What's the difference between my Chapparell scaler and the one that came with the Titanium C1PLL. Physically, they're different. But are they interchangeable or do I have to use the Titanium scaler with the C1PLL?
scaler question
- Thread starter ZetaMale
- Start date
- Latest activity Latest activity:
- Replies 6
- Views 2K
I Just mounted a C2PLL today and used a chap scalar. The dish was deep .286 F/D ratio. The LNBF is tapered so was real loose in the scalar when at the right depth. The Chap scalar was more secure and pointed more true. I found using Chaparral Guides or the Titanium install resulted in the LNBF at the same place when using the flat plane of the scalar as a reference point.
No. I'm using the Chaparral scalar with my Titanium LNBF. I drilled and tapped holes for 2 additional set screws so I could aim and keep the LNBF throat pointing dead nuts at the dish center. Those tapped holes are at 120 degrees around the perimeter just like the Titanium scalar. I like that the Chaparral is beefier than the other one.
Yeah that single set screw made it difficult to center the feed in the Chapparell scaler. I went ahead and changed it out with the Titanium scaler but found that 2 of the set screws were in awkward positions or difficult to get to because of a support rod bolt. But I managed. It didn't make any difference in performance though.
I wrapped some electrical tape around the LNBF where it mated with the scalar. I t was snug and well centered. The support arms were made so I could adjust focal length when attaching the scalar.
Yup. I made shims and all of that stuff. Every time I snugged the single bolt down my signal would shift. Yaaaa!
Bit the bullet and put in 2 additional holes for set screws and headaches gone.
Your support arm adjustment provision is a great idea. I have a button hook feed. Learned a lot about over and under illumination.
Several explanations about how a scalar actually works. Some are just too technical with algebra and calculus and conflicting theories. Some people don't even use one.
The hard calculations of determining f and f/D and all of those things worked out pretty close but in the end my scalar distance and LNBF position in it was different than the math.
What did make sense though was taking a magnifying make up mirror and finding where the sun focused on a piece of paper and then gluing a stick to the mirror at that length. Then taking a big bottle cap while holding the mirror up where the focus was and moving it closer/further away until the mirror edge was just obscured.
Where the scalar was as the installer put it I could take a piece of aluminum flashing and move it in around 8 inches or so before signal would drop on my 12 footer. Now signal drops just right inside of the rim.
Similar threads
