New user - old Birdview

I've ordered the LNBF and receiver. Thanks very much to all of you who helped me out! I will continue here once I have made some progress.
 
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I've ordered the LNBF and receiver. Thanks very much to all of you who helped me out! I will continue here once I have made some progress.
I'm back sooner than I had anticipated. Here's a picture of the gear box. It has a helipot precision potentiometer and plastic (nylon?) gears. I expected metal.

There's still the other half of the box yet to be opened. IMG_0404.jpeg
 
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I'm back sooner than I had anticipated. Here's a picture of the gear box. It has a helipot precision potentiometer and plastic (nylon?) gears. I expected metal.

There's still the other half of the box yet to be opened.View attachment 181943

Like the rest of the hardware on the Birdview, welcome to "old school", original install, components from the 1980's.

Do you still have the original positioner controller to power and move the motor? You could upgrade the multi-turn potentiometer to either an optical sensor or reed switch, but really the 1st question is how you plan on controlling the dish position?
 
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That's normal, those used nylon gears. Probably a 10k 10-turn pot. Not worth trying to convert to reed switch.
Yes, I'm pretty sure I have the original box that moved the dish. Can I find it is another question.

I've been assuming that if I did get the dish movement motorized again that I would use the original controller. But I haven't been very hopeful about that being doable. I've mostly figured that I would just leave it pointed at one satellite. But those nylon gears look to be in good shape. I'll keep messing around with it. It looks like it's going to take some doing just to get the rest of the mounting cleaned and lubed enough to move at all all, which I probably have to do anyway, unless it happens to be aimed at a satisfactory satellite now.

I've got room enough so it might be more expedient to look for more old dishes to add later.
 
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I thought you said the original house and all was gone. Anyhow, I doubt you'd want to use anything but a newer actuator/positioner with reed sensor
 
The original stuff is in a box in a shop building. It's a bit of a mess

That looks nice. What is that sensor, exactly?
Never one to throw out potentially usable stuff. Telstar kind of hit a bone.
If it makes sense at all. If you can get the gearbox and actuator tube running good. Seeing that a potentiometer is in fact a positive feedback device that would provide an ancient dish mover without memory storage a positional signal. Meaning an analog to digital converter could change a resistance value to a numerical value on a display where you would then look for a satellite at position X from a cheat sheet.
Perhaps with limited memory slot storage.
Whereas a pulse generator like a reed switch with sector magnet triggers, hall devices with magnet wheel. Or like I'm using, an optical interrupter with slotted wheel. I believe the successor to potentiometer type feedback.

Thinking I have this subject splattered here and there on satguys. This is an experiment. You don't even know if and when you get your dish up and working. If scanning more than one satellite is feasible where you live. And a new, in the box actuator is going to be expensive. I really don't even know your level of mechancal/electrical skills. But the enthusiasm is tops. As well as your "getting your guns loaded" great questions.

I said that a very cheap but old dish mover could be had from eBay. Just a stand-alone unit that would drive the dish. Most I see use a reed switch. Twenty bucks.
The Amazon Arduino kits can even be found with interrupter wheels. For a few bucks. All you would need to do it pull the potentiometer from your gearbox. Fashion up a way to mount the optical wheel. Build a bracket to mount an optical switch. And providing you have a 3 wire cable for the sensor at the motor and inside. The rest is easy. Maybe dig up an old wall wart charger to give the optical sensor juice.

And looking at the schematic from one of the Amazon kits. Know anything about electronics? Well, take a peek.
In it's current configuration, OUT and ground provide a voltage that comes from Vcc when the sensor is (thinking) unblocked.
Kind of cool. But pay attention to the LM393 comparator on the optical module. Next image.


1748195704445.png


On the sensor module is the LM393 comparator IC. And it's configured as a current source. Beam is unblocked, the LED lights and voltage appears between the Out and ground (pretty sure....need more coffee. Anyway).
Below, look at Q16. Internal to the IC. Q16 is your switch. Reed switch contacts if you had one in the gearcase.
Optical wheel spinning turns the switch on and off.
Now. There are several ways to make this work. Easily. My configuration is a bit different. Uses an external solid state relay.
In the simplest form. You get the thing working in your gearcase. And snip the 10k and possibly the 1k resistors by the LED indicator.
And test with a multimeter.
No new actuator. No hunting for the right magnet. No playing around with finding a sweet spot to put a reed sensor that may or may not play nice.
You slice that light beam. You get switching action. Every single time.
And it opens the possibility at a later time to add a vbox dish mover that interfaces with a receiver to move the dish when you change satellites on the receiver.
I just spent 27 bucks of your money. Sure beats tossing the actuator for a new one. Ya' think?

View attachment 181984
 

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