It does cool down, but not until after it is too late for me to get up there. I am an early bird anyway, so I usually try to do anything I need to do in the early hours of the day.
My Fourth BUD on the roof
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hot roof
A little off topic, but about the heat on the roof . . .
If you could lower the temp, wouldn't that reduce the heat input to the building , too?
I have seen a roofing material that looks like white liquid latex (for lack of a better description), which has reflective material in it (maybe mica chips for all I know).
The idea is, it'll seal a leaky roof by pour/sweep/painting it on, but being white, it should also absorb a lot less energy, too.
Might save enough on your cooling bill to pay for itself in a couple of years.
You'll find it at home building stores.
It comes in 5 gallon buckets, and it's pretty thick.
I'm no roofing expert. For all I know, it's snake-oil.
But just thought I'd bring it up.
A little off topic, but about the heat on the roof . . .
If you could lower the temp, wouldn't that reduce the heat input to the building , too?
I have seen a roofing material that looks like white liquid latex (for lack of a better description), which has reflective material in it (maybe mica chips for all I know).
The idea is, it'll seal a leaky roof by pour/sweep/painting it on, but being white, it should also absorb a lot less energy, too.
Might save enough on your cooling bill to pay for itself in a couple of years.
You'll find it at home building stores.
It comes in 5 gallon buckets, and it's pretty thick.
I'm no roofing expert. For all I know, it's snake-oil.
But just thought I'd bring it up.
great idea
on the levelers and as long as the family is happy I have seen them place a product like that on roofs also one like they put on house trailers in silver & white , also a plastic sheeting material (long sheets) i'm sure these would save on cooling cost but i think they take years to recover investment.
Hey Anole,
We have looked at the white liquid and found the pricing to be very expensive considering that we have 5500 sq ft to cover. That is one of the draw backs to having a large roof. A decision is made when the building is built to save money in the building of the roof and go with a flat one and spend the money on maintenance, or do it right with a pitched roof and pay the huge extra money up front. You'll see that most large buildings, even new ones opt for the flat type.
The part that we air condition is only about 3000 sq ft, and considering that the walls are 12" thick concrete block on two sides, and 12" concrete block with brick facing on two sides plus a 4" insulated drywall inside all that, and an 8' ceiling with blown in insulation on top of it, it isn't too bad on the electric bill. It gets really hot in the warehouse part, but that is just for storage.
The plus side, is that in the winter, it is a piece of cake to heat it. Even the warehouse doesn't get cold enough for the pipes to freeze.
It is still expensive to maintain that big a roof. I am currently investigating buying a used hot tar kettle that I can put permanently in a fenced in cage in the back of the building, hook it up to natural gas, (there is piping already installed there, used to have an incinerator but took it out) and have a roofing party every year, and tar about 1/4 of the roof each year instead of chunking out the money all at once every 4 years.
I am also trying to find some steel stairs for the back. Just missed some free ones on Craig's list a couple of months back. Some scrapper got them.
Even with all the problems associated with it, I love living here, and I love that roof.
Fred
We have looked at the white liquid and found the pricing to be very expensive considering that we have 5500 sq ft to cover. That is one of the draw backs to having a large roof. A decision is made when the building is built to save money in the building of the roof and go with a flat one and spend the money on maintenance, or do it right with a pitched roof and pay the huge extra money up front. You'll see that most large buildings, even new ones opt for the flat type.
The part that we air condition is only about 3000 sq ft, and considering that the walls are 12" thick concrete block on two sides, and 12" concrete block with brick facing on two sides plus a 4" insulated drywall inside all that, and an 8' ceiling with blown in insulation on top of it, it isn't too bad on the electric bill. It gets really hot in the warehouse part, but that is just for storage.
The plus side, is that in the winter, it is a piece of cake to heat it. Even the warehouse doesn't get cold enough for the pipes to freeze.
It is still expensive to maintain that big a roof. I am currently investigating buying a used hot tar kettle that I can put permanently in a fenced in cage in the back of the building, hook it up to natural gas, (there is piping already installed there, used to have an incinerator but took it out) and have a roofing party every year, and tar about 1/4 of the roof each year instead of chunking out the money all at once every 4 years.
I am also trying to find some steel stairs for the back. Just missed some free ones on Craig's list a couple of months back. Some scrapper got them.
Even with all the problems associated with it, I love living here, and I love that roof.
Fred
reflective roof
Where I grew up in Florida, we had a very low-pitch roof.
On the outside, it was tar covered, then they put crushed white rock on top.
I think the rock material was about quarter to half inch chunks.
I was about to suggest putting on a thin layer of fresh tar then a thin layer of fine white sand, but . . .
. . . what about just tossing a few 5-gallon pails of white playground sand (or maybe there's something more exotic) out on the existing dry roof?
What could that possibly cost?
Think of it like the sawdust on a cowboy bar-room floor.
Anything that makes -most- of the roof not-tar-black, should help.
