Elway.
I'd be interested in the fl. In 2D compared to 3D. Wonder if the drop is at least half of brightness for 3D?
I'd be interested in the fl. In 2D compared to 3D. Wonder if the drop is at least half of brightness for 3D?
Samsung PN64D7000
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I goofed, I was having so much much in dealing with the meter and the glasses (NOT!) I forgot to note it. I am gonna do one more touchup of 2D this weekend (learning Chroma Pure and the 10pt White Balance), so if I can Ill take a measurement. I can say this, during Tahiti last night in 3D, it was very bright to me.
Final charts, went a lot more smooth this time now that Im used to ChromaPure and the 10pt WB. Color chart is not quite where Id like it, when I touch it up I think Ill adjust the points by eye (moving them to target) as opposed to going by the ChromaPure recommendation.
Pre Grayscale (Warm 2)
Post Grayscale
Pre Gamma (-1)
Post Gamma
Pre Color
Post Color
Still very happy with the set, it's filter works well and the blacks are very good. I thought they were better than my S2, which measure 0.0095 fL, and it was proven when this model recently was measured at 0.0068. The New VT30 is around 0.0045, so Samsung isn't far off and costs about $1000 less
Pre Grayscale (Warm 2)
Post Grayscale
Pre Gamma (-1)
Post Gamma
Pre Color
Post Color
Still very happy with the set, it's filter works well and the blacks are very good. I thought they were better than my S2, which measure 0.0095 fL, and it was proven when this model recently was measured at 0.0068. The New VT30 is around 0.0045, so Samsung isn't far off and costs about $1000 less
Set looks gorgeous, I can't praise it enough right now, deep blacks, good 3D, and just great overall PQ on HD.
Still loving the set, just touched up 2D and 3D modes tonight.
Here are some 3D charts I never posted:
Here are some 3D charts I never posted:
Been having problems with the ABL on this set, using the grayscale windows on AVS709. They are evidently too large for many plasmas, and the smaller sizes that come on reference signal generators work better. What happens is I overadjust for gamma 80-100, because of ABL kicking in. I got a good deal on an Accupel 4000, and recalibrated with it last week. Real happy with the results, and still loving this display. I ended up leaving cinema smooth off, because in certain scenes it's easy enough to detect the MLL rise. After CNet's review of the D8000, I'd say the D7000 is one of the best bang for buck purchases this year, and it's only second in PQ overall to the VT30 which is a lot more expensive.
Gamma
Color
Grayscale
I'd highly recommend this display to anyone, and this is from a Panny convert and someone who changes tv's a lot
. Finally found one I can settle on.
Gamma
Color
Grayscale
I'd highly recommend this display to anyone, and this is from a Panny convert and someone who changes tv's a lot
. Finally found one I can settle on.
Well, after 4 months of ownership I can say Im very satisfied with this display. Low buzz, IR is never an issue, PQ is excellent, definitely a great value in a 64" display, and has made me a Samsung plasma customer for the foreseeable future.
Planning on a 90 day calibration touchup next week.
Planning on a 90 day calibration touchup next week.
Just finished up with the D3 Pro calibration, really like the meter.
Gamma - 2.22 avg
Grayscale - dE of 0.7/6541k
Gamut
MLL (0.029 in cd/m2, which equals 0.008fL) was very consistent as you can see, and set has 1160 hours on it. All 7 measurements below were taken at video black on DVE. There was one report of this set potentially having rising blacks, but at 1160 they are still as good as day one.
I ended up with 80 contrast, for 30.5fL. 10pt gamma worked fine, what I found is 100-50 required adjustments to be made by one step lower in the menu (adjust for 100 in the 90 menu area), 40 was not adjustable, then 10-30 were adjusted in their same corresponding menu areas. Odd.
Another interesting thing about this set. When you go in and set Contrast/Brightness, then do white balance and 10pt/gamma, you could find Brightness now needs another few ticks one way or another to be correct again. Then, you have to go back and make some low end grayscale adjustments, at least on mine. After the double take, Brightness seems to be fine, just now when you initially set it, 10pt is probably going to make it incorrect.
Gamma - 2.22 avg
Grayscale - dE of 0.7/6541k
Gamut
MLL (0.029 in cd/m2, which equals 0.008fL) was very consistent as you can see, and set has 1160 hours on it. All 7 measurements below were taken at video black on DVE. There was one report of this set potentially having rising blacks, but at 1160 they are still as good as day one.
