C-Band and Linear KU LNB Motorised

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Babadem

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May 21, 2007
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I'm in the process of setting up my 1.2M Dish with a DG380 Motor, so as to obtain maximum signals from both C-Band and KU Band across the arc. To achieve this aim, I have decided to setup Independent C-Band Lnbf, next to KU Band Lnbf. With this option, LNBs with dual outputs will give me access to 2 receivers simultaneously without slaving cable from one box to another. This brings me to ask the following questions.

1) Which LNB should be dead center and which one will be offset?

2) How far apart does the offset have to be from the center LNB, and does it matter if the offset is left or right of the center LNB?

3) Is it always advisable to cut the C-Band Scalar like this picture by QWERT1515 or can KU LNB be placed just next to the realm of the C-Band Scalar without cutting it?

4) Any other tips and pointers will be highly appreciated.

I'm sorry if this has been treated before, but my search didn't give me good results.
 
1) Which LNB should be dead center and which one will be offset?

The Ku band LNB should be at the center of the dish (the correct focal point) because its wave length and focal point is smaller than it is for C-Band.
This is why you have to be more careful when aligning a Ku band dish vs. a C-Band dish.
If you put the C-Band LNB in the center and the Ku-Band LNB on the side you will lose a lot of signal quality on the Ku-Band (A 1.2 Meter dish will seem like a 36" - 39" dish)
and you will not gain that much on the C-Band signal (The slight gain might be helpful on borderline transponders).

Band Frequency Wavelength
Middle of C-Band - 3.95 GHz - 3.00 inches
Middle of Ku-Band - 11.95 GHz - 0.99 inches

2) How far apart does the offset have to be from the center LNB, and does it matter if the offset is left or right of the center LNB?

The closer the offset LNB is to the correct focal point of the dish, The stronger the signal quality will be. Also the further away from the correct focal point the LNB is placed,
the less surface area the LNB will see, so you reduce the effective size of the dish seen by the LNB (Lower signal quality).

If the offset LNB is on the right side of the real focal point then the dish has to be pointed more west to pick up a satellite,
and if the offset LNB is on the left side of the dish then the dish will have to be pointed more east to pick up a satellite.

The reason why I decided to place the C-Band LNB on the right side is because where it is positioned it is offset by about 5.5° West
So if I want to pick up C-Band on my furthest Eastern satellite (55.5° west) I need my motor to point at 50.0° West and it can not.
The furthest I can point my dish to is 53° West. With the LNB on the right side I need to point at 61.0° West which my motor can do.

3) Is it always advisable to cut the C-Band Scalar like this picture by QWERT1515 or can KU LNB be placed just next to the realm of the C-Band Scalar without cutting it?

The reason I cut the scalar was to allow the Ku band LNB to be able to see the whole dish and have the C-Band LNB as close to the real focal point as possible.
(This gives the highest signal quality for an offset LNB).
 
I'm in the process of setting up my 1.2M Dish with a DG380 Motor, so as to obtain maximum signals from both C-Band and KU Band across the arc. To achieve this aim, I have decided to setup Independent C-Band Lnbf, next to KU Band Lnbf. With this option, LNBs with dual outputs will give me access to 2 receivers simultaneously without slaving cable from one box to another. This brings me to ask the following questions.

1) Which LNB should be dead center and which one will be offset?

2) How far apart does the offset have to be from the center LNB, and does it matter if the offset is left or right of the center LNB?

3) Is it always advisable to cut the C-Band Scalar like this picture by QWERT1515 or can KU LNB be placed just next to the realm of the C-Band Scalar without cutting it?

4) Any other tips and pointers will be highly appreciated.

I'm sorry if this has been treated before, but my search didn't give me good results.

Babadem,

I cannot address every point here with great detail, however I can provide some advice in regards to setting up a "mini'bud" for both C and Ku band signals.

Instead of using two separate LNBFs, one for C and one for Ku, how about a combo LNBF? The BSC621 series C/Ku LNBFs from DMS International?

I would tend to lean towards this LNBF for a mini-bud. I don't think you will have a great deal of satisfaction with two independant LNBFs in this case. It simply will not capture the signals well enough.

Look these up...

BSC621, BSC621-2 and BSC621-2D.

RADAR
 
Babadem,

I cannot address every point here with great detail, however I can provide some advice in regards to setting up a "mini'bud" for both C and Ku band signals.

