F/D Ratio .278 LBN Seeking

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Robert_W

SatelliteGuys Family
Original poster
Jan 23, 2009
109
0
SE Iowa
3M Winegard 10 ft.

I have just purchased the whole assembly. I have to go get it. The person sold the whole unit with reciever, feed, arm, antenna, and even the concrete with pole.
I have to travel 60 miles to get it home and wonder what is best way to transport it, via a old travel trailer's frame.
Shall I leave it whole or shall I dismantle the segmints of the dish, to transport it???
Also, if the reciever is analog, is there a way to convert it? I have a Coolsat 5000, and do not know if it will be able to move it via USUALS in this system.
I also notice that the C-Band has a DVB, will that require a different set-up for this Dish?
 
THe analog receiver pretty much could be used for a dish mover. I dont know what you mean by "converted"
The Coolsat 5000 would work but you need a G-Box...this would take the place of the analog receiver moving the dish
DVB is what the CS5000 gets so it will work just finr for free C-Band programming
 
Alright, so my USUALS will work through the G-Box? So from my Coolsat 5000 to DiSqiC switch line 3 to my KU's SG2100, and line 2 to my C's G-Box? Or shall I just move everything to my 3M dish?
 
G-box/V-Box only works with Diseqc 1.2 and not USALS. CS5000 would work with it fine

I would personally move everything to the 10 footer or get a second receiver for the C-Band setup. Some folks have tried 1 receiver for both a KU setup & C-Band setup (2 separate setups) and have had major issues with the receiver communicating to both
 
OK, I still have that Viewsat 360 Primier, I could run the 10 footer with that???
Also, when you got your larger antennies, did you dismantled it or carried it with the panels all attached????
 
yes that would work too (again with the G-Box to move the dish)

my dishes were in panels when I got them (both the 6 footers). Had a 10 footer a few years ago and that I dismantled in pieces and loaded that into the back of the truck
 
The Gbox 3000 was favorably reviewed on the forum, here.
I bought one, on the strength of that discussion.
Link to the product @ Sadoun, in my signature--->

edit:
Oh, and it was suggested to me when I got my dishes, to bring along a can of PBblaster.
You spray it on the corroded hardware, to help break it free.
I was impressed with the product.
 
The 10' Winegard breaks down fairly easily into panels; that's probably the way to go for transporting if you're careful, because some have had troubles getting the channels to line up on reassembly. Mine was easy to put back together.

I agree the GBOX is the best available controller. However I would caution against using the Winegard for both C and Ku. The Winegard is a very deep dish, and while it is a top performer, it can be difficult to match feeds designed for shallower dishes. In particular the Ku sections of dual feeds don't seem well suited for this type of dish. They will work, but you may end up with less than what you would get on a smaller, dedicated Ku dish. Are you planning to use the feed that came with the Winegard or update it?

I don't have a Coolsat, so others will have better info on how well that works in a dual dish setup. I've never had a problem with DiSEqC switches for multiple dishes, and I have a lot strung together. I believe your proposed arrangement will be fine.
 
I believe the Winegards are similar to the Perfect 10s, and if so, they easily come apart in four panels. As Anole suggested, you may need to use unfreezing compound to get the bolts apart.
 
I have just purchased the whole assembly. I have to go get it. The person sold the whole unit with reciever, feed, arm, antenna, and even the concrete with pole.
I have to travel 60 miles to get it home and wonder what is best way to transport it, via a old travel trailer's frame.
Shall I leave it whole or shall I dismantle the segmints of the dish, to transport it???
Also, if the reciever is analog, is there a way to convert it? I have a Coolsat 5000, and do not know if it will be able to move it via USUALS in this system.
I also notice that the C-Band has a DVB, will that require a different set-up for this Dish?

It would not hurt to mark everything with masking tape... I don't know how the LNB is on that dish, but if you remove it make special note of exactly where it is...Use a magic marker if necessary...Not all of these come apart, or should I say go back together easily. Mine is an absolute bugger to put together. Each mesh panel falls out when disassembled. If yours is like that it will take two people to put it back together:) My LNB is mounted like this.
sat101.jpg
if yours is too, that part will be a snap
 
Well Yesterday I got it home!!! Had a back hoe and poled it off the pole-mass. It fell and one panel got about a 5 inch gash. But turn it so the mounting was up and put it on trailer and carried it home (after taken off the buttonhook)
Well I got the actuator, Winegaurd Satellite Reciever SC-7037S, and a General Instrument Videocipher II.
To fix the panel? I have sheet metal, will that work?
It is a buttonhook, and want to replace the feedhorn and Lbn's. Sall I go with the C/KU and get rid of the 90cm? What is recommended?
I think I can use the winegard SC-7037S as a dish mover, would I just run my RG6 from the lnb to my coolsat 5000?
 
