DPP44 with FTA box test

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SatinKzo

Supporting Founder
Original poster
Supporting Founder
May 22, 2004
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Louisiana
Guys, I bought some dish stuff from RIRWIN1983 a while back and if you have been following the saga it looks like RIRWIN1983 is a scammer sad to say.

Anyways, I bought a Dish1000.2 with DPP LNB and DPP44 from him to keep socked away until I sign up with dish again.

Now with all the crap going down with RIRWIN, I want to test the stuff to make sure it actually works.

So my question is:

I can treat the DPP44 like a 4x4 or just like a 4x1 disecq correct? Treat each input as a diseqc input right? At least I can make sure the thing is functional on all ports.

Also, on the DPP LNB, can I treat that like a 3x1 diseqc?

Should be easy to test the DPP44, but I don't have any small dishes up so I don't know short of putting up the D1000.2 how to test the LNB.
 
The DPP44+ you would treat as diseqc 1,2,3,4 depending on what input it is to...so its in essence a 4x4 stacked version...input 1 is diseqc 1, input 2 is diseqc 2, etc

You need a stacked LNB to make it work though....if you use a KU LNB it MIGHT work on the vertical TP's since they are the same even in a non stacked market

The D1000.2 I havwe no clue but I assume the LNB is good
 
well, I guess, I should just hook up the D1000 with LNB to the DPP44 and test it out. Everything looks brand new and factory packaged, but with what this dude has pulled so far, I am just making sure. Thanks berg.

I only need to see if it functions on all ports and that the LNB sees something signal wise.
 
satin

hook the C side of your QPH to one port and see if it works. Like I say the verticals are the same for both dishpro & non dishpro (frequencies the same)...make sure to turn the box off when adding it :)

I assume you will need the power inserter added
 
ahh, good point. That'll be easy to test the 44 then. Yeah, I would have to assume the inserter would be needed, I know the 44 pulls quite a current and I would have to bet my little Trio isn't gonna have enough juice
 
I've treated a DP34 as a straight diseqc switch, and it works fine.
Within the limit that you can't pass 12/18 volts through it for polarity selection.

You might want to check over in the Dish threads, but I thought the DPP44 (perhaps only when hooked to a DPP LNB) did some funny handshaking. (?)

But, I think Iceberg is right, and strictly for the purposes of testing it, you should be able to get horizontal (+18) transponders to select through it with regular diseqc commands.
I have a guy around here who has a bunch of those, but I didn't get any due to the fact he wanted around $25, compared to $15 for DP34's.
(Those numbers are from memory and over 9 months ago , but were roughly right, then.)

I'm not up on my 44's... do they need a power inserter?
Either DP34, or (and especially) DPP44's suck a bit of juice, so as long as you are just running a test, ya might try powering 'em with your Dish receiver.
To actually use them , you'd need to review the problem a little bit more throughly.

As for the DPP LNB, it's a power hog.
Treat it as such.
 
I paid $110 total for the everything, so I figured ok, good deal. But now since Scott got involved and the Columbus PD as well as a few members here I don't want to find out a year or so from now that the stuff was DOA. Right now I can take some solice in that the little stuff he sent has been ok (functionality wise, but it might he obtained illegally). People that actually received a 622 from him seem to be ok.

For those not up on the issues, check out the thread in the classifieds and in the Operations center.
http://www.satelliteguys.us/satelli...3717-fs-dish-network-sale-10.html#post1021292
http://www.satelliteguys.us/satelliteguys-operations-center/106453-rirwin1983-scam-continue.html
 
But, I think Iceberg is right, and strictly for the purposes of testing it, you should be able to get horizontal (+18) transponders to select through it with regular diseqc commands.

I'm not up on my 44's... do they need a power inserter?
Either DP34, or (and especially) DPP44's suck a bit of juice, so as long as you are just running a test, ya might try powering 'em with your Dish receiver.
To actually use them , you'd need to review the problem a little bit more throughly.

As for the DPP LNB, it's a power hog.
Treat it as such.

you mean verticals :)
H is bandstacked

and yes you need the power inserter..the 44 runs on external power...the 34 does not
 
Thanks guys for the input earlier. I just decided to go to a friends place after I remembered he had a D1000 and a DPP44 setup. I just swapped my LNB with his and put my 44 in the setup. Everything luckily is working as it should.
 
not to hijack a thread but could someone provide more info (or point me in the direction) on the DP34?

A co-worker of mine moved recently and gave me a DP34. Its just sitting in the basement but I'd like to know what (if any) FTA use i can get with it.

Does it require certain LNBs (stacked) or can regualr linear/circular be used?

If bandstacked, can I use this for a Cband setup?