Instead of using two separate LNBFs, one for C and one for Ku, how about a combo LNBF? The BSC621 series C/Ku LNBFs from DMS International?

I would tend to lean towards this LNBF for a mini-bud. I don't think you will have a great deal of satisfaction with two independant LNBFs in this case. It simply will not capture the signals well enough.

Look these up...

BSC621, BSC621-2 and BSC621-2D.

RADAR

RADAR, I already own the DMX741U (I'm yet to set it up), but from all my reading research, it seems you get better reception on both KU and C bands using my proposal in post #1 or am I mistaken?

Edit: When you setup your Minibud, were you able to get high Q values on both C & KU bands. Did you first get the signal on the KU first and then adjust for C-Band or the other way around?
 
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The Ku band LNB should be at the center of the dish (the correct focal point) because its wave length and focal point is smaller than it is for C-Band.
This is why you have to be more careful when aligning a Ku band dish vs. a C-Band dish.
If you put the C-Band LNB in the center and the Ku-Band LNB on the side you will lose a lot of signal quality on the Ku-Band (A 1.2 Meter dish will seem like a 36" - 39" dish)
and you will not gain that much on the C-Band signal (The slight gain might be helpful on borderline transponders).

Band Frequency Wavelength
Middle of C-Band - 3.95 GHz - 3.00 inches
Middle of Ku-Band - 11.95 GHz - 0.99 inches



The closer the offset LNB is to the correct focal point of the dish, The stronger the signal quality will be. Also the further away from the correct focal point the LNB is placed,
the less surface area the LNB will see, so you reduce the effective size of the dish seen by the LNB (Lower signal quality).

If the offset LNB is on the right side of the real focal point then the dish has to be pointed more west to pick up a satellite,
and if the offset LNB is on the left side of the dish then the dish will have to be pointed more east to pick up a satellite.

The reason why I decided to place the C-Band LNB on the right side is because where it is positioned it is offset by about 5.5° West
So if I want to pick up C-Band on my furthest Eastern satellite (55.5° west) I need my motor to point at 50.0° West and it can not.
The furthest I can point my dish to is 53° West. With the LNB on the right side I need to point at 61.0° West which my motor can do.



The reason I cut the scalar was to allow the Ku band LNB to be able to see the whole dish and have the C-Band LNB as close to the real focal point as possible.
(This gives the highest signal quality for an offset LNB).
Have you had any experience setting up any of the Combined C\Ku LNBs on a MiniBud?
 
Have you had any experience setting up any of the Combined C\Ku LNBs on a MiniBud?


From what I read, it doesn't work well because it puts the focal point of the Ku off so far as to render it useless. I went with a separate lnb for c-band and was marginally successful. Nothing that really has me watching c-band on my mini bud.
 
Have you had any experience setting up any of the Combined C\Ku LNBs on a MiniBud?

Yes, I am using the Dual Band C-band and KU-band LNBF (GEOSATpro CK1) and I have had better luck using a dedicated Ku band LNB at the correct focal point.
When I had the Dual LNB in the center I had a Ku signal with a quality of around 40% - 50% on my Pansat. Removing the same LNB from the Dual fixture and placing it at the focal point gave me a 90% quality.
 
RADAR, I already own the DMX741U (I'm yet to set it up), but from all my reading research, it seems you get better reception on both KU and C bands using my proposal in post #1 or am I mistaking?

Edit: When you setup your Minibud, were you able to get high Q values on both C & KU bands. Did you first get the signal on the KU first and then adjust for C-Band or the other way around?

I do not have my system connected for Ku/C mini-Bud right now. I am experimenting with my new AZBox, so I put my Invacom QPH-031 LNBF back on the dish for the interim.

When I had it set up for the Ku/C Mini-Bud I was using the Coolsat 5000 receiver and the BSC621-2 LNBF with a flat scalar ring.

I was able to, with some great effort, pull in most of my linear Ku and several C-Band channels simultaneously with signal levels in the mid to upper 80% quality range. This is extremely tricky on a motorized, offset 1.2 M dish. The focal distance and the positioning of the scalar ring is highly critical. This is indeed better suited for a fixed point dish, but I was able to track both Ku and C Band signals to some extent with good repeatablilty.

I started out with the dish and motor already set up and fine tuned for Ku linear satellites. Then, I removed the Invacom QPH-031 LNBF and installed the BSC621-2 LNBF and started playing. I did not reposition the dish elevation or motor adjustments here.

