Paraclipse H-to-H Reed Sensor Replacement

[stogie5150]

Ok y'all. Linuxman and I had a little conversation yesterday afternoon, and we both decided I'd need to post some pics of what I have. We had a lightening storm about a month ago and my dish stopped counting.

I took the cover off and had a look. looks like the wires go to the top side of the motor, underneath the silver colored cover. Problem is, I cannot figure out how to get that cover off without removing the motor. And it looks like the motor and the gearbox do separate ( see photo from the bottom, four screws), But if I do that the dish is gonna flop over, so I guess I would need to run the dish down and support it somehow. Sound okay so far?

Take a look at the pics and tell me what ya think, y'all!

(OH, big pics for you, Anole. Put your glasses on)

 

[linuxman]

Okay,

Where does the white card with the two glass reed-sensor switches mount?

BTW, the white card contains the switches.

 

[Anole]

Yea, I would like to know where the count-sensor wires go to in your motor.
I have a feeling they don't go to that white PC board with the two reed switches on it.
I wonder if maybe those are end-limit sensors?

Pix are much better than previous 640x480 shots - thanks :up

 

[gabshere]

I wonder if maybe those are end-limit sensors?

i suspect this also limit switches

the small block wires probably goto the reed switch in the motor probably has a magnet wheel there too

 

[1captain]

Stogie, if that is a Von Weise motor, the read switch an the magnet wheel is in the cover where all the wires go in, sitting right on top, lot of small plastic gears in their also. now that cover should slid off after you remove the 3 srews on the back of it, now you should not have to remove the motor just to change that switch. an if I can recall the last sensor I changed I think i repaced it with a HTS reed switch. also that motor looks the same as what was used on the 12 foot Cosmo H to H mount.

 

[stogie5150]

Stogie, if that is a Von Weise motor, the read switch an the magnet wheel is in the cover where all the wires go in, sitting right on top, lot of small plastic gears in their also. now that cover should slid off after you remove the 3 srews on the back of it, now you should not have to remove the motor just to change that switch. an if I can recall the last sensor I changed I think i repaced it with a HTS reed switch. also that motor looks the same as what was used on the 12 foot Cosmo H to H mount.

It is a Von Weise, and if you look in the fourth pic, at the very top there is a tab cast into the mount itself that holds the motor at the top, preventing the cover from coming off. You can remove the screw, but the tab sticks over the cover on the motor.

Okay,

Where does the white card with the two glass reed-sensor switches mount?

BTW, the white card contains the switches.

None of the cards mount anywhere, they just kinda float around in there. Actually its the one card and the terminal strip that mates the count sensor wires together, upper left of the third pic.

Yea, I would like to know where the count-sensor wires go to in your motor.
I have a feeling they don't go to that white PC board with the two reed switches on it.
I wonder if maybe those are end-limit sensors?

Pix are much better than previous 640x480 shots - thanks :up

I am assuming that the count wires are the two brown wires going into the motor, they are hooked to the sensor wires in the third picture, upper left. I think its a orange and a yellow wire hooked into the two brown wires, and they go directly into the motor. Nothing to do with the PC board, as far as I can see.

Glad ya like the pics better.


I'll tell you this fellas, I do not think I want to take this motor/gearbox apart, I do NOT have the understanding necessary to put humpty dumpty back together. And if I break something, GAME OVER. There are NO parts for this should I break something...

I am gonna have to tread VERY carefully here.

 

[Mauiguy]

Ok y'all. Linuxman and I had a little conversation yesterday afternoon, and we both decided I'd need to post some pics of what I have. We had a lightening storm about a month ago and my dish stopped counting.

I took the cover off and had a look. looks like the wires go to the top side of the motor, underneath the silver colored cover. Problem is, I cannot figure out how to get that cover off without removing the motor. And it looks like the motor and the gearbox do separate ( see photo from the bottom, four screws), But if I do that the dish is gonna flop over, so I guess I would need to run the dish down and support it somehow. Sound okay so far?

