Prodelin 1.8m is nice but quite heavy dish especially if original back-frame is used. From your pictures I can not understand the real size and weight of the H-H motor. I would say that if H-H motor is smaller than AJAK Patriot mover than Prodelin could be too much for it.I have a nice 1.8 Prodelin in storage that I would love to use with this motor.
Prodelin 1.8m is nice but quite heavy dish especially if original back-frame is used. From your pictures I can not understand the real size and weight of the H-H motor. I would say that if H-H motor is smaller than AJAK Patriot mover than Prodelin could be too much for it.
about the motor, i have been able te salvage a few actuators that had spend many years exposed to rain and humidity. the motors were seized. Typically what happened is this: (I will describe the best I can, as I don't necesarily know the proper terms)I finally have some spare time with summer over so I thought I better start restoring the H to H motors that I have in storage. I decided to begin with the oldest one which is the Parabolics East.
I sprayed everything with WD-40 and everything is coming apart ok. Unfortunately I discovered a problem which could be deal breaker. One of the gears in the gear train is missing teeth. Thankfully the worm is in excellent condition.
Does anyone know how the gears are mounted? It appears they use some sort of rivet nut. I know I can use a grinder to grind the heads off and remove the gears, but how do I put the gear train back together?
The motor is seized solid but I am not going to bother with it until I know I can obtain a new gear. There are a few shops in town that rebuild motors so I hope that won't be an issue.
Thank you for the great information. I never considered that the magnets might be broken. Hopefully the motor parts are common enough that I can obtain replacements if needed.about the motor, i have been able te salvage a few actuators that had spend many years exposed to rain and humidity. the motors were seized. Typically what happened is this: (I will describe the best I can, as I don't necesarily know the proper terms)
- the motors had fixed magnets , each forming almost a half tube, that together surround the rotor part . I think that might be called the stator.
- the rotor part was made of layered steel that supported the copper windings
- those steel layers had rusted , causing a buildup and made them touch the magnets
- in some cases that broke the magnets - game over
- in several cases, I was able to pull the rotor out of the motor without damaging the magnets, and carefully brush/sand sand that excess rust off, bringing back the narrow gap between rotor and magnets. That was enough to bring those motors back to life (other than a general cleanup and greassing where needed.
If you look at the photo, third down from the top of the original post, there is a picture of the sensor gear train. Is that what is broke or missing on your H to H? Mine is in good shape so I can measure and count the teeth if you still want to try and find a gear somewhere.I think I may still have a PE H to H in LN condition, all that was wrong with it was, I think, some of the gearing for the sensor that I couldn't get or fix.
Thanks for the reply! I am going to try your suggestion with the electrolysis rust removal. I have always wondered about that so here is my chance to give it a try. There are a couple of local suppliers of gears so I will visit them and see if they have a match or can order one in.The motor housing inner diameter and magnet thickness and dimensions would help. Magnets, I have.
The corner posts must be riveted over. Carefully center drilled would allow the gear train to come apart.
Accurate center drilling of the posts. Tapping them. Countersinking the gear plate. And countersunk hardware to put it back together.
The youtube washing soda/battery charger trik works like a peach to remove rust.
A neighborhood bead blaster cabinet would help.
The gear is another thing. I didn't see which one. If you can't find an identical one a repair may be possible.
Showing it in high res would help. Do you have the diameter and tooth count?
The trigger magnets could be weak over the years too. I see there is a resistance positional feedback also.
New neodymium magnets would help is so . A space back of the sensor may be needed. They are very strong and may extend the pulse width of the trigger output. Optical conversion look easy.