No I just thought I would run the cable From the chimney threw my window to the front of the roof down to my window and to the tv
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RCA 751R yagi outdoor antenna
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Cable doesn't pass through siding, wood or glass without a hole of some sort. If your plan was to close the window on the cable, you may need a special flat cable and a couple more connectors and couplers. Coming up through the floor or down from an attic is preferred to drilling a hole in the side of a home or window frame.
Bringing the cable in through a soffet vent or crawlspace access hole can save some drilling.
As for my so called non answers
I am doing this on the spot with no plan but I just found out my roomate
Had the house wired with RG 58 in
Both outlets so change of plans
So now I see a difference my roommate is running the cable from
The antenna to the back of the house to the the rg 58 in the back of the house
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I am doing this on the spot with no plan but I just found out my roomate
Had the house wired with RG 58 in
Both outlets so change of plans
So now I see a difference my roommate is running the cable from
The antenna to the back of the house to the the rg 58 in the back of the house
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Let's hope he used RB59, RG58 is 50 ohm, you need 75 ohm RG59.
RG59 is a little bit more lossy than RG6 but for short runs it will do.
RG59 is a little bit more lossy than RG6 but for short runs it will do.
We are going to run RG6 from the antenna to the input in back of the house we’re the RG 58 plus in is located connect the rg58 plus to the rg6 with a adopter
$30.54
MPD Digital RF UHF VHF HF coaxial cable SMA male to N female pitail extension adapter Coax RG-58, 20 inches
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$30.54
MPD Digital RF UHF VHF HF coaxial cable SMA male to N female pitail extension adapter Coax RG-58, 20 inches
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RG58 is not suitable for carrying OTA (or cable or satellite TV) signals unless used with matching transformers at both ends to make up for the impedance difference that Jim5506 correctly noted. This mismatch will also make using splitters and couplers a big problem as most F connectors and splitters are also 75 ohm. Understanding the importance of impedance matching involves an understanding of the Physics of power transfer but suffice it to say that a mismatch will significantly degrade the signal levels and likely create some nasty reflections within the cabling.
A fairly definitive guide to the RG designations is here: Coaxial Cable Specifications Cables Chart - RF Cafe
Please check the inside wiring again to confirm what is there. RG59 is what was used for TV up until about 30 years ago when cable TV had a lot fewer channels (many OTA installations before that used 300 ohm "twinlead"). The chart I linked to includes the outside diameters of the cables so if you can't read the markings, you should be able to measure the diameter and figure out what's in place (RG59 is just shy of 1/4" in OD).
A fairly definitive guide to the RG designations is here: Coaxial Cable Specifications Cables Chart - RF Cafe
Please check the inside wiring again to confirm what is there. RG59 is what was used for TV up until about 30 years ago when cable TV had a lot fewer channels (many OTA installations before that used 300 ohm "twinlead"). The chart I linked to includes the outside diameters of the cables so if you can't read the markings, you should be able to measure the diameter and figure out what's in place (RG59 is just shy of 1/4" in OD).
GOOD LUCK your guardian angel has looked out for you with other mistakes you have made. May he continue with the RG58 cable.
He says the rg 58 plus is 75 ohm
And works great with tv when he wired it 8 years ago
Until he figures out the rg58 won’t work then I will deal with it
Till then I will keep my antenna on my front porch with my new 30 FT RG6
And watch tv LOLl
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And works great with tv when he wired it 8 years ago
Until he figures out the rg58 won’t work then I will deal with it
Till then I will keep my antenna on my front porch with my new 30 FT RG6
And watch tv LOLl
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Last edited:
He is wrong.
This is really only useful if he was receiving the Canadian stations eight years ago.
As I said, you can verify what the cable actually is by measuring the diameter of its jacket. Calipers are best, but a tape measure or ruler will do.
I know your right
When he try’s and fails then we can run rg6
It is his house so I got to let him try and fail
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When he try’s and fails then we can run rg6
It is his house so I got to let him try and fail
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You could plan ahead and avoid failure altogether but that's apparently not your style and you're clearly in no hurry to obtain a permanent solution.
Ok everyone I went to the basement just now took a few pictures
Here is the wireing
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This is all TV cable (one might even be RG6 quad shield). You should be good to go but for the fact that the signal is being split four ways.
The connector on the upper left wasn't done right as the sleeve isn't swaged all the way on (it may not have been crimped at all).
The middle port in the upper row of three is the splitter input. It is also important to know that this splitter is not power-passing so if you find that you need a pre-amp, you'll have to swap the splitter out for one that passes DC power.
The connector on the upper left wasn't done right as the sleeve isn't swaged all the way on (it may not have been crimped at all).
The middle port in the upper row of three is the splitter input. It is also important to know that this splitter is not power-passing so if you find that you need a pre-amp, you'll have to swap the splitter out for one that passes DC power.
Thanks harshness
I went down to the basement it was dark so I used the flash on my iPhone
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I went down to the basement it was dark so I used the flash on my iPhone
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Flat cables represent a compromise between optimum power transfer and getting any signal at all in through a door or window. Their loss tends to be pretty high and they have a high potential to cause reflections (leading to multipath). I've seen some newer flat cables that look more like ribbons and they may (or may not) be better than the old smashed coax cables.