Allow me to backtrack on this just a moment... At first, I could not install the scalar ring on the BSC LNBF. If you take the assembly instructions of the GeoSat Pro 1.2 M dish literally - even the pictures, you may assemble the dish incorrectly.

The instructions look fairly straight forward and when completed, it seems like the logical manner to assemble it, but it won't work if you try to install a C-Band LNBF with a scalar ring on the mount. The two supporting struts extending from the perimenter of the dish need to attach to the LNBF support arm at the two holes which are about 2" or 3" from the end of the LNBF support arm.

The instructions actually show the two support struts attaching to the very end of the LNBF support arm, right with the LNBF clamp. This seems to be logical as the LNBF clamp has a square opening where it goes over the round LNBF support arm and it will "rock n roll" on the end of the support arm without the two supporting struts bolted to it. Do you envision what I mean by this? How would you keep a square tube clamped straight and steady on a round pipe?

Since I could not attach the C-Band LNBF with the scalar ring with the dish assembled in the manner that I thought was correct, I had to back-track and move the LNBF support arms down to the other bolt holes. This altered my dish elevation slightly. I re-installed the QPH-031 LNBF and fine adjusted my dish elevation to track the entire arc.

I did not find too much difference in my signal quality across the board with this change, and the LNBF mounting bracket, even though it isn't as secure as I think it should be, doesn't seem to pose a problem. Even with the mass of the QPH-031 pulling on it. This could be better remedied, but that will be another topic for discussion.

Ok, sorry for that backtracking, but I thought it was important to include. Now I can install the C-Band LNBF clamp and the LNBF and the scalar ring and I have room for everything.

Now, I used the Coolsat receiver to dial up a linear Ku band sat which also had C-Band transmissions. Walrus1957 had already compiled a channel list for the Coolsat 5K receiver which had C and Ku band sats and channels entered. This was very helpful. Once I was assured that I was aligned to the Ku band sat, I simply switched modes to the C-Band side and Wahoo! The C-Band signals were there. Weak, but present.

Then, I played with the focal distance, the positioning of the scalar ring and the polarization of the LNBF to increase both the C and Ku signals. Not too bad! The results were much better than I had expected.

Motoring to another satellite posed a bit of a problem, however. Now I found that I had to readjust things slightly to peak the signals. I found it very picky and very tricky to compensate for this across the entire arc.

This project is by no means perfect, as you may already have judged, but Walrus has been working on the nitty gritty aspects of this and arrived at some of the best solutions thus far.

Now, to the real question. What about having a dedicated C-Band and a dedicated Ku-Band LNBF installed side by side as opposed to a combination LNBF? Obviously there is a give and take here for both instances.

In a combination LNBF, like the one I have, the C and the Ku band probes are separated by 3-4 inches. I am not certain which ones are furthest back, but this may alter the focal distance and decrease the signal quality.

However, I found only marginal decreases in signal quality from the Ku-Band signals and, although I had nothing else to compare it to, I was pleasantly surprised by the C-Band reception. 80% Q on one or two channels and 66% to 69% on most. Quite acceptable in my opinion and I think I can eventually improve upon this. This will take time, a lot of time.

RADAR
 
Yes, I am using the Dual Band C-band and KU-band LNBF (GEOSATpro CK1) and I have had better luck using a dedicated Ku band LNB at the correct focal point.
When I had the Dual LNB in the center I had a Ku signal with a quality of around 40% - 50% on my Pansat. Removing the same LNB from the Dual fixture and placing it at the focal point gave me a 90% quality.

Thanks qwert1515! Did your C-band "Q" signal decrease as a result of it being offset, as compared to when it was centered? I Would appreciate it if you can post picture(s) of your setup here for a close observation and placement of the LNBs?

Edit: Since this is a motorized setup will the skew for the offset C-band be "0" too?
 
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May I suggest a conical scalar ring for C-band?
Here are some experiments that you might find helpful:

PopCornNmore does C on 1.2m ChannelMaster & C2, with brackets 'n pix!:
http://www.satelliteguys.us/free-air-fta-discussion/181803-conical-scalar-ring-test-results.html

And if you cannot or will not, then at least read this:

ACradio and flat scalar tune-up on mini-bud:
http://www.satelliteguys.us/c-band-...g-c-band-my-1-2-meter-dish-2.html#post1735458

Thanks Anole!!:up
 
I do not have my system connected for Ku/C mini-Bud right now. I am experimenting with my new AZBox, so I put my Invacom QPH-031 LNBF back on the dish for the interim.