I ended up with 80 contrast, for 30.5fL. 10pt gamma worked fine, what I found is 100-50 required adjustments to be made by one step lower in the menu (adjust for 100 in the 90 menu area), 40 was not adjustable, then 10-30 were adjusted in their same corresponding menu areas. Odd.
Another interesting thing about this set. When you go in and set Contrast/Brightness, then do white balance and 10pt/gamma, you could find Brightness now needs another few ticks one way or another to be correct again. Then, you have to go back and make some low end grayscale adjustments, at least on mine. After the double take, Brightness seems to be fine, just now when you initially set it, 10pt is probably going to make it incorrect.
Wall mounted the Samsung tonight, added an APC surge protector, and moved my center channel out of the cubby hole (where the APC is now) to get it sounding better. Also brought my fronts closer together, all ready for football this weekend. New HSU sub too. Mount is a Sanus VMAA26B
Thanks man! It looks better now with the plasma off the stand. I've also not been as happy with my center channel since I got this stand early in the year. With it having the side firing planar woofers, it was not so good having it in a tight cubby hole.
First wall mount for me, and it makes me a little nervous every time I swing that thing out
First wall mount for me, and it makes me a little nervous every time I swing that thing out
Not sure what your wall is made off and how the mount is fastened.
But on normal studded walls the TV mounts (especially articulating ones)
are screwed to a particle board that is screwed - and glued! - to the wall.
Diogen.
It's studs. The back bracket has 4 3" lag bolts into the studs, I had to crank in with a socket wrench. I've seen where people have done that, but this set is only 70 lbs and I will not be articulating it out the 20 or so inches it can do. It's only a few inches, if we have guests and I need to angle it a little towards them. Our room is rectangular and one seating position is way off to the side. Rest of the time it will stay flat against the wall
callibration
I have the same TV as you which I bought in August. I have adjusted the settings several times and while I enjoy the picture I think it can be better. Is there anyway you could tell me what to adjust the picture settings at to get the best picture? Also, do you keep the same settings when watching movies, TV, daytime and nighttime?
Any help is appreciated. This TV has the best looks and picture out of anything else I have seen. The crazy thing is that I know I don't have it calibrated right and to think it will get better is great. Thank you!
It's studs. The back bracket has 4 3" lag bolts into the studs, I had to crank in with a socket wrench. I've seen where people have done that, but this set is only 70 lbs and I will not be articulating it out the 20 or so inches it can do. It's only a few inches, if we have guests and I need to angle it a little towards them. Our room is rectangular and one seating position is way off to the side. Rest of the time it will stay flat against the wall
I have the same TV as you which I bought in August. I have adjusted the settings several times and while I enjoy the picture I think it can be better. Is there anyway you could tell me what to adjust the picture settings at to get the best picture? Also, do you keep the same settings when watching movies, TV, daytime and nighttime?
Any help is appreciated. This TV has the best looks and picture out of anything else I have seen. The crazy thing is that I know I don't have it calibrated right and to think it will get better is great. Thank you!
No problem, it's a gorgeous set. Of course if you have a professional come in with the meter, it can be dialed in close to perfection. I calibrate my own, and I just use one mode all the time.
Some basics:
Movie mode
Contrast 90
Cell 20
Sharpness and brightness need to be set with a test disc. Sharpness around 10 and brightness around 60 is a good start though.
I'd leave color and tiny at 50
Black tone and dynamic contrast off.
Flesh tone 0
Gamma 0
Turn off the motion deal and any crap like noise reduction.
I'd recommend color temp warm 1 for a non calibrated display, and film mode should be Auto 1 when watching 1080i (no setting for 720p)
For 1080p60 it can be off. If you send it 1080p24 you can leave it off to let the set perform 2:3 pulldown, or you can turn cinema smooth on and it'll really smooth out the motion of a bluray film.
For normal HDTV like dish and TiVo, I have the boxes send 1080i to the set all the time and use pic size screen fit. It displays at 1:1 pixel mapping so there is no overscan. If you use 16x9 it overscans.
Some basics:
Movie mode
Contrast 90
Cell 20
Sharpness and brightness need to be set with a test disc. Sharpness around 10 and brightness around 60 is a good start though.
I'd leave color and tiny at 50
Black tone and dynamic contrast off.
Flesh tone 0
Gamma 0
Turn off the motion deal and any crap like noise reduction.