Pendragon suggested is to have two different set-ups, because of F/D.
OK, My KU set-up is 90cm, sg-2100, lnb Invacom QPH-031, and CS 5000 Platinum.

How shall I do from 10ft? (on a button hook) from antenna to all the way to which reciever?
 
If it still works the SC-7037S may function as a dish mover and polarity switcher, however you're unlikely to find much either that or the GI can pickup. Almost everything up there is digital and the receivers' time has passed. The GBOX that Anole suggested is a much better option for moving the dish in the long term, as it will interface to most modern receivers, including the Coolsat. However it will not select polarity if the Winegard feed is a corotor design.

In terms of repair, you may be able to sew up the gash with some wire. It doesn't have to look pretty. If you use some sheet metal to hold it straight, put that on the backside of the dish.

My gut feeling is your 90cm is going to do as well or better on Ku than a combo C/Ku feed on a deep dish like the Winegard. Your Coolsat should be able to connect to both dishes through DiSEqC or multiswitches. The choices depend on whether you use both circular and linear polarizations from the Invacom and what type of feed is on the Winegard. It may be worth updating the Winegard feed to make this integrate better.
 
Well, I want a whole new system for this. Starting at the !0 ft dish to the buttonhook, from buttonhook to > ?,,, and end up with the SV 360 Premier.
I think I can use the Actuator that came with this dish.
I will purchase the Gbox,,,,
LNBF - GEOSATpro C-BAND SINGLE ,,,,,,,,,suggestable use? or check for another type?
 
I got a F/D Ratio of .278, and looking for a C-Band LNB. All round LNB for all of the C-Band Circular and Liniar.
http://www.wsidigital.com/DMX241-BOTTOM2.jpg

I was looking at this picture, and it has numbers but could not make sense for F/D on this scale. (Winegard 10' Pinnacle dish with a buttonhook.)

This dish had a chaparral and do not know if it works, and ran into a Winegard Satellite System ?transformer?, then to reciever. (1987 design and most likily installed then too)

I do not know how to load pictures up in this forum, to show what is it that to explain.
 
The DMX241 will do linear or circular C-band, but not both at the same time. You have to manually insert/remove the dielectric plate from the feed to switch between the two. Don't get hung up on doing circular C-band out of the gate. There are only a few satellites with C-band linear, but far more with linear. There are solutions for doing both at the same time, but all have compromises.

Using something like the DMX241 is likely going to be easier in the long run because your Coolsat can control its polarity directly. The original Chaparral would be a headache as most modern receivers cannot adjust its rotor position. I haven't tried the DMX241, so others will need to comment on how well it works. Like many currently available feeds, it wasn't intended for use on very deep dishes like the Pinnacle. If you can extrapolate its f/D scale to 0.278 and the scalar ring can be pushed back far enough, that would probably make a good starting point.

I tried a few feed combinations and settled on a single ortho feed for my Pinnacle with separate LNBs. This is a far more expensive proposition that cost around $250. I could have saved some with lower cost LNBs, but I wanted the higher performance. I still had to modify the feed for the Winegard's f/D. I'm very happy with this, but I would hesitate to recommend it to a first-timer unless you are very demanding or a perfectionist.
 
Pendragon (or anyone else),
Feed me more about the feedhorn and lnb. I want to get it erected and fine tune in all that I can.
Might need to do a mesh replacement,,, the gash I had was patched, but very disoreanted is the 5 SQ inches.
Notice the Dish Mover housing was rusted up at the throat of the shaft,,, might think of investing in a new actuator,,, but is there any that run off the new recievers? Or are they all analog?

Added:
I checked the actuator and it works,,,, pulled the cover off the base and all the rust came out. hooked up the winegard reciever and took it for a tour. ran in and out with no binding.
 
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