When I had it set up for the Ku/C Mini-Bud I was using the Coolsat 5000 receiver and the BSC621-2 LNBF with a flat scalar ring.

I was able to, with some great effort, pull in most of my linear Ku and several C-Band channels simultaneously with signal levels in the mid to upper 80% quality range. This is extremely tricky on a motorized, offset 1.2 M dish. The focal distance and the positioning of the scalar ring is highly critical. This is indeed better suited for a fixed point dish, but I was able to track both Ku and C Band signals to some extent with good repeatablilty.

I started out with the dish and motor already set up and fine tuned for Ku linear satellites. Then, I removed the Invacom QPH-031 LNBF and installed the BSC621-2 LNBF and started playing. I did not reposition the dish elevation or motor adjustments here.

Allow me to backtrack on this just a moment... At first, I could not install the scalar ring on the BSC LNBF. If you take the assembly instructions of the GeoSat Pro 1.2 M dish literally - even the pictures, you may assemble the dish incorrectly.

The instructions look fairly straight forward and when completed, it seems like the logical manner to assemble it, but it won't work if you try to install a C-Band LNBF with a scalar ring on the mount. The two supporting struts extending from the perimenter of the dish need to attach to the LNBF support arm at the two holes which are about 2" or 3" from the end of the LNBF support arm.

The instructions actually show the two support struts attaching to the very end of the LNBF support arm, right with the LNBF clamp. This seems to be logical as the LNBF clamp has a square opening where it goes over the round LNBF support arm and it will "rock n roll" on the end of the support arm without the two supporting struts bolted to it. Do you envision what I mean by this? How would you keep a square tube clamped straight and steady on a round pipe?

Since I could not attach the C-Band LNBF with the scalar ring with the dish assembled in the manner that I thought was correct, I had to back-track and move the LNBF support arms down to the other bolt holes. This altered my dish elevation slightly. I re-installed the QPH-031 LNBF and fine adjusted my dish elevation to track the entire arc.

I did not find too much difference in my signal quality across the board with this change, and the LNBF mounting bracket, even though it isn't as secure as I think it should be, doesn't seem to pose a problem. Even with the mass of the QPH-031 pulling on it. This could be better remedied, but that will be another topic for discussion.

Ok, sorry for that backtracking, but I thought it was important to include. Now I can install the C-Band LNBF clamp and the LNBF and the scalar ring and I have room for everything.

Now, I used the Coolsat receiver to dial up a linear Ku band sat which also had C-Band transmissions. Walrus1957 had already compiled a channel list for the Coolsat 5K receiver which had C and Ku band sats and channels entered. This was very helpful. Once I was assured that I was aligned to the Ku band sat, I simply switched modes to the C-Band side and Wahoo! The C-Band signals were there. Weak, but present.

Then, I played with the focal distance, the positioning of the scalar ring and the polarization of the LNBF to increase both the C and Ku signals. Not too bad! The results were much better than I had expected.

Motoring to another satellite posed a bit of a problem, however. Now I found that I had to readjust things slightly to peak the signals. I found it very picky and very tricky to compensate for this across the entire arc.

This project is by no means perfect, as you may already have judged, but Walrus has been working on the nitty gritty aspects of this and arrived at some of the best solutions thus far.

Now, to the real question. What about having a dedicated C-Band and a dedicated Ku-Band LNBF installed side by side as opposed to a combination LNBF? Obviously there is a give and take here for both instances.

In a combination LNBF, like the one I have, the C and the Ku band probes are separated by 3-4 inches. I am not certain which ones are furthest back, but this may alter the focal distance and decrease the signal quality.

However, I found only marginal decreases in signal quality from the Ku-Band signals and, although I had nothing else to compare it to, I was pleasantly surprised by the C-Band reception. 80% Q on one or two channels and 66% to 69% on most. Quite acceptable in my opinion and I think I can eventually improve upon this. This will take time, a lot of time.

RADAR

Is this what the C-band holder installation should look like then?
 
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Thanks qwert1515! Did your C-band "Q" signal decrease as a result of it being offset, as compared to when it was centered? I Would appreciate it if you can post picture(s) of your setup here for a close observation and placement of the LNBs?

Edit: Since this is a motorized setup will the skew for the offset C-band be "0" too?

I lost a little bit of quality from the C-Band LNB being offset, about 5% on the Pansat meter.

