RTPi - No Signal

[Comptech]

One of these will help you out. Then you can rule out the coax,

Klein Tools Coax Explorer 2 VDV512-100 - The Home Depot

The Klein Tools Coax Explorer 2 verifies proper continuity of F-connector coaxial cables and maps their location. This tester comes with one (red) remote. The available color-coded remotes (sold separately)

www.homedepot.com

 

[a33]

One of these will help you out. Then you can rule out the coax,

Klein Tools Coax Explorer 2 VDV512-100 - The Home Depot

The Klein Tools Coax Explorer 2 verifies proper continuity of F-connector coaxial cables and maps their location. This tester comes with one (red) remote. The available color-coded remotes (sold separately)

www.homedepot.com

Ah, funny testing device!
It has 4 (red green blue black; almost identical to the quatro-LNB color-coding?) 'test remotes', I assume with different resistances, to test 4 cables without going from the one side cable ends, to the other...
Very practical, for that application!


I didn't know something like that was already on the market.
I had thought about a DIY testing device for 4 cables myself. I've come up with having a power supply and several resistances in series from +voltage towards ground, thus creating 4 intermediate voltages, which are fed into the 4 cables.
At the other end of the cables, by simply measuring the voltages, you would get the 'order' of the 4 cables.

By adding LEDs to the resistors in series, you could also notice that a cable had a shortcircuit. In that case, the voltage at that cable would drop to Zero; so when connecting to that cable, the LEDs nearer to ground would go out.

I've never needed such a testing device till now, however, so I've never constructed it..

Till now I use a DIY short-circuited F-connector, to put on one end of a (one) cable, while measuring continuity (resistance) at the other end. (And of course I measure for a short-circuit, separately.)


Greetz,
A33

Edit: When you watch the LEDs closely, everytime you connect a cable, then also just one LED (at the resistor of the lowest voltage-cable) would suffice to indicate that the lastly connected cable is shortcircuited.

Practical idea: All resistors etc could be housed in an emptied 4/1 (defective) diseqc switch housing!

 

[FTA4PA]

These coax testers/toners can be handy indeed. I bought an eight piece set and used it when running some new coax lines. Only problem is it is not a true indicator of the coax cable's actual physical condition. I have tested old coax cables that were giving me problems. In sunny weather they showed ok but when it rains a crack in the outer sheath (from age, rodents chewing on them, damage, etc) allows moisture inside and messes with the signal. In cases of old existing coax you will need to physically examine it's entire length by eye for damage, cracking, etc and replace it if defective rather than simply relying on a good reading from the tester. Still, I do agree this is a very good tool if you keep in mind it's limitations.

 

[dstone2022]

I unplugged the Amiko receiver and also reset it to default, but the satellite signal strength is always zero.

I had ordered a new receiver from Amazon at the same time as the crimping kit, and I got the receiver yesterday.
I bought the cheapest one in case it gets fried.

Amazon product ASIN B0817ZN2MLView: https://www.amazon.ca/Satellite-Receiver-Decoder-Supports-PowerVu/dp/B0817ZN2ML


I installed the Koqit receiver yesterday, and as soon as I went into the antenna installation, I could see that the satellite signal strength was always at about 90%. I did a super satellite scan, it found a bunch of channels, including RTPi, but the video of all the channels had total artifacting, the audio was ok. I deleted all the channels and did every possible type of scan, but all the channels still had total video artifacting and the RTPi channel was never found again. I did a factory reset and tried again, but with the same results, total video artifacting on all channels and RTPi can't be found.

I left it for a few hours, and when I went to try it again, the satellite signal strength was at zero. I unplugged and replugged it, but it was still at zero. I reset it to factory default and the signal strength was back at 90%. I did a few more blind, TP, and satellite scans, but with the same results as above.

I'm sure the brass connector I crimped has a good connection, so the problem is either the cable or the LNB.
At this point, I guess I'll have to call a satellite tech. to repair it. How much do a new LNB and 50-ft of RG6 cable cost? Would it be worth it to get a new 3-ft dish system to replace the 7-ft dish?

A new 3-ft FTA system costs about $300 plus installation.