17K B1 SAT Stack C-Band LNBF without Scalar

I guess the single lnb out on these types of lnbs just confuse me :)
 
you mean verticals :)
H is bandstacked
When I wrote that, I was thinking how the DPP44 runs on 20+ volts, and -only- put out maybe 18..20v all the time.
That would put a stock FTA LNB permanently into H mode, only.
So, testing such a switch in an all-FTA system would be tricky.

Sounds like SatinKzo did the right thing, and tested his toys in an all-Dish system.
I'm not too surprised that everything works.
Especially if it looked new/wrapped.



I have a spare DP34, but keep forgetting to get in touch with the guy with the DP LNBs.
From all the encouraging posts on this forum, I'm anxious to run a few.
 
not to hijack a thread but could someone provide more info (or point me in the direction) on the DP34?

A co-worker of mine moved recently and gave me a DP34. Its just sitting in the basement but I'd like to know what (if any) FTA use i can get with it.

Does it require certain LNBs (stacked) or can regualr linear/circular be used?
It would require bandstacked LNB's to work properly. It will work with a Legacy LNB (non bandstacked) but only the verticals would wok right. They are the same frequency regardless.
If bandstacked, can I use this for a Cband setup?
yep would work fine
I guess the single lnb out on these types of lnbs just confuse me :)

all transponders are vertical. The LNB LO on a KU Bandstacked is 10.750/13.850..the H polarity TP's get converted to the higher frequencies and made V...so you can use a sat splitter to run multiple boxes with no issues.

As an example, if the TP is 12000 V it stays the same...if its 12000 H it turns into 15100 V...I know...looks weird :)
 
Ice and Anole,

Thanks for the info! I read some more on the thread listed and I've got a few questions:

1) Has anyone figured out if using stacked lnbs w/DP34 is better that using reg lnbs with 22mz/disqec in reference to power/signal loss (this question was mentioned in the old thread)?

2) How does the FSS stacked lnbs measure up to Sadoun/invacom/fortec/geosat? Is there a noticable loss between the two?

3) 119/121 feedhorn: can you replace the 119 circular with a FSS. Wouldn't this allow 2 deg separation on a FTA dish. Also, can you use invacom flange lnbs on this feedhorn therefore being able to get 2 deg sep on a normal fta system (i.e 72/74 on my channelmaster 84e :) ). Has anyone tried this feedhorn on a Toridal?
 
If you really want to pursue this, we might need to break off and make a new thread, starting somewhere above... :)

3). That's 2º separation on the SuperDish, with its specs.
The degrees of separation on -your- chosen dish, might be different.
In other words, this much spacing is not 2º everywhere.

2). best I can read between the lines, they're probably rated 0.7db.
But that may be for the circular LNBs, not the linear ones.
(with the requirements of the birds, and small dishes, one might make the argument they need to be 0.4db)
In other words, whoever knows, isn't telling. :rolleyes:

1). hard to say. I do know that if what you need is a -lot- of receivers, the 34's and 44's will cascade to at least three units, giving 12 outputs to 12 receivers.
You have to believe they're amplified, so all receivers would get the same signal level, regardless of how many were driven.

There have been other posts on band-stacked LNBs and switches in the past, but they just haven't become too popular.
Understanding them seems to be a bit of a problem, too.
And they don't necessarily give any advantage to someone needing only a few LNBs or few receivers.

I really like the Eagle Aspen band-stacked C-band LNBf.
It could be integrated into a maze of other Ku band LNBs and switches, seamlessly.
Sadoun seems to carry it, here it's listed with the scaler, but also available without.

edit:
And you might also look for other posts by JerryT
He seems to be currently having a fit with 'em! :)

Oh, and best of all, the Dish/Eagle FSS bandstacked LNBs are Standard, not Universal.
So, I know someone who will like them. :rolleyes:
 
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I've been looking into the Stacked c band myself. What i am trying to figure out about it is two things:
1) how does it affect analog feeds (same question for the FSS stacked)
2) is it the only "dual" cband lnb out there for a "standard" fta setup

I'd also like to know how well it matches with the BSC621. Since its on a small dish (1.2m), i need all the quality I can get :)
 
1. any horizontal feed will be screwed because of the different frequency. Its just like when someone uses a Universal LNB on KU...the LNB LO is off and therefore the frequency is off

V polarities will be fine as the LNB LO Is 5150
but H is off and you wouldnt get that on any analog or 4DTV box
 
If you're insisting on 4DTV or Analog, forget the bandstacked technology.
It is just way over the head of those old receivers.
They tune 950-1450, but a stacked LNB needs 950-2100mhz.
(frequency range is approximate, and from memory, so do not quote)

Since one of the 621 family works fine with the old hardware, I'll assume any comparison is unnecessary at this point.

As for 1.2m, I think you are on the bleeding edge...
If ya had a bigger dish, you'd have the gain and beamwidth necessary to do the job right.
Kinda like driving across the country in a car with a couple of missing spark plugs.
Ya might get there, but it'll be a hell of an adventure! :eek:
 
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