The skew will be close to zero, but it will not be zero because when the dish is pointing at your true south satellite the offset LNB is pointing 5° away from your true south satellite.

EDIT - Do you still want pictures of my setup?
 
Is this what the C-band holder installation should look like then?

Babadem,

If you are referring to my posted (written) description, then yes. When I first assembled my dish using only the Ku-Band LNBF clamp, it seemed logical to install it as depicted in the assembly instructions (the sheet that came with the dish) but this obviously does not work when you add the C-Band LNBF AND the scalar ring. There just won't be enough clearance for the scalar ring with the struts installed according to the instructions.

You have the same GeoSatPro 1.2 M dish that I do, I believe. From SatelliteAV?

Before you get to actually aligning the entire dish, assemble it both ways (first with the support struts at the very end of the LNBF arm and using the Ku-Band LNBF holder) and then with the C-Band clamp with the support struts attached and bolted to the holes in the LNBF support arm a few inches closer to the dish.

I think you will be able to understand what I am referring to in this regard, when you see it first hand.

It can be easily switched as needed, but the dish elevation must be changed slightly if you do so.

Now, I did find that there was no great affect on the linear Ku band reception if I left it assembled with the support struts attached to the LNBF support arm in the mounting holes set two or so inches back from the end of the LNBF support tube or arm. I aligned my dish elevation for this assembly manner and just left it. Now I can swap the LNBFs out at will without readjusting the dish elevation.

But, as I stated, it becomes more apparent when you try it both ways first hand. Then you can see what I am referring to visually. It will make better sense to you.

RADAR
 
I lost a little bit of quality from the C-Band LNB being offset, about 5% on the Pansat meter.

The skew will be close to zero, but it will not be zero because when the dish is pointing at your true south satellite the offset LNB is pointing 5° away from your true south satellite.

EDIT - Do you still want pictures of my setup?

Yes, I would like to see the pictures, and thanks for the clarification.
 
Babadem,

If you are referring to my posted (written) description, then yes. When I first assembled my dish using only the Ku-Band LNBF clamp, it seemed logical to install it as depicted in the assembly instructions (the sheet that came with the dish) but this obviously does not work when you add the C-Band LNBF AND the scalar ring. There just won't be enough clearance for the scalar ring with the struts installed according to the instructions.

You have the same GeoSatPro 1.2 M dish that I do, I believe. From SatelliteAV?

Before you get to actually aligning the entire dish, assemble it both ways (first with the support struts at the very end of the LNBF arm and using the Ku-Band LNBF holder) and then with the C-Band clamp with the support struts attached and bolted to the holes in the LNBF support arm a few inches closer to the dish.

I think you will be able to understand what I am referring to in this regard, when you see it first hand.

It can be easily switched as needed, but the dish elevation must be changed slightly if you do so.

Now, I did find that there was no great affect on the linear Ku band reception if I left it assembled with the support struts attached to the LNBF support arm in the mounting holes set two or so inches back from the end of the LNBF support tube or arm. I aligned my dish elevation for this assembly manner and just left it. Now I can swap the LNBFs out at will without readjusting the dish elevation.

But, as I stated, it becomes more apparent when you try it both ways first hand. Then you can see what I am referring to visually. It will make better sense to you.

RADAR

Yes, I have the same GeoSatPro 1.2 M dish as you. I will take the above observations into consideration when I assemble the LNB holder. Thanks!:up
 
Yes, I would like to see the pictures, and thanks for the clarification.

I went out earlier to take a few pictures but I noticed blood on my dish :rant: (it looked like a hawk had carried its dinner over my dish) :rolleyes: So I had to wash it off and I will take the pictures for you tomorrow.
 
I went out earlier to take a few pictures but I noticed blood on my dish :rant: (it looked like a hawk had carried its dinner over my dish) :rolleyes: So I had to wash it off and I will take the pictures for you tomorrow.
:eek: I hope there was no damage to the dish. I look forward to seeing the pictures.
 
Yes, I would like to see the pictures, and thanks for the clarification.

Luckily there was no damage :)

Here are a few more pictures, if there is anything specific you want to see that the pictures don't show, let me know.
 

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Luckily there was no damage :)

Here are a few more pictures, if there is anything specific you want to see that the pictures don't show, let me know.

Thanks qwert1515! I will study those pictures intensely. :D It appears you modified the Standard Scalar ring to a semi Conical scalar. What kind of signal "Q" were you geeting before adding the modification?

Edit: What was the center LNB looking at when the picture was taken?
 
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