Take a look at the pics and tell me what ya think, y'all!

(OH, big pics for you, Anole. Put your glasses on)

I am not sure if I am offering the correct information, but I do have some pictures that might show where sensor switches are located.

I have not looked inside of my H to H mount very thoroughly, so I can only offer what was in one of the installation manuals I received.

 

[stogie5150]

I am not sure if I am offering the correct information, but I do have some pictures that might show where sensor switches are located.

I have not looked inside of my H to H mount very thoroughly, so I can only offer what was in one of the installation manuals I received.

If you look at the Pics Mauiguy, mine is NOTHING like that. the book is the first place i looked, and my book, like the files you posted, do NOT match at all. What I have is either an older or a newer model, probably older, because I have paper work that says the dish was installed in 1985.

 

[Mauiguy]

If you look at the Pics Mauiguy, mine is NOTHING like that. the book is the first place i looked, and my book, like the files you posted, do NOT match at all. What I have is either an older or a newer model, probably older, because I have paper work that says the dish was installed in 1985.

Be back in a few minutes, gonna see if i can pull the cover on my mount for comparison

 

[1captain]

Ok Stogie just look at the picture agin an see that mounting tap, an by the way it looks on you're mount that tap is in the way, an maybe the one next to it to lift the cover up. you will need to either remove or lousen up the motor to pull that end cover off. now I just came from my shop an have the same motor their an pull the 3 screws an mine has got a 4-magnet wheel right on top of like a gear reduction that runs the magnet wheel an the sensor wires are cream in color. now that cover needs to be lifted staight up about 2 inches to clear all the plastic gears.

Now if you got to pull that motor an the gear box just to change the reed switch what a bad design, I would have some one their to hold you're dish then take the motor off it mounting plate, then remove the cover with the 3-screws. now if that was my dish I would cut that tap off an grind it flush an make a bracket to support that end of the motor by bolting the home made bracket to you're plate, so you don't have to go tru this agin.

Good luck Stogie hope it helps.

 

[Mauiguy]

Be back in a few minutes, gonna see if i can pull the cover on my mount for comparison

When I first read your message I did not even read your name as poster. I apoplgize for resending stuff. It must have seemed like I was being a real smart A**

I just took a look at my mount and motor. It looks almost the same as yours. The motor looks the same as yours does but at the top where the wires go inside, i have five wires. Two for the motor, and three for the sensor.

I think your basic plan running the dish down and then supporting it to relieve the load on the chain would be a good cautionary method.

I suspect that the gear box is fairly simple with a worm drive, that turns the pinion gear which actually moves the dish. If that is the case, you might be able to remove the motor at almost any position.

Having said that, I would probably go to it the way you mentioned for peace of mind if nothing else.

Lastly, regarding the four motor screws: I strongly suspect you have already thought of this, but I would only remove the two screws that go in to the motor side. I suspect that I am stating the obvious, but I would approach it cautiously as you have already stated.

 

[stogie5150]

Ok Stogie just look at the picture agin an see that mounting tap, an by the way it looks on you're mount that tap is in the way, an maybe the one next to it to lift the cover up. you will need to either remove or lousen up the motor to pull that end cover off. now I just came from my shop an have the same motor their an pull the 3 screws an mine has got a 4-magnet wheel right on top of like a gear reduction that runs the magnet wheel an the sensor wires are cream in color. now that cover needs to be lifted staight up about 2 inches to clear all the plastic gears.

Now if you got to pull that motor an the gear box just to change the reed switch what a bad design, I would have some one their to hold you're dish then take the motor off it mounting plate, then remove the cover with the 3-screws. now if that was my dish I would cut that tap off an grind it flush an make a bracket to support that end of the motor by bolting the home made bracket to you're plate, so you don't have to go tru this agin.

Good luck Stogie hope it helps.