SatPro.tv

Satpro.tv is your one stop shop for all your Satellite, Cable and Marine product needs. We offer a full line of Satellite Meters, Cable Signal Meters and Testers. Satellite LNB, Multiswitches, Cable Tools, Coax Cable and Connectors, Satellite Dish Heaters and satellite Dishes. SatPro's Marine...

www.satpro.tv

Thanks.

 

[FTA4PA]

I unplugged the Amiko receiver and also reset it to default, but the satellite signal strength is always zero.

I had ordered a new receiver from Amazon at the same time as the crimping kit, and I got the receiver yesterday.
I bought the cheapest one in case it gets fried.

Amazon product ASIN B0817ZN2MLView: https://www.amazon.ca/Satellite-Receiver-Decoder-Supports-PowerVu/dp/B0817ZN2ML


I installed the Koqit receiver yesterday, and as soon as I went into the antenna installation, I could see that the satellite signal strength was always at about 90%. I did a super satellite scan, it found a bunch of channels, including RTPi, but the video of all the channels had total artifacting, the audio was ok. I deleted all the channels and did every possible type of scan, but all the channels still had total video artifacting and the RTPi channel was never found again. I did a factory reset and tried again, but with the same results, total video artifacting on all channels and RTPi can't be found.

I left it for a few hours, and when I went to try it again, the satellite signal strength was at zero. I unplugged and replugged it, but it was still at zero. I reset it to factory default and the signal strength was back at 90%. I did a few more blind, TP, and satellite scans, but with the same results as above.

I'm sure the brass connector I crimped has a good connection, so the problem is either the cable or the LNB.
At this point, I guess I'll have to call a satellite tech. to repair it. How much do a new LNB and 50-ft of RG6 cable cost? Would it be worth it to get a new 3-ft dish system to replace the 7-ft dish?

A new 3-ft FTA system costs about $300 plus installation.

SatPro.tv

Satpro.tv is your one stop shop for all your Satellite, Cable and Marine product needs. We offer a full line of Satellite Meters, Cable Signal Meters and Testers. Satellite LNB, Multiswitches, Cable Tools, Coax Cable and Connectors, Satellite Dish Heaters and satellite Dishes. SatPro's Marine...

www.satpro.tv

Thanks.

I am still thinking that the dish needs aligned and/or the coax should be replaced after more than 25 years of use. The cheap receivers have a lower signal threshold than the Amiko so it is possible you will see the signal bounce in and out if the dish is almost on a satellite but not dead on.

If you are able to do the work yourself you could pick up some new RG6 coax at Home Depot for under $30 for 100 feet and install the compression connectors on it. It is dual shield and copper clad steel for the center conductor though. Dual shield is fine for most situations. I use it myself for all my dishes. I bought two 1000ft spools of Perfect Vision brand on eBay. Stuff I use is solid copper for the center conductor though so you can get better than the Home Depot stuff if you really want to. Just giving you a starting point.

Southwire 100 ft. 18 RG6 Dual Shield CU CATV CM/CL2 Coaxial Cable in Black 56918243 - The Home Depot

www.homedepot.com

As far as the lnbf, not sure what you currently have but you can get a new C138 lnbf from Titanium with 5G interference filtering for about $70. Use the code SATGUYS SAVE and you can get another 15% off.

https://www.titaniumsatellite.com/products.php#!/C138-LNBF-Single-Output-3-8-4-2GHz-5G-Red-Band-Pass-Filter/p/412492561/category=6743545

Do not buy a 3 foot dish. The signals you are trying to get are on c band and the 3 foot dish simply won't do. Even the seven footer you are currently using is considered small for c band these days. Keep the seven and tune it up if needed.

 

[dstone2022]

I'll probably call someone to fix it.
Is it possible to move the dish using the new Koqit receiver I have?
I was thinking of moving the dish to Galaxy 19 at 97W to get RTPi.
Does the Galaxy 19 use C-band or Ku-band? If it uses the Ku band, will the signal be clearer?
Would the 7-foot dish I have be able to receive a Ku-band signal?

Thanks.

