something. Fine tune it as mush as you can

One more thing. Your dish mount alignment was tuned with C-Band. Ku is a lot less forgiving. So you might find that the alignment that was working well for C-Band might not work so well for Ku. You might need to compromise a bit somewhere.
 
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arlo,

I went out a short time ago between rain showers and took this picture.
As you can see the Ku LNBF is behind the the C Band feedhorn.
I'm sure fine tuning the F/D will improve the signal, but for now and because of the rainy weather, it will suffice.
Hope this helped.

John

ku lnbf.jpg
 
arlo,

I went out a short time ago between rain showers and took this picture.
As you can see the Ku LNBF is behind the the C Band feedhorn.
I'm sure fine tuning the F/D will improve the signal, but for now and because of the rainy weather, it will suffice.
Hope this helped.

John

View attachment 144371
That's the photo I was waiting for.
I'll put one up later of mine.
I aimed the dish at 123W C band and holy smokes couldn't get a signal. +5, +10, +15....back and forth.
Put it back on 123W C band and did a blind scan. Got enough of a "strange" list of TPs that didn't make sense.
Slapped on my Dreamlink FTA receiver (they ID sat names) and I was picking up a signal from 110W. A DN sat.
That's 80 counts difference on my ASC-1. Got my head screwed on straight and grabbed a bunch of sats.

My Ku lnbf body (not plastic rain cover) is appx. 3/8 back from the C band lnbf throat opening.
Explains why I am getting a fat beam width. Takes about +/- 10 bumps of ASC-1 counts to get or lose signal.
Tweaks come later on. I'm guessing you've peaked your signal and that tells me I need to pull my feed back a bit.
Right now signal strength is in the 16-18 dB. Better than C band actually.

The only "bug" was putting in a 22KHz 1x2 switch on the back of the ASC-1 to use both LNBF's.
No joy with receiver settings. Put on a 1x8 DISEqC 1.1switch and got both feeds working.
Perhaps a bug in OpenATV.
 

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