6 foot dish install

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I wanted to put a thank you in somewhere to Robby at WSI. just like trying to find sats aren't perfect, even products sometimes might not come perfect from the manufacturer. In comes Robby. my 1 lnb arm wasnt manufactured in the same way the others were. Robby got a new one to me right away. Immediate response and fix. He has helped me with questions and also product support before. He has been there before, during, and after the sale. I am overly impressed with the professionalism and commitment to stand behind his products. Thank you Robby and your staff for another job well done:)
 
I've spent the morning switching my setup over to running both the 1M motorized Ku dish, and the 6 foot WSI Bargain-BUD off of the Solomend 800 PCR, using a 22khz switch to select Ku or C-band. It works well so far. The Solomend Diseqc 1.2 dialogue allows me to assign the Postion numbers myself, and I've had no problem selecting the appropriate numbers stored in the Gbox, and going to that position.
Just another variation on a theme.
:)
 
Bad Luck

Ok here goes again, used the flat ring supplied with the LNB as told. Then more problems arose after several hours of trying to get the three arms for the LNB to work and after trying all 6 slots between the panels mind you 13' off the ground on a ladder I realized only two of the arms are similar. Two bolt to the ring no problem but one is 45 degree off from the other two in design. I tried placing the third one in a vise and twisting the one bolt hole side to match the other two arms but I guess that has now shortened it. ANY IDEAS anyone????:mad:
 
Ok here goes again, used the flat ring supplied with the LNB as told. Then more problems arose after several hours of trying to get the three arms for the LNB to work and after trying all 6 slots between the panels mind you 13' off the ground on a ladder I realized only two of the arms are similar. Two bolt to the ring no problem but one is 45 degree off from the other two in design. I tried placing the third one in a vise and twisting the one bolt hole side to match the other two arms but I guess that has now shortened it. ANY IDEAS anyone????:mad:

My support arms were also a little off and required them to be a little bent to line up appropriately with the scaler ring. If one of your support arms is truly a different length than the other two, its defective and you should contact Robby.
 
I wanted to put a thank you in somewhere to Robby at WSI

We get requests from companies almost every day looking to be sponsors here... And 99.5% of them we turn down. We only accept QUALITY sponsors here that stand by their products and offer quality support. WSI is one of those companies and Robby is one of those guys who takes pride in all he does.

We are proud to have him here and highly recommend him and his companies!!
 
Powering Actuator

I was finally able to get the out of aligned arm fixed for mounting my LNBF though it did take some good wacks with a hammer. I was wondering if I needed to buy a GBOX or a friend of mine gave me a General Instrument Videocipher II plus 2400R receiver with a GI 2000PS antenna positioner. Both still in the boxes they came in. I have two Pansat 2700A receivers but I understand the voltage is somewhere between 15/18 volts which, is too low to power the actuator provided by WSI. Can someone shed some light on this for me please.

Rod
 
The WSI actuator requires a 36V nominal power source and a controller such as the antenna positioner you spoke of. It uses a four wire hookup, two for the sensor and two for the motor.To control this with your reciever you need something that understands DiSEqC Such as the GBox. WSI has a version called the VBox.
 
The power terminals on the Pansat 2700 are for controlling polarity via a servo polarotor. Unfortunately, these receivers cannot power an actuator.
 
I need help with knowing some info about how General instrument 2400r satellite receiver and the antenna positioner 2000ps work together, what each one does and how to use them
 
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Please disregard the last post by me and thanks to all for the help....PS my son 11 yo sent the last post after I asked him today while at work to google and see if he found any information on the above equipment.....lol....I have to give him credit for resourcefulness.
 
scaler ring mounting?

There are lots of holes on my scaler ring which creates lots of possibilites but just wondering if people are using both the inner and out (simultanteously) for attaching their support arms? Thats currently how mine is mounted, 6 screws attach the ring to the support arms, but I just happen to see a picture of one mounted only using the outer ring, which slighty pushes the scaler back from the dish. I haven't had time to experiment with the different positition for the scaler ring but just curious how everyone has theirs attached.
 
Brent or anyone else have you figured out how to stop the actuator from overshooting the sat your moving to? mine normally has to be moved a couple times when i go to each sat. the stronger tps are normally fine but sometimes they even get passed. it's really not a big deal but if there is a fix then i wouldnt have to keep going into settings and re-saving to view each sat.
 
Mine is better, but not perfect. I just haven't been able to get all the "slop" out of the system. Go out to the dish and move it sideways by hand, and you'll see what I mean. Unless you can conquer that, there'll always be the niggling problem. My problem is at the azimuth pivot point primarily, and I probably won't address it until spring.
:)
 
Wouldn't actuator control problems like that be rooted in the controllor? VBox or GBox? Or is it totally a problem with quality of workmanship/design on the mount? I have never operated a BUD before. I'm getting ready to set one up and find this thread quite informative about the little pitfalls ythat happen to folks setting this 6' dish up. I built my own mount powered by an SG2100 and intend to use USALS on my C-Band dish. I hope I don't have those "niggling problems" with this setup. But if I do I may not abondon my project so easily if all I have to look forward to with an actuator is stuff like you guys are talking about. Kinda reminds me of the days when TV remotes first came out. Sure you could change the channel from the couch but you still had to get up and adjust the rabbit ears lol.
 
I think this is a quality issue, on the mount. Complaining about it, though, is silly considering that we knew these were "cheaply made" dishes starting out. They were also a bargain. There's nothing wrong with my setup that I can't live with, and I have hopes of finding a workable improvement that I'm competent to make.
:)
 
I replaced the pivot bolt with a 1/2 inch threaded rod cut to length. I also added
some large flat washers and some white lithium grease. Replaced the two spacers
for the actuator with a one inch spacer from the hardware along with a slightly
longer bolt. Mine has no slop now. If I push on one side of the dish, there is no
play at all. I still notice with the Gbox, if I move from the west to east to my
recorded numbers it is more accurate than going east to west. I'm very happy
for the money spent.
 

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I replaced the pivot bolt with a 1/2 inch threaded rod cut to length. I also added
some large flat washers and some white lithium grease. Replaced the two spacers
for the actuator with a one inch spacer from the hardware along with a slightly
longer bolt. Mine has no slop now. If I push on one side of the dish, there is no
play at all. I still notice with the Gbox, if I move from the west to east to my
recorded numbers it is more accurate than going east to west. I'm very happy
for the money spent.

Whats that covering your LNB? Looks like a jar of some sort to protect the LNB +connectors from the elements! Good Idea!!
 
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