C-Band Dish and Ku Dish One Receiver
- Thread starter Michael Nixon
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If you are starting with ku, look for the NBC mux (4 Channnels) at 72W, 12055 V 6890. There won't always be a program on all 4 channels but there will be something on at least one or two you can use to peak your dish.
Ok, I have a question that's relevant to the discussion. Can I put an HH USALS motor (ku dish) on the other side of a G-box?
Amiko A3 --> G-box --> HH USALS ??
I'm not worried about the switches or LNBFs for now, I just need to know if I can run the USALS motor through the G-box without burning out anything.
Amiko A3 --> G-box --> HH USALS ??
I'm not worried about the switches or LNBFs for now, I just need to know if I can run the USALS motor through the G-box without burning out anything.
DiSEqC pass-through and motor current draw are two different issues. We will be discussing this exact subject on this week's Satellite Nation show! Wednesday night 8pm EDT/5pm PDT on satelliteGuys Radio and Access America RAdio on Galaxy 19 KU (if you get the motor situation ironed out)... 
The G-box will pass DiSEqC signals. USALS is a type of DiSEqC signalling and it is an audio signal.
I don't know the draw of your KU motor, but the G/Vbox should handle the current draw of a typical HH motor upstream.
The G-box will pass DiSEqC signals. USALS is a type of DiSEqC signalling and it is an audio signal.
I don't know the draw of your KU motor, but the G/Vbox should handle the current draw of a typical HH motor upstream.
Guys, I've acquired a 10 foot mesh dish and an 8 foot mesh dish my question is is it better to have a pad or dig hole for the pole? If you say a pad what would be the dimensions for a 10 foot mesh dish? If you say a a hole what are the dimensions for that?
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That's a little tougher. The pickings get slim down in that area of the sky. Zip code 01104 is 72W. There was a channel on c band there but it's gone now. There's 83W with PCN (Pennsylvania Cable Network). I can get that but Satbeams shows you in the next lower signal strength than me but you could still try that. It certainly makes it easier if your true south has a sat w/ signals but don't worry, my true south is 77W and there's no c band on there either but I was able to get it set up and on the arc so you can too. Really important thing is to install pole perfectly plumb, line dish/mount up as close as possible with true south (180°) and set your elevation/declination right. If you do that, when you move the dish looking for signals you will hopefully hit something off the bat and be able to fine tune from there.
Great! Can we get some pics?
Whether you dig a hole for a pole or pour a pad depends on the type of pole you use. If you are lucky enough to have a pole that has a tripod type mount at the bottom http://www.satelliteguys.us/xen/attachments/2010_may-030-jpg.88866/ then you would pour a pad with bolts that extend out of the concrete. Then all you have to do is set the tripod on the bolts, adjust them until the pole is level and tighten everything down. Makes an install pretty easy and also lets you plumb the pole again if the pad would shift in the future (this is what I have for my dish). If you just have a standard pole then you dig a hole, put the pole in and pour your concrete. Make sure the pole is perfectly level before the concrete sets (use some kind of bracing to keep it in place). It is also a very good idea to drill one or two holes through the pole and insert some long bolts or rods through it before placing it in the hole.
This will keep the pole from turning in the concrete. Make sure you go below the frost line for your area so there is less chance of shifting. As far as dimensions, like the dish, bigger is better. You don't want it moving once it is poured and you can't do it over.
Yeah like this but with lag bolts? http://www.satelliteguys.us/xen/attachments/2010_may-030-jpg.88866/
If you mean these: http://www.homedepot.com/s/lag%20bolt?NCNI-5 then no, not a good idea. You need something threaded like a bolt or threaded rod so you can make adjustments and tighten things down good. If you are pouring a new pad I would get threaded rod and put a couple of nuts with some washers between them on the end.
This with keep it from pulling out of the concrete. My concrete pad already existed so I had to drill holes with a carbide tipped drill bit and hammer drill. I used something like these: Amazon product ASIN B00914S62U and then braced it with three support rods around the pole. 
It's solid with no movement whatsoever.
Sounds good but the problem I have is I'm trying to buy a ground pole but the pole is 150.00 and the shipping is 160.00, now I don't mind paying the 150.00 for the pole but I just cant pay 160.00 for shipping. I think i'll just go and buy one of those support columns and call it a day What kind of concrete should I use?
Go to a local steel or pipe supplier, well driller, recycler, welding shop. Most I have ever paid for 12' of schedule 40 is $75.
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