That what I am talking about. You rock. Now I have a direction to go. You sure made me feel good when you said that. OK, I am on a mission now... Thank you so much for your help. I know enough to at least stay out of trouble, and know not to go too far without adult supervision. Lol!!! T
That is correct that it will lose memory in the unit if the power is disconnected, and it is designed to do that. It is suppose to go into standby with it plugged in, and turned off, but turned off and unplugged will kill the memory after about 5 minutes or something like that. When you turn the unit off, does a little LED stay on? T
I don't think I have one, but I'll look. I have some LED's tho. I wish I knew more about all this stuff. This is frustrating. I didn't plan on my dish mover going out on me so soon in this process. I had just got everything set, and then this. Trying to get the Titanium ASC1 through my financial adviser would be a chore right now, and I can't say as I blame her. If I could order a new board for it, I would, but they are probably not something that you can get. I fixed my Flat screen TV by buying a new control board that had a problem, but I wouldn't know who to contact. I need to see where to get these relays to start with. I got the relay to seat down on the board now, and have been looking for any solder connections that might be touching on the bottom of the board. I did see one solder connection on back that I thought might be digging into one of the traces on the west side relay, but apparently it wasn't since it still wasn't working after I cleaned it up a little bit. I would be willing to buy one of the boards from the pile of them someone said they have accumulated. I just don't know that much about electronics. I just have a basic understanding of components, and theory, but I'm just not that knowledgeable about what to test, and how to test it. Because I know that some components can not be tested in circuit, because I'm getting continuity both directions on "DZ2" Zenor diode, and I thought voltage only travels one way in a diode, but there again, what do I know? T
When testing a part such as this in circuit, you may get a reading both ways. Only way to check for sure is to remove it. My guess is that relay. If it comes down to it, I have one of those relays I could send you.
Yeah, I think it's supposed to hold the memory in standby, but why the unit would not hold memory might be an IC issue maybe. I sure wish I would known about these forums before I started all this. I would have been alot better off. I learned now not to read reviews from the place you are buying a product, and to read other reviews from other sources first. This VBox was supposed to be the "Heavy Duty" unit also. OK, what was supposed to be heavy duty. Apparently not the relays.LOL T
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Well, I was wondering if I had some somewhere in my things, but I'm not sure what the value is, so let me look, and if I can't find one, then maybe I could send you a gift card in trade. I'm just not that versed in this stuff. +-------------------------------------------------------------
Yeah, I heated up the solder joints and lowered the relay onto the board, but did not remove the relay first. I wonder if I should just go ahead and remove it now since it didn't fix it, and it doesn't seem to work anyway. Could my Actuator have caused the problem, or is it a matter of crappy components. Hopefully not both! T
Probably, as everyone is saying the latter built units are getting worse and worse. If I can't keep this working if I even get it fixed, I'll just have to hold off on all of this until I can afford to do something else. Maybe I'll just have to take off the actuator, and just mount a hand crank to it, and count the turns from Point A to Point B... LOL The next thing I'll probably have to do is to climb a telephone pole to use the phone LOL When I brought the Actuator in the other night to troubleshoot the problem, I couldn't find anything wrong with it, since it worked ok when connected to the mover, it just wouldn't work in the opposite direction unless there was voltage going to it. IE Reverse M1/M2. Theres just no voltage coming from the west side relay. It's clicking, but no voltage. Does that tell me something that it is clicking like the other relay, it's just that there is no 37vdc coming out. Could the big Diode be bad on the front of it like some mentioned. I had forgot to tell them it was clicking still, it just seemed to get warmer when cycled. But after I seated it down, it appeared to not really show a tendancy to warm up like before, but it never did really get that much warmer, just a bit more than the other. It's hard to explain, since pointing a lazor temp. gun at a component isn't the best way of testing. I just tried it as an initial test of anything that might just stand out before going into a more extensive testing such as desoldering and testing values. That starts getting into my level of competancy. LOL T
Thats right, you are correct. That is how I cleared my memory in this unit to see if maybe my limits were messed up, but after all that, my voltage test to the unit pretty much explained that problem, but yes, thats how it said to do it. I get too many specs in my head, and need to look before I speek. I should do more learning than teaching. I'm not really sure of anything at this point...TAgree with Lone Gunman. I purchased my Vbox7 back in 2013. I unplug mine whenever there are storms, at least for several hours and sometimes overnight, and have never lost the memory. In fact, the manual lists a procedure to clear memory (unplug, hold power button down, plug in, wait for unit to count from 10 to 1 and memory is cleared). Could be the newer ones are made cheaper (hence the high fail rate). If so, I hope my 'old' one keeps chugging along. (Oops, I went a jinxed myself
OK Lets see here.
Well, should I start with just replacing this relay to start with, and go from there? Would it be possible to use a more beefy relay for the 36vdc needed? Or just replace the same value and chock it up to just a bad relay. These are SUPERJACK brand, but I would gladly pay for a couple high quality relays, or whatever else to make this unit more reliable! They are marked for 24v, but op. voltage is 36. Thanks!!! T
I still need to get the relay off, so I'll check that as soon as I do. Thank You so much for your help! I need to work on my honeydo list, and I'll be back to get after this. I'm so happy to have friends to steer you in the right directions, cause I'm real bad about asking questions, and you either get someone that has no idea what you are talking about, much less caring... You folks rock! T
It seems that most of this FTA satellite equipment is pure junk,I've had my share of it,right out of the box.My latest problem is a new geo sat pro receiver.I have two in service that work fine,the third one I just got seems to have a weak reciver in it.Unfortunately buying a product that cost more doesn't seem to be the cure either.It's a shame because this is a fun hobby,it's always the same old stuff,return it,it needs new firm ware,or another excuse is,it's something in your system causing the problem.Bla,bla,blaWe all wish there would be quality products,and some of us are not afraid to pay for quality products,there are just not much available on the market today.We now live in a throw away world,get your trash can out,most of the stuff you buy in this hobby will be in your trash can,sooner than later.Good luck
Would you be willing to make me a deal just for replacement parts.LOLExactly, this is why I stopped selling them, and then my source DMSI, stopped carrying them period. Was getting a return on every other one.
Got a small pile of those things.