 

[FTA4PA]

I'll probably call someone to fix it.
Is it possible to move the dish using the new Koqit receiver I have?
I was thinking of moving the dish to Galaxy 19 at 97W to get RTPi.
Does the Galaxy 19 use C-band or Ku-band? If it uses the Ku band, will the signal be clearer?
Would the 7-foot dish I have be able to receive a Ku-band signal?

Thanks.

I am unfamiliar with the capabilities of the Koqit brand of receivers. What were you using to move the dish before?

What lnb do you have on the dish now? Is it just c band or is it both ku and c band? If it is both then you could position the dish at 97w and get the ku channels there. I just checked and there is a channel with the logo RTP at 12152 H 20000. I don't speak the language so can't say for sure it is what you are looking for but it is definitely there. If your lnb is just c band then no that won't work unless you swap in a ku band lnbf.

 

[dstone2022]

The tech came by and tried to fix it, but he said the LNB needed to be changed. He effortlessly installed a compression connector on the coax cable. It made no difference, but the cable seems to be OK. He said the part in the LNB that changes from vertical to horizontal is malfunctioning. His supplier is on vacation for a few weeks, so he can only get it in about a month. He said I could order it myself and he'd come back to install it.

These are the two choices he showed me:

A Digiwave for $65.
Amazon product ASIN B00QNA17YEView: https://www.amazon.ca/Digiwave-Band-Single-LNBF-DGLCBAND/dp/B00QNA17YE/ref=sr_1_4


Or the Titanium for $177
Amazon product ASIN B09PTCXLCWView: https://www.amazon.ca/Titanium-Satellite-C238-5g-Interference-3800-4200MHz/dp/B09PTCXLCW/ref=sr_1_1


Is the Digiwave acceptable or should I get the Titanium LNB? The Titanium has dual output for the C and Ku bands.

Thanks.

 

[dstone2022]

https://www.titaniumsatellite.com/products.php#!/C138-LNBF-Single-Output-3-8-4-2GHz-5G-Red-Band-Pass-Filter/p/412492561/category=6743545

Actually, I'll probably order this one that FTAPA recommended. Is it the same as the ones above?

Thanks.

 

[FTA4PA]

Actually, I'll probably order this one that FTAPA recommended. Is it the same as the ones above?

Thanks.

Yes, the ones I linked to are directly from Titanium's site. If your original lnb had a single c band output order the C138, if it had two then order the C238. Don't forget to apply the code SATGUYS SAVE for an extra 15% off.

P.S. If the tech is SURE it is just the servo skew motor that failed they can be purchased here:

https://hypermegasat.com/all-products/ols/products/universal-servo-motor-polarizer-for-bud-lnb-skew-control

 

[FTA4PA]

The tech came by and tried to fix it, but he said the LNB needed to be changed. He effortlessly installed a compression connector on the coax cable. It made no difference, but the cable seems to be OK. He said the part in the LNB that changes from vertical to horizontal is malfunctioning. His supplier is on vacation for a few weeks, so he can only get it in about a month. He said I could order it myself and he'd come back to install it.

These are the two choices he showed me:

A Digiwave for $65.
Amazon product ASIN B00QNA17YEView: https://www.amazon.ca/Digiwave-Band-Single-LNBF-DGLCBAND/dp/B00QNA17YE/ref=sr_1_4


Or the Titanium for $177
Amazon product ASIN B09PTCXLCWView: https://www.amazon.ca/Titanium-Satellite-C238-5g-Interference-3800-4200MHz/dp/B09PTCXLCW/ref=sr_1_1


Is the Digiwave acceptable or should I get the Titanium LNB? The Titanium has dual output for the C and Ku bands.

Thanks.

The Titanium does not have dual outputs for c and ku. It is two c band outputs. It is used to feed two receivers at a time or with a multiswitch to separate the horizontal and vertical polarities so that you can run multiple receivers.

 

[Titanium]

I would check out ordering on Amazon.com with international shipping FBA (Fulfilled By Amazon) or on Ebay.com with GSP (Ebay's Global Shipping Program). The Canadian Dollar is at .76 against the USD. You should easily beat the prices listed on the .ca sites. If ordered from the Titanium Satellite website, we ship via USPS to Canada, so Canadian customers typically have no brokerage fee or customs tax. The C238 model is not necessary for a single receiver system. Order the C138 if only connecting one satellite receiver.