Being a former shipfitter, I think that's what I will do. Break out the cutting wheel and cut that tab off, and clearance the other one as needed. I do NOT want to dissassemble that motor/gearbox, fellas, I USE this dish every day, and, unlike Linuxman, I don't have a roof full of c-band backups....LOL

We're supposed to get some wind and rain from Ike the next few days, so I won't get to it for awhile. But when I do more pics await.

When I first read your message I did not even read your name as poster. I apoplgize for resending stuff. It must have seemed like I was being a real smart A**

I just took a look at my mount and motor. It looks almost the same as yours. The motor looks the same as yours does but at the top where the wires go inside, i have five wires. Two for the motor, and three for the sensor.

I think your basic plan running the dish down and then supporting it to relieve the load on the chain would be a good cautionary method.

I suspect that the gear box is fairly simple with a worm drive, that turns the pinion gear which actually moves the dish. If that is the case, you might be able to remove the motor at almost any position.

Having said that, I would probably go to it the way you mentioned for peace of mind if nothing else.

Lastly, regarding the four motor screws: I strongly suspect you have already thought of this, but I would only remove the two screws that go in to the motor side. I suspect that I am stating the obvious, but I would approach it cautiously as you have already stated.

It looks like the motor is attached to some sort of bracket too, requiring removal of all four screws. And I really don't wanna do that. I took apart a linear actuator one time and I NEVER got it back together where it would work again. I DON'T want that to happen to this dish...

 

[gabshere]

It looks like the motor is attached to some sort of bracket too, requiring removal of all four screws. And I really don't wanna do that. I took apart a linear actuator one time and I NEVER got it back together where it would work again. I DON'T want that to happen to this dish...

well i'm sure we can get it back together

Being a former shipfitter, I think that's what I will do. Break out the cutting wheel and cut that tab off

this tab probably a backup safegurad incase the motor slips upward it probably helps hold it down and in place.

probably much like the pdf files shows on the newer motor. this motor probably once loosened will lean out and probably just slide out ( upward) but i can only guess

 

[Mauiguy]

It looks like the motor is attached to some sort of bracket too, requiring removal of all four screws. And I really don't wanna do that. I took apart a linear actuator one time and I NEVER got it back together where it would work again. I DON'T want that to happen to this dish...[/quote]


Stogie,

I had some time today and pulled my mount out of the shed. I removed the screw at the rear of the motor which secures it to that little bracket.

I then took out the four screws that hold the gear drive to the motor. I figured that I should be able to get enough play to pull the motor back from the gear box.

There was not enough play to do that. It also felt like there was some resistance to separation of the gear box over near that set screw that has the lock nut on it. So, I removed that too. However I could still not get enough play to lift the motor past that bracket at the rear of the motor.

My next thought was that maybe I could remove the entire gear box and motor from the mount as an assembly. When you look at your photo that shows the gear box screws, there are three legs that go into the mount. These are the ones I thought I might be able to get at via the three access holes in the bottom of the mount.

However access directly to the nuts seems to be blocked by the chain.

In looking at the entire thing again, I think that the little bracket only adds a little stability to the motor and gear box assxembly. If you were to grind it off as was previously discussed, you could no doubt use a little piece of "L" shaped aluminum and fabricate a new bracket.

I just could not find an easy way of getting in to that setup without almost disassembling the entire mount.

Hope this keeps you from going thru too much hassle.

 

[stogie5150]

Got the cover off. Cut the tab with my sawzall...took the screws out...off it came. Pics shortly.

Okay here are the pics...the sensor has all kinds of lettering on it, the second pic was my attempt at taking a pic of that lettering. Ended up being a blurry picture. LOL

Okay so where do I get a sensor?

Second edit....beofre I buttoned it back up I got the info off of it...it read as follows

Type 50F 3 QTR85
No Closed Loop UL

 

[Anole]

Whoa! Now, that's a heck of a camera! -

I forgot why you needed one.
The old one failed after a storm?
Since it's encased in a molded blob, I guess you'd want an identical mechanical replacement.
Shame, 'cause a standard glass reed switch could probably be stuck in there with a big gob of chewing gum! -
And if you found the brand that'd turn to stone in a few years, you'd have a permanent fix.