Obviously, the goal is to make the roof less hot for ya when you have to go up there.
Where I grew up in Florida, we had a very low-pitch roof.
On the outside, it was tar covered, then they put crushed white rock on top.
I think the rock material was about quarter to half inch chunks.
I was about to suggest putting on a thin layer of fresh tar then a thin layer of fine white sand, but . . .
. . . what about just tossing a few 5-gallon pails of white playground sand (or maybe there's something more exotic) out on the existing dry roof?
What could that possibly cost?
Think of it like the sawdust on a cowboy bar-room floor.
Anything that makes -most- of the roof not-tar-black, should help.
Obviously, the goal is to make the roof less hot for ya when you have to go up there.
Some contractors do put rock on tar roofs, others don't.
I asked one about it, and he didn't have an answer.
Anything that is put up there unless it is embedded into the tar will just wash off, or blow off in the wind.
The couple of months of the year when it is unbearably hot, I'll just have to do whatever needs to be done in the early morning hours.
On the bright side, even on a 20 degree winter day as long as the wind is calm, I can be very comfortable up there working. So I guess there are good and bad as with everything else.
Fred
I asked one about it, and he didn't have an answer.
Anything that is put up there unless it is embedded into the tar will just wash off, or blow off in the wind.
The couple of months of the year when it is unbearably hot, I'll just have to do whatever needs to be done in the early morning hours.
On the bright side, even on a 20 degree winter day as long as the wind is calm, I can be very comfortable up there working. So I guess there are good and bad as with everything else.
Fred
last roof comment - cheap white trash
I had lunch with a buddy today, and described what I'd told ya.
He said roofing supply stores have very small white rock material maybe 1/16 or 1/8th diameter.
It's some sort of light, hollow, rock material, maybe volcanic.
Not sure of the composition.
But it's very cheap, and it's -white-
He was talking $12 range for a 30 lb flour-bag sized amount. (?)
I'm thinking you put it on while the roof is very hot, and maybe use a roller (the kind you use on lawns) to imbed it into the hot tar.
Maybe put a screen over your rain drains to filter it out if any washes off.
Whatever you collect, just toss back up on the roof.
It's light (weight), it's white, and it's cheap.
I had lunch with a buddy today, and described what I'd told ya.
He said roofing supply stores have very small white rock material maybe 1/16 or 1/8th diameter.
It's some sort of light, hollow, rock material, maybe volcanic.
Not sure of the composition.
But it's very cheap, and it's -white-
He was talking $12 range for a 30 lb flour-bag sized amount. (?)
I'm thinking you put it on while the roof is very hot, and maybe use a roller (the kind you use on lawns) to imbed it into the hot tar.
Maybe put a screen over your rain drains to filter it out if any washes off.
Whatever you collect, just toss back up on the roof.
It's light (weight), it's white, and it's cheap.
It cooled off again a little here last night and this morning and the high was only 87, so I went up on the roof early and made an adjustment to the wave-guide, and set it back to the proper F/D ratio by the book and put on a new servo motor. The old one was making some noise, and I thought I might as well change it now.
I am going to put a couple of washers under the support arms tomorrow morning. (supposed to be 65 F here)
Went back inside to set the skew on a couple of birds, and all of a sudden I lost signal on both C and Ku. I couldn't figure out what happened for a little bit. Pushed the buttons to go to G1 (G15) for a possible Master Reset. Seemed like the motor was working, but when it got there still no signal. Went outside and looked and the dish had gone all the way over to the west side.
The actuator that I had on there was a Von Weise that I got with a dish last fall. When I got it, I took it apart, and it was pretty rusty, so I cleaned it all up, and lubed it good before I put it up. I noticed some small rust/sawdust like flakes in the housing when I cleaned it up but didn't think anything much about it. It has worked fine for about a month now.
When I pulled it apart today, the housing was full of the little flakes, and the fiber piece that is moved by the worm gear was disintegrated. I guess when it was last used without lubrication, the fiber piece had started to deteriorate, and even though I wired brushed all the rust off the worm gear, and lubed everything good, the damage was already done.
We had a big storm go through here Sunday night late with 60 mph gusts, and I noticed Monday morning some of the sats were off, but thought it might have moved on the mast. I checked it then, but the chisel marks were still lined up. I guess the wind pressure was just too much for it.
Anyway, I have 3 or 4 actuators here, so I grabbed an 18" heavy duty Von Weise which I actually got with the SAMI dish, took it apart, and re-lubed it. It was like new and had been taken care of by the previous owner.
Put it on, and did a MR because too much difference between an 18" and the old 24", and got most of the sats reprogrammed in.
It is up there now working like a charm. Everything else on the old actuator is still good. I'll keep it. Might need the motor some day, or I might find another one with the motor bad, and the fiber piece/arm still good.
I am glad that we are finally starting to have some cooler days.