The Amazon links you shared are from brokers who buy on Amazon.com and then offer for sale on Amazon.ca.

Amazon product ASIN B09PTCXLCWView: https://www.amazon.com/Titanium-Satellite-C238-5g-Interference-3800-4200MHz/dp/B09PTCXLCW

C-Band C238 Performance Plus Satellite LNBF 3.8-4.2 GHz 5G N78 N77 RED Filter | eBay

Important Notice: This LNBF is designed to attenuate signals that are outside the target 3.8 - 4.2GHz C-band downlink frequency range and overloading the LNB and corrupting the signal IF conversion. The C238 LNBF will not attenuate interference that is occurring within the 3.8 - 4.2GHz frequency...

www.ebay.com

 

[Titanium]

Also, if you are changing the current servo controlled feedhorn/LNB to a LNBF, be sure to connect the coax directly from the LNBF to the satellite receiver. Do not pass the coax through the dish positioner.

If your technician said that the only problem with the system is a bad servo, remove the servo and manually rotate the probe to optimize the Vertical polarity for RTPI Signal Quality reading. Cut the servo wires at the splices and cover the ends with electrical tape. Cover the servo opening on the back of the feedhorn with tape or remove the servo adapter cog and reinstall the electrically disconnected servo to cover the opening.

If RTPI is the only channel that is watched on this system, who cares about changing polarity? As Ron Popeil famously stated, 'Set it and Forget it"!

 

[wagonman76]

I usually get about 3 years out of a servo motor. I get a few when I see a deal and keep them on hand.

 

[dstone2022]

The LNB is the original that came with the dish 25+ years ago.
The only thing on the dish that needed to be changed was the servo motor to move the dish.
The original setup was analog, and the coax passed through the dish positioner.
When RTPi switched to digital about 10–15 years ago, the coax was connected directly to the new Pansat receiver.
Every few years, RTPi changes their frequency, and sometimes they change the polarity.

I'll probably order the new LNB in case there are other problems with the defective LNB.

Thanks for all the replies. I'll update again soon.

 

[dstone2022]

The new LNB was installed this morning, and RTPi is working well. It took about an hour to take off the old LNB and about 30 minutes to install the new LNB. The old LNB was made of a metal alloy and was covered with white corrosion and rust. Inside the black plastic dome were four small wasp nests. One still had a live wasp in it. The dome didn't fit with the new LNB ring, so the tech didn't put it back. He said it wasn't really necessary. So he covered the LNB with a large ziplock bag with some tie-wraps. Here the temperature sometimes is -40C or -40F in the winter and +40C or +105F in the summer. Would it be better to insulate the LNB with something more, or is the LNB rated for those temperatures?

RTPi is streamed on the internet for free. I had setup a temporary android box for my father to watch RTPi while he waited for the dish to be repaired.
The new LNB cost $160can and the installation cost $140can. The original installation 25+ years ago for the dish and everything cost about $2000can.

Thanks for all the help.

 

[FTA4PA]

The new LNB was installed this morning, and RTPi is working well. It took about an hour to take off the old LNB and about 30 minutes to install the new LNB. The old LNB was made of a metal alloy and was covered with white corrosion and rust. Inside the black plastic dome were four small wasp nests. One still had a live wasp in it. The dome didn't fit with the new LNB ring, so the tech didn't put it back. He said it wasn't really necessary. So he covered the LNB with a large ziplock bag with some tie-wraps. Here the temperature sometimes is -40C or -40F in the winter and +40C or +105F in the summer. Would it be better to insulate the LNB with something more, or is the LNB rated for those temperatures?

RTPi is streamed on the internet for free. I had setup a temporary android box for my father to watch RTPi while he waited for the dish to be repaired.
The new LNB cost $160can and the installation cost $140can. The original installation 25+ years ago for the dish and everything cost about $2000can.

Thanks for all the help.

Glad you got it working. Never used covers on any lnbfs here and had no problems so you shouldn't either as long as the connections were sealed properly.