Truth is, I haven't lately been able to find any reeds around anywhere.
Used to be as common as dirt at Radio Shack, in their parts bins and in their home security area.

Linuxman seems to have had some luck finding such things.
Maybe a bit of internet searching...?
Who/where would I suggest? All the electronic part sellers like:
- Digi-Key Corporation
- Mouser Electronics

Oh, and it looks like a four-magnet wheel.
Not sure where in the gear train that's mounted, so it may be quite accurate.
However , if you need more counts between birds for Ku, taking a page out of Linuxman's book and changing the wheel is the next step.
So, consider any change to the magnets, and how to mount a replacement reed as a single problem.

 

[stogie5150]

Whoa! Now, that's a heck of a camera! -

I forgot why you needed one.
The old one failed after a storm?
Since it's encased in a molded blob, I guess you'd want an identical mechanical replacement.
Shame, 'cause a standard glass reed switch could probably be stuck in there with a big gob of chewing gum! -
And if you found the brand that'd turn to stone in a few years, you'd have a permanent fix.

Truth is, I haven't lately been able to find any reeds around anywhere.
Used to be as common as dirt at Radio Shack, in their parts bins and in their home security area.

Linuxman seems to have had some luck finding such things.
Maybe a bit of internet searching...?
Who/where would I suggest? All the electronic part sellers like:
- Digi-Key Corporation
- Mouser Electronics

Oh, and it looks like a four-magnet wheel.
Not sure where in the gear train that's mounted, so it may be quite accurate.
However , if you need more counts between birds for Ku, taking a page out of Linuxman's book and changing the wheel is the next step.
So, consider any change to the magnets, and how to mount a replacement reed as a single problem.

Oh it had plenty of accuracy, green one. No more magnets needed. I had 15-20 counts from one side of a satellite to the other....

I have no idea what they even are, much less how it works, although I have a general idea.

If ANY switch will work, I can find one, they are everywhere on the net.

And the camera is a 5 MP Canon A95, IIRC. set on automatic because I don't understand what all the 5000 functions it does actually DO.
I figured out macro, and how to turn the flash on and off, and how to change the resolution so Green Lizards don't complain about tiny pictures.

 

[linuxman]

Oh it had plenty of accuracy, green one. No more magnets needed. I had 15-20 counts from one side of a satellite to the other....

I have no idea what they even are, much less how it works, although I have a general idea.

If ANY switch will work, I can find one, they are everywhere on the net.

And the camera is a 5 MP Canon A95, IIRC. set on automatic because I don't understand what all the 5000 functions it does actually DO.
I figured out macro, and how to turn the flash on and off, and how to change the resolution so Green Lizards don't complain about tiny pictures.

Well today may be your lucky day!

I may have an OEM sensor for you from Von-Weise. The little package tag says it's for a V76-301 but should work fine on your assembly.

You can see the 50F number on mine, the rest is the date of Manufacturer I think.

Take a look. It was new in the package when I pulled it out for the camera.

I have an assortment as you can see, so look at all of them.

 

[stogie5150]

Well the motor IS a VonWeise, so that would make sense.... wonder if the old 18" actuator that came off my old dish has one in it...

I found one...20 bucks...

dang found one here for 9.99...this might be easier that I thought!

http://www.thesatelliteshop.net/reed-sensor-switch-v76301-reed-replacement-for-v7610-p-112.html

 

[stogie5150]

Well the motor IS a VonWeise, so that would make sense.... wonder if the old 18" actuator that came off my old dish has one in it...

I found one...20 bucks...

dang found one here for 9.99...this might be easier that I thought!

Reed Sensor Switch V76-301 ( Reed Replacement for V76-10) [V76-301] - $9.99 : The Satellite Shop, Satellite Dish Equipment - TV Programming

Ordered up...now the wait begins...stay tuned kiddies....