Fred
I am going to put a couple of washers under the support arms tomorrow morning. (supposed to be 65 F here)
Went back inside to set the skew on a couple of birds, and all of a sudden I lost signal on both C and Ku. I couldn't figure out what happened for a little bit. Pushed the buttons to go to G1 (G15) for a possible Master Reset. Seemed like the motor was working, but when it got there still no signal. Went outside and looked and the dish had gone all the way over to the west side.
The actuator that I had on there was a Von Weise that I got with a dish last fall. When I got it, I took it apart, and it was pretty rusty, so I cleaned it all up, and lubed it good before I put it up. I noticed some small rust/sawdust like flakes in the housing when I cleaned it up but didn't think anything much about it. It has worked fine for about a month now.
When I pulled it apart today, the housing was full of the little flakes, and the fiber piece that is moved by the worm gear was disintegrated. I guess when it was last used without lubrication, the fiber piece had started to deteriorate, and even though I wired brushed all the rust off the worm gear, and lubed everything good, the damage was already done.
We had a big storm go through here Sunday night late with 60 mph gusts, and I noticed Monday morning some of the sats were off, but thought it might have moved on the mast. I checked it then, but the chisel marks were still lined up. I guess the wind pressure was just too much for it.
Anyway, I have 3 or 4 actuators here, so I grabbed an 18" heavy duty Von Weise which I actually got with the SAMI dish, took it apart, and re-lubed it. It was like new and had been taken care of by the previous owner.
Put it on, and did a MR because too much difference between an 18" and the old 24", and got most of the sats reprogrammed in.
It is up there now working like a charm. Everything else on the old actuator is still good. I'll keep it. Might need the motor some day, or I might find another one with the motor bad, and the fiber piece/arm still good.
I am glad that we are finally starting to have some cooler days.
Fred
I feel for you Labgate!
When I first started with a single BUD, I had my first analog receiver slaved to my Pansat, and used the VBox II to move the dish. I had to change channels on the Pansat every time I wanted to watch something different on the analog. It got to be a pain and I hardly watched the analog after that.
When I got the Birdview dish, I suddenly had an opportunity to move the Pansat to it's own separate dish. The analog had it's own dish, and life was getting interesting.
I got the Pinnacle dish for the family and put a Pansat/VBox II on it for them. After they began seeing what I was seeing, the protests started dying down.
Then I found my first 4DTV receiver, and replaced the analog with it. I set it up with a coax for the living room to be able to watch whatever I was watching. After that, the fights began as to who was going to watch what.
So I had to find a 4th dish and another 4DTV receiver. There were no protests against my doing that except how much I was to spend.
The rest is history and doesn't even count the Ku dishes and two SG2100s I have, one of which I don't even have hooked up anymore. The Ecoda switch and fixed Ku dishes with multi LNBFs put one of my SG2100s out of business.
My wife likes it that this hobby keeps me active so she is very forgiving.
Fred
When I first started with a single BUD, I had my first analog receiver slaved to my Pansat, and used the VBox II to move the dish. I had to change channels on the Pansat every time I wanted to watch something different on the analog. It got to be a pain and I hardly watched the analog after that.
When I got the Birdview dish, I suddenly had an opportunity to move the Pansat to it's own separate dish. The analog had it's own dish, and life was getting interesting.
I got the Pinnacle dish for the family and put a Pansat/VBox II on it for them. After they began seeing what I was seeing, the protests started dying down.
Then I found my first 4DTV receiver, and replaced the analog with it. I set it up with a coax for the living room to be able to watch whatever I was watching. After that, the fights began as to who was going to watch what.
So I had to find a 4th dish and another 4DTV receiver. There were no protests against my doing that except how much I was to spend.
The rest is history and doesn't even count the Ku dishes and two SG2100s I have, one of which I don't even have hooked up anymore. The Ecoda switch and fixed Ku dishes with multi LNBFs put one of my SG2100s out of business.
My wife likes it that this hobby keeps me active so she is very forgiving.
Fred
I got on the roof this morning and put two flat fender washers between the support arms and the dish which put the 45.6" Focal length just about 1/8" inside the throat of the wave-guide.
I have everything with the F/D, Focal Length, and centering of the wave guide as good as it is going to get.
The next step will be hauling the 920 and the Pansat to the roof for the final fine tuning of Ku.
The C-Band signals are fantastic, but the Ku is just not what I think this dish is capable of producing. I may be wrong about that, but we'll see the first full day when it is going to be fairly cool. At least one day with a low of 60F and a high of 80F shouldn't be but a couple of weeks away. Then I will be done with this dish.
Fred
I have everything with the F/D, Focal Length, and centering of the wave guide as good as it is going to get.
The next step will be hauling the 920 and the Pansat to the roof for the final fine tuning of Ku.
The C-Band signals are fantastic, but the Ku is just not what I think this dish is capable of producing. I may be wrong about that, but we'll see the first full day when it is going to be fairly cool. At least one day with a low of 60F and a high of 80F shouldn't be but a couple of weeks away. Then I will be done with this dish.
Fred
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