I'd recommend color temp warm 1 for a non calibrated display, and film mode should be Auto 1 when watching 1080i (no setting for 720p)
For 1080p60 it can be off. If you send it 1080p24 you can leave it off to let the set perform 2:3 pulldown, or you can turn cinema smooth on and it'll really smooth out the motion of a bluray film.
For normal HDTV like dish and TiVo, I have the boxes send 1080i to the set all the time and use pic size screen fit. It displays at 1:1 pixel mapping so there is no overscan. If you use 16x9 it overscans.
I'm getting a new set soon and am debating between the PN59D7000 and the Panny PVT30. The Panny is supposed to have deeper black levels, but it is more costly than the Samsung. The only thing holding me back from getting the Samsung is the screen peeling and brightness pops that i've read about. Have you had any of those problems with your set?
I do see the "pops", its more like floating blacks. Prior year panasonics had them so I was kinda broken in on them. I dont watch movies in complete darkness, they are really a moot issue for me.
Since 2009 Ive owned a 50" Panny plasma, a 55" Toshiba LED LCD, a 58" Panny plasma, a 73" Dlp, a 55" Samsung LED LCD and this 64" Plasma. By far, this plasma is the best tv Ive ever owned, reason i know this, is I quit nitpicking things and mounted it on the wall. Every set out there has issues, while the panny has better blacks and no more fluctuations, it does not produce as good of color as the Samsung, and IMO, the Samsung image is more sharp. Panny's have always had a bit of a soft/natural image to me, which is fine, but I do like how the Samsung appears sharper. In this model year, it also seems the Samsung is better at resisting IR.
I have not personally seen the VT, but I know it's a great set too, you really cant go wrong with either because they all have issues. The big thing for Panny right now is the green blob, or what Id call uniformity issues. I had a green blob on my 50", but it never showed in real viewing, so once again, I think people over-hype these issues. As far as screen peeling, it was a real issue in the summer, but it seems mostly corrected. Samsung never said much but implemented a very good in home fix, so they did a good job IMO. Most people would have you think Samsung has horrible customer service, but Ive not seen it.
Since 2009 Ive owned a 50" Panny plasma, a 55" Toshiba LED LCD, a 58" Panny plasma, a 73" Dlp, a 55" Samsung LED LCD and this 64" Plasma. By far, this plasma is the best tv Ive ever owned, reason i know this, is I quit nitpicking things and mounted it on the wall. Every set out there has issues, while the panny has better blacks and no more fluctuations, it does not produce as good of color as the Samsung, and IMO, the Samsung image is more sharp. Panny's have always had a bit of a soft/natural image to me, which is fine, but I do like how the Samsung appears sharper. In this model year, it also seems the Samsung is better at resisting IR.
I have not personally seen the VT, but I know it's a great set too, you really cant go wrong with either because they all have issues. The big thing for Panny right now is the green blob, or what Id call uniformity issues. I had a green blob on my 50", but it never showed in real viewing, so once again, I think people over-hype these issues. As far as screen peeling, it was a real issue in the summer, but it seems mostly corrected. Samsung never said much but implemented a very good in home fix, so they did a good job IMO. Most people would have you think Samsung has horrible customer service, but Ive not seen it.
I've spoken with Samsung chat, and this alleged brightness pop fix is being mailed to me on 2 usb drives, will see what the truth is to the rumor.
Touched the tv up recently and found the mll to be the same as it was in April when I bought it. Set has a good bit of hours, so I dont think the Samsung black rise FUD is anywhere near close to true. I've been using Cinema Smooth (96hz mode) more lately, it does bring the blacks up to around 0.011fL, but really smooths out 1080p/24hz movies.
New charts, I moved up from a 2.2 gamma to a 2.3, like the look. Other than bright sports during the day, we watch most of our stuff in a dim room anyhow.
dE of 0.8
Gamma
Color
Touched the tv up recently and found the mll to be the same as it was in April when I bought it. Set has a good bit of hours, so I dont think the Samsung black rise FUD is anywhere near close to true. I've been using Cinema Smooth (96hz mode) more lately, it does bring the blacks up to around 0.011fL, but really smooths out 1080p/24hz movies.
New charts, I moved up from a 2.2 gamma to a 2.3, like the look. Other than bright sports during the day, we watch most of our stuff in a dim room anyhow.
dE of 0.8
Gamma
Color
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